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300 WM components

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diamond hunter

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Joined
Sep 16, 2012
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Location
Goodlettsville Tennessee USA
Im trying to start finally to reload some 300 ould really like to get some advice on what the best brass,powder brand and weight and bullet weight would be and where to buy it or at least where to be on the lookout>I want to build normal hunting rounds and am only really looking for 1-2" groups at 100 yards. I like the eldx bullets. Where can I buy brass to get things going? I already have components fron a great guy on the channel but Im also looking for other sources. Ultimately,Ill load up about 500-600 rounds and move to the next caliber.Thanks friends
 
My hunting load consists of 180 gr Accubonds over 75.5 gr of RL22 in my Model 700 in 300 WinMag. Even tho the terminal velocity isn't enough for a humane kill at 1000, that recipe held a .44 MOA group at that distance when I just wanted to see what it would do. Pretty impressive for a low BC hunting bullet.
 
150g has killed a lot of deer out of mine, for Tn imo a higher weight and tougher bullet are not needed to kill whitetail deer, elk is a different story.
 
Your parameters of 1-2 moa should be pretty easy to meet, if the recoil is not a limiting factor in your shooting ability. Full disclosure, I have never owned a 300 Win mag, but I used to own its older brother, the Weatherby mag.

H4831 with 180 Accubonds is where I would start. Other good powder options would be I4350, H4350, I4831, H1000 (if you can find it), RL19, RL22 ("known" for temp instability, but good velocities), and others. Other good bullet options are 200 Accubonds, 180 or 200 Hornady Interlocks. You also mentioned ELD-X, but make sure that you go heavy for caliber with them if you hunt with them, as they will open up really quickly at magnum velocities. The 300 WM is really not too picky from what I understand, and will perform well on deer or elk with any of those.

Starline brass, when available, is a good value (good cost meets good quality).
 
I own 2 300 WinMags and 1 300 WSM.

I am a big fan of IMR7828 not the short cut. And Federal 215 and 215M primers. Use Imperial wax. There is a happy spot between too much and not enough. Experiment and find it and do not do not do not forget it. You have a (accurate repeatable) micrometer yes?

Be very careful when adjusting the FL sizing die. Belted magnums headspace from the belt. There is a common tendency when sizing the brass to not get the last 1/8th inch above the belt back into spec. This bulge will manifest itself by refusing to chamber. You then have a loaded round you cannot use. There is a tool you can acquire...check the Redding die. USE the micrometer.

Your best tool is you.

FL size ONE piece of brass and then attempt to chamber it-including closing the bolt. Remember, there should be near zero effort on your part. If you do not get it right the first try, set that brass aside and get an un-sized piece. Adjust the die and remember you can crush the shoulder in a heartbeat so that happy point of wax is important. Size the brass, test fit.

If it is good---you will know---Load up that piece of brass with a starting point powder charge and off to the range. Fire the round. Using minimal exertion on your part work the action and eject the brass. If you cannot lift the bolt or it requires too much effort, back to the die.

Yes, this is painfully slow. Its because adjusting that die is putting more of the body into the die which leaves less room for shoulder and neck. Its why all your brass should be within SAAMI length specs. BTW I use only RCBS dies.
 

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