DixieCrafter
Well-Known Member
When the subject of bow stabilization is mentioned it takes on a life all in itself sometimes. If you take more than a casual look at how people attach stabilizers to their bows you will notice very quickly that there seems to be no rhyme or reason of how they go about it, making it highly subjective!
You'll see single bars, v-bars,single back bars, double back bars, and an endless variations of configurations even on the identical model bow. Then you will see add on weights screwed on in any place they can!
I realize that how some people approach stabilizing their bow is based on their height, stamina, bow model, and strength.
Some real smart folks have written encyclopedic length papers on this very subject likening the process to voodoo!
Here's what little I know about it:
The shorter the bar the more weight you'll need and of course, the longer the bar the less weight you need. If your sight pin moves from side to side, load the front bar with weight. If your sight pin bobs up and down load the back bar until it slows or stops regardless of how much weight, and you can add mass weight to the bow. Remember light weight bows really aren't your friend in a competition rig! The angle of your back bar applies leverage and determines the amount of weight to be used.
My current set-up on my PCE is 4 ounces on a 33" front bar and 24 ounces on a 15' back bar set at about 45 degrees and very close to the bow. The bow is balanced perfectly at pre-draw and at full draw and I think the bow needs more weight! (On order)The front and back bars are attached to the front stabilizer hole with a Bernie's knuckle. If I attach a back bar to the lower hole I can most likely use a shorter bar and less weight. This will require more future experimentation and of course more money!
Take a look at the pictures of Reo Wilde that I've posted. Reo is the number one ranked archer in the world! His whole family is into archery! If you study his bow stabilizer set-up I am left scratching my head wondering how does he do that?
In the pictures look closely at the amount of weight on the front bar and the back bar. Then look at the position of the back bar! The back bar looks like it's out there at 45 to 60 degrees! Try your set up like this some time and I guarantee that you will be fighting the bubble and the bow will feel as if it's going flip over on its' side! In most of the pics Reo is shooting a Fuse Blade stabilizer and back bar. The Blade weights are made in 1, 2 and 3 ounces. Reo is shooting mostly rows of 3 ounces weights. That's a lot of added weight!!! He's also one of the few archers I know of that has more weight on the front bar than the back bar!
How does he do that? He's Reo!
You'll see single bars, v-bars,single back bars, double back bars, and an endless variations of configurations even on the identical model bow. Then you will see add on weights screwed on in any place they can!
I realize that how some people approach stabilizing their bow is based on their height, stamina, bow model, and strength.
Some real smart folks have written encyclopedic length papers on this very subject likening the process to voodoo!
Here's what little I know about it:
The shorter the bar the more weight you'll need and of course, the longer the bar the less weight you need. If your sight pin moves from side to side, load the front bar with weight. If your sight pin bobs up and down load the back bar until it slows or stops regardless of how much weight, and you can add mass weight to the bow. Remember light weight bows really aren't your friend in a competition rig! The angle of your back bar applies leverage and determines the amount of weight to be used.
My current set-up on my PCE is 4 ounces on a 33" front bar and 24 ounces on a 15' back bar set at about 45 degrees and very close to the bow. The bow is balanced perfectly at pre-draw and at full draw and I think the bow needs more weight! (On order)The front and back bars are attached to the front stabilizer hole with a Bernie's knuckle. If I attach a back bar to the lower hole I can most likely use a shorter bar and less weight. This will require more future experimentation and of course more money!
Take a look at the pictures of Reo Wilde that I've posted. Reo is the number one ranked archer in the world! His whole family is into archery! If you study his bow stabilizer set-up I am left scratching my head wondering how does he do that?
In the pictures look closely at the amount of weight on the front bar and the back bar. Then look at the position of the back bar! The back bar looks like it's out there at 45 to 60 degrees! Try your set up like this some time and I guarantee that you will be fighting the bubble and the bow will feel as if it's going flip over on its' side! In most of the pics Reo is shooting a Fuse Blade stabilizer and back bar. The Blade weights are made in 1, 2 and 3 ounces. Reo is shooting mostly rows of 3 ounces weights. That's a lot of added weight!!! He's also one of the few archers I know of that has more weight on the front bar than the back bar!
How does he do that? He's Reo!
If nothing else, it would let you get an idea of how much weight you need to get your setup where you want it. Then you could order exactly what you need in weights, if you decide the sockets look tacky. I've got a buddy that went head over heels in buying this expensive stuff last year. He had over $400 in his B-Stinger rig and never even went to an ASA shoot. He didn't even shoot the state shoot. He shot a few local shoots with it and that was it.
