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braodhead problems

switchbacker

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for some reason i cant get my broadheads tho fly properly. field tips are anywhere i want them, but my broadheads are high and left, no matter what ive done. i checked my bands and changed all of them, im at a loss. any ideas
 
meatseeker 3 blade 100 grain. they arent grouping well either, i put a rage practice head and it was same as my field points, however i no longer have any rages
 
Two questions have to be answered before you do anything else. Are your arrows the correct spine and is the bow tuned? If either of those are not a "yes", then that will be what you need to correct before you start moving anything as either of them will make broadhead tuning a nightmare�if not impossible.

If you are spined correctly and the bow is in tune you need to move the rest to bring the two to where they are impacting in the same place. Begin by moving the rest down in 1/16ths of an inch increments and/or move the rest to the left in 1/16ths of an inch increments. Only make one adjustment at a time, and I would start by moving the rest vertically. By moving one ,vertical or horizontal, it often affects the other.

After you have both impacting at the same point, then adjust your sight and you're done.
 
arrows are correct, i went to both hoyt and victory websites to double check. as for my bow being tuned ill start on that in the afternoon tomrrow. i use a nap quicktune, so by dropping it would it be just dropping it to the lower setting or what? im new to tuning my bow myself
 
shooting into a black block target. id go back to rage but i have these and dont want to buy more, im cheap. the funny thing is i can hear them spinning when i shoot them, its fairly odd
 
switchbacker said:
arrows are correct, i went to both hoyt and victory websites to double check. as for my bow being tuned ill start on that in the afternoon tomrrow. i use a nap quicktune, so by dropping it would it be just dropping it to the lower setting or what? im new to tuning my bow myself

Yes, you should have a verticle adjustment that will allow you to loosen a bolt and slide the rest launcher arm down.
 
Each year we will spend WEEKS preparing our equipment for the upcoming deer season. We usually begin our season around the third week of September and end it after a doe hunt in mid January, out of State.
Then it's a few weeks off until about March or April and bow fishing begins. During Turkey season the bows will be shot a few times to begin preparing for after turkey season which means 3-D shooting.

After the last Saturday in August (now), we put up the 3-D targets and begin broadhead shooting and testing ALL hunting arrows.

I just finished re-tuning my set-up. I RE-tested all my my hunting arrows. These weigh a good 100 grains heavier than my target arrows. Though my target arrows do suffice for hunting, they just do not endure many kills so are not very economical.

Out of 12 LIKE NEW and "supposed" to be perfectly matched hunting arrows, ONLY TEN made it "to my quiver". One of these arrows would not fly right so it gets re fletched.

The other one of these arrows, though it looked perfect, was not. It took me several shots to figure out what was going on but I finally did. It had a TINY HAIRLINE crack near the nock which caused imperfect flight. When I pulled down on the nock I could see the crack grow.

Before I head to the woods I will set out a target, put on a harness, attach my bow to my stand rope, and climb to my hunting height. Then, I will shoot known distances while a buddy moves targets and pulls BROADHEAD tipped arrows for several shots from 5 to 30 yards.

If there is ONE thing I have learned after 31 years of doing this, it is that I will leave NOTHING in my equipment to chance.

After all, the ONLY thing I have ANY degree of control over is MY EQUIPMENT. I work too hard, invested too much time and money, and waited to long to blow a shot because I did not check my broadheads or see if my lower limb will clear my climber.

And yes, I probably DO take hunting too seriously. But then, I feel I owe it to the animal that I am planning to KILL, to do so as effectively as possible. With as little suffering as possible.
 
BTW, if I shoot mechanicals, tuning my bow is not so critical. But then, if I have a well tuned set-up, it will shoot either.

But NO well tuned bow will shoot a cracked arrow, or messed up fletchings.
 
Also, switchback,
Kudos to you for taking the time and putting forth the effort to check your equipment and finding these problems NOW. I wish ALL the guys I hunt with would do this. It would probably save us all a bunch of time looking for bad shot deer.
 
thanks 102. so i did that and watched a you tube video on how to adjust my rest, 3 shots great! now its all over the place, 2 left 4 right 1 low, talk about frustrating. with my old sight none of this occured and im wondering if something is bent, off balance etc, im no pro but i can shoot good, glad season isnt a couple weeks away
 
Put your rest back go get some thunder heads at walmart and try those they are great heads and it will tell you if its the head arrow combo you are shooting for instance i cant shoot three blade blood runners but i can shoot almost any thing else im not sure why it just is.
 
its went from a broadhead problem to a tuning problem. now its my field points or any head i put on my arrows. i can see the bow of my arrow when i shoot, im thinking i need a new rest, or at least a professional to look at it
 
1. Have you checked to make sure the cams are in time and checked for cam lean?

2. Is your nock setting correct? On that rest, if the nock is too high, or too low it can cause contact which could be part of your erratic groupings.

I would offer to look at it for you, but a 3 hour drive is probably a little overkill? :)
 
nock was correct, my rest was loose, which in turn was causing the erratic flight. two turns of a hexnut and im good to go. however, it did convince me to go back to the redhead balckout broadheads which ive always had good luck with
 
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