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Bare Shaft Tuning

UTGrad

UTGrad

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I am shooting bullet holes through paper but am going to give bare shaft tuning a try. Has anybody found this to be a good method of confirming tune?? I am pulling 70 pounds on my Z7 with a 28" draw with a 27.5" 7595 Gold Tip. I am starting to believe I might need to back it off to 65-67 lbs to eliminate a little left tear. A preliminary bare shaft tune today gave me a slight impact to the right of the flecthed arrows which according to Easton would indicate a weak arrow. Given the nasty conditions today I am going to confirm this with a longer session at 15 yards and further out to see where the bare shaft hits.
 
Bare shaft tuning? You mean with no fletching? Sounds interesting, never tried it. Don't guess I need to if the bow is already shooting 4 inch groups of 5 @ 70yds!
 
I've tuned using this method, but I prefer the walk-back tuning method. By using the walk-back method and shooting several arrows, you will get a better feel for bow torque and center shot position. IMO, its much better than shooting one bare shaft, making adjustments, then shooting one bare shaft again. Do a search on archery talk if you are not familiar with this method. It works. IMO, bare shaft tuning and paper tuning are about the same. Both can produce less than desirable results depending on how you grip/torque the bow. Good luck.
 
with 70 lbs and a 27.5 75-95 goldtip there is no way it is underspined over maybe but not under, i would check the rest before a different shaft
 
Yeah, I thought about that after I posted it. One could have multiple bare shafts laying around, but I figured the OP was like most people and had fletchings on most of his arrows. To me, if an arrow isn't fletched, it's useless.
 
tndrbstr said:
transparentpsycho said:
Bare shaft tuning? You mean with no fletching? Sounds interesting, never tried it. Don't guess I need to if the bow is already shooting 4 inch groups of 5 @ 70yds!
Click to expand...
You would be surprised at the loss of energy an arrow can have with a bow that is out of tune and can still be extremely accurate...
Click to expand...

Makes since. I will shoot tomorrow and see how it does. Thanks for the advice!
 
I just have an OCD about things like that. If I bust a fletch off an arrow, it goes directly on the Bitz. LOl.
 
tndrbstr said:
JayMc said:
I do a ton of bare shaft tuning on my fita and field setup, but that's for shooting 90M.

For hunting and 3D this is what I do,
Click to expand...

What differance does it make what your shooting? 3D or what ever? I just dont understand that...Why would you want to tune one way for one thing and tune another way for something else...Is the goal not the best posible accuracy at all yardages while acheiving optimum arrow energy? :confused:

paper tuning with a bare shaft is SIMPLY to tune the relationship between the string, the arrow nock and the arrow rest. Thats it. if those three things are not in synch with each other then what ever is happening down range is secondary to that...
If your arrows are not grouping left to right at differant ranges after its been paper tuned with a bare shaft then the problem lies in either your knocking point and sight pins, or the braodheads are plaining...or a combination of those two things imo
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Trust me...JayMc knows what he is doing!
 
I am starting to believe it could be like rocket science. I mean, a rocket is launched and propelled by thrust and the aerodynamics dictate drag. There are a lot of things that can be tweaked by tuning an arrow.
 

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