Does different brass affect accuracy?

[casjoker]

I have a Begera .308 that I tried some hand loads in with no success. I loaded some with 42.5gr and others with 44gr of Vagret. All with a Hornady 165 interlock. I kept track of which powder weight I was shooting, and it did not impact the pattern of behavior I saw regarding accuracy. I am using once-fired brass from different manufacturers, such as Federal, Norma, and Sellier&Bellot. I use the same Winchester primers in all. Two or three rounds would be 1.5" groups; the next three might be 8" groups—zero predictability. I am using a Hornady lock and load press but in a single-stage format. I did use the resizing die and crimp die. When I make a batch of ammo, I weigh and measure each bullet for constancy, and in this process, I noticed the brass from different manufacturers had different weights. The inaccuracy was frustrating, and I didn't think to check which bullet I was sending down range until after I was out of ammo.

I am shooting FederalGold Medal 168 for a factory load and can get sub-MOA and always less than a 1.5" group, even over a 5-shot group.

My question is, would the variation in brass lead to the inconsistencies?

I will set up another 50 rounds and plan to separate them out by brass this time. However, could this be as simple as my rifle not liking 165 interlocks? I have some 165 A-max, but I plan on using whatever works best for hunting deer and maybe elk. The A-max isn't designed for hunting, so I'm not sure I want to spend the time with that bullet.

I am a complete rookie at this, so any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[Jcalder]

Absolutely it can and will. Separate your brass by head stamps at a minimum. Pick one set, either by the most you have, or the best you have. I personally wouldn't use the s&b brass simply because I've never messed with it. Federal brass is generally consistent but it's soft. Primer pockets go fairly fast with it. But don't mix brass if you're looking for accuracy

 

[bloodtrailing]

Get someone with experience to help you.

 

[TN Song Dog]

I dint reload, so cant add a lot on that. What came to mind was bad scope/rings issue or a damaged crown. Will it shoot any factory ammo with any repetability?

 

[Jcalder]

If you're close to Cookeville shoot me a pm and maybe we can get together and I can help you out.

 

[casjoker]

Factory ammo is consistently under 1.5" and usually sub-MOA, but I have only used 168 and 180-grain bullets in factory ammo.

 

[nso123]

You are introducing several variables with the brass, bullets, and using a crimp. The only bullets I have found that shoot better with a crimp are Hammers.

 

[casjoker]

If you're close to Cookeville shoot me a pm and maybe we can get together and I can help you out.

Over in the Sweetwater area. I may holler at you if I don't get it figured out before Christmas.

 

[casjoker]

You are introducing several variables with the brass, bullets, and using a crimp. The only bullets I have found that shoot better with a crimp are Hammers.

Good thought. I will make up a few non-crimped ones and sort out all my brass.

 

[Jcalder]

You are introducing several variables with the brass, bullets, and using a crimp. The only bullets I have found that shoot better with a crimp are Hammers.

I agree, and wouldn't use a crimp myself.

 

[shrimphead]

try not crimping and use the same brass brand.

 

[MUP]

I use the same headstamp brass, and even weight sort those for a median weight group, for long range shooting that is. I still use the same headstamp brass regardless of shorter range hunting ammo around here. Also, once fired in your particular rifle chamber, the shoulder should/could stretch to meet your chamber's dimensions. I would measure your shoulder length on your freshly sized case, then measure the same dimension after you fire the round in your rifle. There should be a difference in length. You're trying to determine your chamber size so you can stay close to the chamber shoulder and not fully resize the case (stretch) each time unnecessarily, as that causes undue wear and premature case failure. There are tools that you can use to measure your chamber's depth so you'll know exactly where you need to be, but when I first started out I "snuck up" on it by firing and measuring, then just resizing, without bumping the shoulder back, and then checking again after the next firing, until there was no more stretching, then I knew pretty much where I was at with my shoulder depth. But, I would recommend using a chamber depth tool from the start to be more accurate, and to save firings on your brass.

 

[Remi]

Use the same headstamp, don't crimp, set your dies up correctly



Proper die setup

 

[MUP]

You can also use an appropriately sized empty pistol case (fired, with primer removed preferably) to measure over your bottleneck rifle case to measure the shoulder distance with basic dial calipers. This is how I still measure mine btw.

 

[megalomaniac]

something other than handloads from different brass headstamps is going on. That wouldn't cause 8in groups. 2in groups, maybe... but not 8in groups.

 

[MUP]

Definitely check your brass cases over well, look for cracked necks.

 

[Jcalder]

Definitely check your brass cases over well, look for cracked necks.

I know a guy that would shoot split necks if he found them after he loaded them lol. I personally wouldn't. But he said he never had an issue

 

[Creek bottoms]

Separate by brand, trim to the same length, de-bur the flash holes. Don't fool with crimping. Do some research on where the Bergara likes the bullet to be seated. Most rifles like the bullet seated closer, maybe even touching the lands, while some like a jump. It's trial and error sometimes.

 

[jlanecr500]

At least you found factory ammo it will shoot.

I bought a new Bergara short barrel 308 to suppress and shoot 200yds and in. Pretty much to be used as a woods gun. What a joke. I tried several powders and bullet weights. Ran about 10 load progressions all together. I even swapped scopes with a known good one. No difference. I tried factory ammo too. I saw groups as large as 6". The best I could get was 1.25" groups with hand loaded Berger 168 Classic Hunters over imr 8208xbr in Lapua brass so I settled on it and called it done. The node is super narrow. The group opens a large amount dramatically by increasing the charge by .2gr up or down. I call that a bubble node. It will still be a good, light weight woods gun. Just hate i had to spend so much in bullets and brass to settle for less.

This was my 2nd Bergara that shot like crap. I believed the hype but now I see the light or muzzle flash !

Hindsight is 20/20. I should have bought a Savage. I'd have been done after the first combo progression.

I bought a new Tikka Superlight in 308 yesterday. Hopefully it will be Savage easy to work up a load for. It sure is a sweet little gun.

 

[nso123]

I just noticed that you said you were going to do another 50 rounds. I wouldn't do so many while you are trying to find what it shoots. There are a few ways of working up to the best load for your rifle. Look up OCR and ladder testing to see if either of those would work for you. There are lots of hunting bullets that are known to shoot well. Berger Classic Hunting bullets are pretty easy to get dialed in. There are lots of folks hunting deer with the Hornady ELD-M too, even though it's a match bullet. Hammer bullets are very easy to dial in, but you have to pay attention to your twist, and Bergara has some slow twist barrels on some rifles. Let us know how you do as you keep load development going.