Arrows

bowhunter163

bowhunter163

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Anyone ever have an arrow that no matter what you do it always shoots different than the rest of them . I've tried refletching it , changing the bushing , squaring the ends , rotating the nock and refletching for spine etc ... And no matter what this particular arrow will not fly the same . Depending on where I have the nock turned and the position of the stiffest part of the spine it will either shoot 4 inches high , right, or low .

I've always known some arrows will shoot different but I guess I've always had descent luck with the difference being minimal . It is just hard to stomach paying the prices for .001 arrows and losing one right off the bat because it won't shoot . Ok I'm done whining now .
 
Yes I have. The only way of catching it is to mark shafts and keep track of what they do. Numbering them is what I do. I've ran into some brands that were worse about it than others. Easton Light Speeds would have 1 or 2 per dozen like that. Victory arrows were that way too, especially the X-Ringer HVs. Pin nocks are bad about causing arrows to do that too. Gold Tip and Black Eagle have been pretty consistent for me. I had one Gold Tip 22 that started doing it but I found the shaft had cracked from group shooting.
 
Ya I always number my arrows so I can catch stuff like that , but most of the time I can get all my arrows shooting good enough that I can't tell if the Indian made a bad shot or it was the arrow . But this one I can't get it to do anything .

I always shoot Victory x killers , never had any problems before now . I do run pin nocks , but I've tried changing bushings and nocks with no change . Lol guess I am throwing this one in the scrap box .
 
Take Crow's advice on the one flyer. Retire it. If it is caused by a crack or a weak spot in the shaft it could fail suddenly leaving you with a photo circling the internet. Don't risk it.

A shaft can be damaged many ways. It could have hit something in your target, It could be defective from the factory, Damaged in shipping or in the store where you bought it, in your quiver, or any number of other ways. The bottom line is if you don't KNOW why, assume it is damaged and retire it.
 
The common variable in my experiences have been with the really thin walled shafts. The Lightspeeds and X-Ringer HVs are super thin to get those speeds up; meaning they are very fragile and don't hold up well to group shooting or hard impacts.

I guess I'm a little more picky than the average person when it comes to the arrows. To help me see "patterns" I will put paper or a piece of cardboard up on the target and shoot at a spot. After several rounds, you will start to see patterns forming via the holes left in the paper/cardboard. If I see that a particular arrow is going left/right or up/down vs the others, I will try indexing it a little and see if it makes any change. Some times it does. Sometimes it does not. If it does not...no biggie; chunk it.
 
Hoss said:
Take Crow's advice on the one flyer. Retire it. If it is caused by a crack or a weak spot in the shaft it could fail suddenly leaving you with a photo circling the internet. Don't risk it.

A shaft can be damaged many ways. It could have hit something in your target, It could be defective from the factory, Damaged in shipping or in the store where you bought it, in your quiver, or any number of other ways. The bottom line is if you don't KNOW why, assume it is damaged and retire it.
Click to expand...
O ya , I never had any idea of keeping it . It's one of my tournament arrows . I order all my arrows bare shaft and build my own . I know it hasn't hit anything , because its been that way since shot #1 . I was mainly just whining about having to pay so much for the .001 expensive arrows and having to throw one away right out of the gate .
I've already put it in the scrap arrow box . I'm wondering if maybe the carbon has some inconsistencies . It's just bugging me and my OCD . When something isn't working I always want to fix it .
 
Crow Terminator said:
The common variable in my experiences have been with the really thin walled shafts. The Lightspeeds and X-Ringer HVs are super thin to get those speeds up; meaning they are very fragile and don't hold up well to group shooting or hard impacts.

I guess I'm a little more picky than the average person when it comes to the arrows. To help me see "patterns" I will put paper or a piece of cardboard up on the target and shoot at a spot. After several rounds, you will start to see patterns forming via the holes left in the paper/cardboard. If I see that a particular arrow is going left/right or up/down vs the others, I will try indexing it a little and see if it makes any change. Some times it does. Sometimes it does not. If it does not...no biggie; chunk it.
Click to expand...
I would imagine I'm just as picky . I've thrown tons of small diameter hunting shafts away because they wouldn't group . But this is the first x killer I've had that I couldn't get to hit the same dot at 40 as the rest of my arrows . Most of the time it's the Indian that's not hitting the dot lol

I've had issues with the HV's as well , I share the same idea with the thin wall shafts . But the X-killers are pretty thick walled , and you know how short my arrows are .haha so that makes them super stiff . It almost takes a sledgehammer to break them . I forgot to set my sight the other day shooting in the yard and shot over my target . I hit a 4x4 post dead center and the arrow bounced off . The only thing that it did was make the bushing and nock pop out . I checked the arrow very carefully and flexed it alot before I put a bushing and nock in it . It still shoots the same lol .
Crow can tell ya , my arrows look like crossbow bolts haha .
 
It has always been that way with arrows. In the days of Cedar Shafts an archer may start with 4 dozen shafts to end up with a dozen shooters.
Without a doubt things are better now, but still not perfect.
 

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