Arrow vane question

[Vermin93]

I got a really good deal on some high quality carbon arrows, but they came with 4" vanes on them. I have only been shooting a bow for a year and I've only shot arrows with 2" vanes. Before I cut these new arrows to size, I was wondering if there's anything I should know about shooting 4" vanes vs 2" vanes.

 

[TNDeerGuy]

The 4" vane will stabilize the arrow slightly quicker, but will also slow the arrow speed down due to more surface area. However, the 2" vane (I'm assuming a Blazer) will also stabilize the arrow quick because of the high profile parabolic design, but it will not slow the arrow down as much because it doesn't have as much surface area. There also has been quite the debate since Blazers have become so popular over the effect on accuracy shooting 4" vs 2"�especially at longer distances because of the drag and speed loss of the 4" vane.

Me personally, I recommend using Blazers (if your not shooting a 600+ grain arrow), because they offer the best of both worlds�quick stabilization and low drag on speed.

 

[UTGrad]

The 4" vane will stabilize the arrow slightly quicker, but will also slow the arrow speed down due to more surface area. However, the 2" vane (I'm assuming a Blazer) will also stabilize the arrow quick because of the high profile parabolic design, but it will not slow the arrow down as much because it doesn't have as much surface area. There also has been quite the debate since Blazers have become so popular over the effect on accuracy shooting 4" vs 2"�especially at longer distances because of the drag and speed loss of the 4" vane.

Me personally, I recommend using Blazers (if your not shooting a 600+ grain arrow), because they offer the best of both worlds�quick stabilization and low drag on speed.

Good information. I've had the same question. Is there a difference when it comes to broadheads?

 

[TNDeerGuy]

The 4" vane will stabilize the arrow slightly quicker, but will also slow the arrow speed down due to more surface area. However, the 2" vane (I'm assuming a Blazer) will also stabilize the arrow quick because of the high profile parabolic design, but it will not slow the arrow down as much because it doesn't have as much surface area. There also has been quite the debate since Blazers have become so popular over the effect on accuracy shooting 4" vs 2"�especially at longer distances because of the drag and speed loss of the 4" vane.

Me personally, I recommend using Blazers (if your not shooting a 600+ grain arrow), because they offer the best of both worlds�quick stabilization and low drag on speed.

Good information. I've had the same question. Is there a difference when it comes to broadheads?

Nor really. The short/steep angled broadheads, that we all use now, really came about around the same time that Blazers became popular so it was a natural progression to change away from the large broadheads and large vanes. The advantage of small surface areas on the broadheads is that you don't have to have that large of an area on the fletching to control what the front is doing. So basically to answer your question, using the small ferrule, short/steep angled broadheads that we have now your best bet would be to use Blazers so you maximize speed while still maintaining good arrow flight characteristics.

There is a difference, or let me rephrase it....there used to be. The only time I would get away from the high parabolic fletchings, like Blazers, and go with a large vane is if you're using a large shallow angled broadhead like the old snuffers that has a large surface area. The reason is because there is a large surface area on the broadhead itself and a large vane would be needed to counter-act the forces be applied to the front of the arrow. However, I would need to test it with various arrow/broadhead/fletching setups through my chronograph and measure speed and arrow drop to get exact details on what is going on, and honestly I don't see a need to do it. If I was considering going in that direction then I would absolutely do it....kind of like patterning a turkey gun and seeing what choke works best. The

However, my BIL still is using feathers, (with 380-400 grain carbon arrows mind you) and still killing the daylights out of deer, but he also just makes sure his equipment is tuned, his arrow flight and grouping is good and doesn't get all caught up in the mechanics, even though he knows more about it than a very large portion of the archery community�there is a lot to be said about that mindset.