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Building a reloading bench, need advice

JimFromTN

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Jul 14, 2008
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Location
Nashville, TN
I am building a reloading bench to go in my house so I want it to look as nice as posible. What is the best finish to protect the wood from absorbing oils and solvents?
 
:cool:

I just set one up at my house. I went to Lowes and boughe one of their Kobalt work benches and a pice of laminated cabinet top. It made a pretty good bench in a short time.
 
ReloadingBench.jpg


This is our setup, 2x6's with glass cases to hold all the dies in the bottom, just use 2 bar stools with backrests.
 
I used a 6x6 post,,2x6 frame,,covered in 5/4 board with 1/2 inch plywood on top,,with an extra 5/4 board cross ways under the spot where my press is bolted,

rock solid,,and serves a Christmas tree storage also,,

anti2-1.jpg
 
1/4" angle iron and a sheet 1/4" plate steel for the top.

I got tired of wimpy arse tables, breaking notches and chunks of wood out around the press. That happens when you work resizing 7mm Rem Mag and 300 WSM.


sorry, but I probably didn't help with your wanting something that looks nice. :)
 
Use a plywood top and cover it with linolium like you have in your kitchen or bathroom. Oils and solvents wipe up easy, and it won't scratch your stocks.
 
swamp stump said:
1/4" angle iron and a sheet 1/4" plate steel for the top.


I'm laughing - I did the exact same. I thought I was the only one dumb enough to build a table out of steel.

Mines a sheet of 4'x 8'x 1/4" plate on top of a frame built of 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle with sched 40 pipe legs - shelves are basically the same.

Not a great picture, but you can get an idea:

40Savage001.jpg
 
Kimberman said:
Use a plywood top and cover it with linolium like you have in your kitchen or bathroom. Oils and solvents wipe up easy, and it won't scratch your stocks.

I am kind of leaning this way with maybe some of the faux wood looking stuff. This is going in my office next to my computer desk so I kind of want it to look good. I am going to use it for reloading as well as working on my guns. I was thinking I would use untreated 4x4's for the legs and then a sheet of plywood on top of 2x8's for the top with some 3 inch trim around it so you don't see the 2x8's. I was going to stain it the same color as my computer desk and then varnish. My concern is that the varnish will not hold up to the oil and solvents that I use to clean my guns.
 
Mine has a butcher type counter top on it, and has held up well to sovlents and such for UMP 20 years.Framed in out of 2x4's
BTW

You could get you a couple of floor cabients and place a counter top on it.With a square brace between the cabinets out of 2x4's.

My uncles is a built framed 4x4's an 2x4's with the top out of left over hard wood flooring lamients over plywood.

S.H. Nice Dillion set up .
 
Just finished my reloading/workbench. Scrounged some used cabinets and countertop from friend of mine who was replacing his kitchen. Probaly have less than a couple of hundred dollars in whole deal. Rebuilt the base cabinets and the lower countertop lifts out of the way so I can access storage closet under staircase on other side of wall.
000_0002.jpg
 
Kimberman said:
What is the barrelled action you have on the peg board?
Czech BRNO Mauser 98 with a 30/06 barrel. Am starting a sporter project. When this is done am wanting to do 22-250 next. Have a Turk Mauser 98 action for that one.
 

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