Okay well I'm new to bow hunting, I was wanting peoples thoughts on if I should get fixed or mechanical broad heads? Also generally speaking when picking a location for a stand is it good to put it near a edge of a field or more deeper into the woods? On private land not public. I know its a broad question.. but any suggestions will help!
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broadhead advise
- Thread starter Austin95
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TNDeerGuy
Well-Known Member
Choosing a broadhead is a "highly debated" choice that is really up to you�some swear by mechanicals and others despise them. I will say this......there has never, ever been a fixed blade that has failed to open and there is not a single mechanical that can say that they have a 100% open rate. As far as where to setup really depends on the terrain, pressure and other variables. I mainly hunt woods, but when i do get a chance to hunt fields I typically will setup in a pinch-point or funnel 30yds or so off of the field edges and catch them "skirting" the edge of the fields. Keep in mind, the places I hunt and neighboring properties get quite a bit of pressure/activity, so getting deer out in the open of a field during daylight is rare.
and......WELCOME to the site and the forum!!!
and......WELCOME to the site and the forum!!!
Hoss
Well-Known Member
I prefer fixed blades and a perfectly tuned bow.
I prefer hunting shelfs and pinch points. However a field can be a great place. Find a well used trail. Often times in a corner of the field. Not all corners are the same. Look back into the woods 20-25 yards from a corner and see if you can find where they are approaching or exiting the field. If you know where they are headed then you are half way there. Sometimes a little early morning observation, or late afternoon spying is helpful (some people call that preseason scouting).
If you find the corner that they enter or leave through then sometimes you can back trail them to a pinch point for even more concentrated traffic.
This same plan will work on not only a field but a thicket (an area grown up so thick that you can barely walk through it), a Cedar/Pine stand, or a bottom area between ridges and on the hardwood ridge tops. I really like hunting shelfs. Those flat areas on the side of ridge where the deer pass through from bedding to feeding areas, or use as an escape route from hunting pressure.
Deer don't usually travel in a random pattern. They usually have a place they are going and a place they are leaving. The route they choose is what you are trying to find. When deer are actively feeding their movement is rather random so if you are hunting a feeding area make sure you are placing your stand in a spot that will make it difficult for the deer to detect you. Wind, movement and noise have saved more deer lives that anything else. So, protect yourself against those.
Draw up a plan. Find the travel routes, the feeding areas and the bedding areas. Then pick a stand that will provide you a high percentage chance of not being seen, smelled or heard and you will get your opportunities.
Become proficient with a bow. You don't have to be Robin Hood, but you do need to be proficient. "I shot that buck TOO perfectly!" said no bowhunter ever.
Learn anatomy. I am amazed how many bowhunters do not know where the heart or lungs are on a deer.
Be very selective in your shot. Placement is key. Don't ever shoot a deer that you hope you will get. Don't ever shoot at a deer you think you can hit. Only take a shot that you know you will make. You will be wrong often enough to keep you humble. But to risk losing deer on low percentage shots will cause you to quit bowhunting. I would not wish the experience of losing a deer you shot at because he was huge, and you were hoping you could make a shot an a deer you should have never attempted a shot at, on anyone.
Remember that if you don't shoot, there is always the chance that you will get a better chance in a day or month or next season on that same deer. If you shoot him poorly and he runs off and dies and you can't retrieve him, He is never coming back.
Good Luck!
I prefer hunting shelfs and pinch points. However a field can be a great place. Find a well used trail. Often times in a corner of the field. Not all corners are the same. Look back into the woods 20-25 yards from a corner and see if you can find where they are approaching or exiting the field. If you know where they are headed then you are half way there. Sometimes a little early morning observation, or late afternoon spying is helpful (some people call that preseason scouting).
If you find the corner that they enter or leave through then sometimes you can back trail them to a pinch point for even more concentrated traffic.
This same plan will work on not only a field but a thicket (an area grown up so thick that you can barely walk through it), a Cedar/Pine stand, or a bottom area between ridges and on the hardwood ridge tops. I really like hunting shelfs. Those flat areas on the side of ridge where the deer pass through from bedding to feeding areas, or use as an escape route from hunting pressure.
Deer don't usually travel in a random pattern. They usually have a place they are going and a place they are leaving. The route they choose is what you are trying to find. When deer are actively feeding their movement is rather random so if you are hunting a feeding area make sure you are placing your stand in a spot that will make it difficult for the deer to detect you. Wind, movement and noise have saved more deer lives that anything else. So, protect yourself against those.
Draw up a plan. Find the travel routes, the feeding areas and the bedding areas. Then pick a stand that will provide you a high percentage chance of not being seen, smelled or heard and you will get your opportunities.
Become proficient with a bow. You don't have to be Robin Hood, but you do need to be proficient. "I shot that buck TOO perfectly!" said no bowhunter ever.
Learn anatomy. I am amazed how many bowhunters do not know where the heart or lungs are on a deer.
Be very selective in your shot. Placement is key. Don't ever shoot a deer that you hope you will get. Don't ever shoot at a deer you think you can hit. Only take a shot that you know you will make. You will be wrong often enough to keep you humble. But to risk losing deer on low percentage shots will cause you to quit bowhunting. I would not wish the experience of losing a deer you shot at because he was huge, and you were hoping you could make a shot an a deer you should have never attempted a shot at, on anyone.
Remember that if you don't shoot, there is always the chance that you will get a better chance in a day or month or next season on that same deer. If you shoot him poorly and he runs off and dies and you can't retrieve him, He is never coming back.
Good Luck!
Deerhunter96
New Member
fixed i got some swhackers and the dont hold a consistent pattern
deerhunter10
Well-Known Member
for a beginner I would recommend a fix blade just because you really have nothing to worry about with them and when your beginning out that's just one less thing to worry about. now on stand placements, especially this year I am really keying on on oak trees as I usually do for bow season but they are just full right now. but as tndeerguy and hoss and both of them hit it right on the head with some good advice. pinch points travel corridors ect are great. just because the chances of getting skirted goes way down. welcome to the site some great advice from people on here! good luck
Grim Reapers
lung-buster
Well-Known Member
I like bow hunting fields. I normally find a good entrance or exit trail to pattern and hunt. I've shot a lot of broad heads over the years and now stick with fixed blade.
utvol5
Well-Known Member
Rage 2 blade 100 grain....hard to beat! I made a bad shot on a nice 8pt last year (public land) and the deer didn't run 60 yards.
ghostfive
Well-Known Member
While I shoot Grim Reapers first Rage two blade as a back up if you are new to bow hunting then fixed is probably best. I didn't go to mechanical until I had shot for years with Muzzy 100 gr.
Tuning is a bit different for fixed but learn to shoot, pick your shots and stay within your comfort zone.
Tuning is a bit different for fixed but learn to shoot, pick your shots and stay within your comfort zone.
StalkingWolf
Well-Known Member
Sharp ones!
