Don't Sweat the Small Stuff........Really?

DixieCrafter

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2012
Messages
372
Reaction score
0
Location
Mid-TN
I didn't want to hi-jack some of the recent posts about equipment, bow maintenance, and bow presses and such so I thought I would chew the cud on some of these issues!

If you don't take control over your equipment, you are really missing out and settling for less! Is mediocrity what you seek? No one other than yourself or a good buddy that's willing to help you will really care how well your gear is tuned or how well you shoot!

A draw board is a handy device to have in your arsenal of tools, but the bow press is UTTERLY invaluable! With a bow press I can: install a peep, change threads, set cam timing, synchronize cams, adjust brace height, adjust ATA length both sides, change limbs, change cams, yoke tune, complete disassembly of bow and more! I can do all this without leaving my home or driving 50 miles to a dealer for a 60 second fix that I have to leave my bow for who knows how long and avoiding this is truly priceless!!!

I continue to be amazed at the number of archers who choose not to exercise quality control over ALL phases of their equipment! There are some top tier shooters that don't even fletch their own arrows! Duh!

People routinely drive 2-3 hours to my house for bow TLC. Last week a left handed friend drove 2 hours to bring his bow and archery gear up for tuning. The first shot through paper showed 2" high and 2" left UGLY tear that told me there was a WHOLE LOT OF WORK TO DO! When my friend left that afternoon after several hours of tweaking his gear, he could shoot a perfect tear through paper for the first time ever, and his arrows were now properly spined and he picked up 20 fps! Picking up 20 fps for a 27" draw archer is HUGE! We also got his bow perfectly balanced to his liking with a stabilizer and back bar!

Details? Do they really matter that much? A couple of weeks back I was experimenting with peep height position on a new bow set-up. When I found the new peep position that I thought was more comfortable I then tied the peep in, and then shot new marks, and created a new sight tape that was perfect. After several days of shooting this new peep set-up I felt like I was shooting it ok, but felt like my anchor wasn't as solid as it should be or had been. Sometimes my anchor felt a little mushy, soft, or even lightly floating. Well it was back to the drawing board so to speak! I untied the peep and repositioned it back where it had been and then test shot the new position.

Once I was satisfied with the new peep position I tied the peep in and measured the difference in the two peep positions, and the difference was 1/8" or.125 inch. Then it was time to test shoot again. Ask yourself this: How much difference would a .125 inch difference in peep position make on my arrow's point of impact? The answer is about 15 yards! I know this because the old sight tape now had to be set on 35 yds to hit at 20 yards! So 1/8" = 15 yards, 1/16" or .0625 inch = 7.5 yards, 1/32" or .03125 inch = 3.75 yards, 1/64" or .015625 = 1.875 yards difference in point of impact! This means 1/64" shift in peep position could change the point of impact of my arrow by over several feet! Of course this is on my set-up and YMMV!

I want to exercise precise quality control over the slightest detail of my archery gear! When I tie that peep in, it WILL NOT migrate and your competitor can't move it, and it does not twist the string! You can remove my d-loop and install a new one without losing your tune. I leave nothing to chance or to Mr. Murphy because of attention to detail and preparation. Whom ever said "don't sweat the small stuff" surely wasn't an archer (or a reloader), cause the small stuff will rear up and bite you on the patookis at the worst possible moment!

Psssst....let me tell you a secret: MOST BOW SHOPS JUST DON'T CARE! They smile and take your money and hope you move on down the road until you spend more money the next time! In my area there is a BAIT SHOP that sells archery tackle and they worry more over a $3.00 sale of minnows and I won't darken their door!

The next time you're in your favorite Pro Shop and I use that term loosely, look around and watch how they build carbon arrows. Do they square the end of the arrow after cut-off? Do they square the nock end? I do! I have never seen this done in ANY bow shop I have visited! They don't care!!!!

If it's about your budget or the cost of the necessary equipment either save and sacrifice to obtain it or find a friend that will help you work on your stuff! I have never charged folks a dime to work, on or set-up their bows!

Want to shoot better? Take control over your equipment and be sure to visit TNDeerGuy's BOW SPA! :grin:
 
Good post! I'm too am amazed at the number of archers, competition level included, that are completely void of any knowledge of how to do the most simplest things on their equipment or the most basic tuning knowledge of a bow.

What's a bow spa? :D
 
TNDeerGuy said:
Good post! I'm too am amazed at the number of archers, competition level included, that are completely void of any knowledge of how to do the most simplest things on their equipment or the most basic tuning knowledge of a bow.

What's a bow spa? :D

A bow spa is when you AW, get your magic wand, talisman, incense, smoke. and mirrors out to sing a lullaby to your bow so that it can get it's feng shui on! You exercise the bow's demons and bathe it in glowing positive re-enforcement all the while stroking and petting your bow's ego!
 
DixieCrafter said:
TNDeerGuy said:
Good post! I'm too am amazed at the number of archers, competition level included, that are completely void of any knowledge of how to do the most simplest things on their equipment or the most basic tuning knowledge of a bow.

What's a bow spa? :D

A bow spa is when you AW, get your magic wand, talisman, incense, smoke. and mirrors out to sing a lullaby to your bow so that it can get it's feng shui on! You exercise the bow's demons and bathe it in glowing positive re-enforcement all the while stroking and petting your bow's ego!

:insert eyeroll here: I knew better to ask...LOL
 
Agreed. But at the same time, if you don't have anybody to show you how to do things the right way, you'll just end up messing up and getting frustrated. I remember when I was trying to learn how to tie a D loop the correct way, I went to YouTube and found gobs of videos of people showing how to videos on tying a D-Loop and I swear every one of them was different. The same went for tying in a peep and redoing center serving, etc.

I have got to the point I know what to look for in the bows to know if cams are out of sync, how they feel when they are out, etc. I know enough I can tell somebody else what the problem is. But I don't know exactly how to fix all of it. You are right though...most bow shops operate more like a eating establishment mentality...get as many people in and out as they can. I decided the bow press was a bit more than I was ready for and sold mine, but I kept my other goodies. I am an arrow cutting and fletching guru.
 
one day I may try a press but im with crow im not ready nor do I have someone I really trust that knows what they are doing to really show me things. I have to much money tied up in my equipment to mess it up fooling around with it. one day I will but as of now not ready for it.
 
I agree shops are about getting people in and out the door with a bow that will get 3-4" groups at 20 yards. That's acceptable to a lot bow hunters. If your form is consistent enough you could group arrows that are literally doing somersaults to the target. You just have to adjust your sight and shoot the same everytime. The thing is that is not a "tuned" bow. Just because a bow groups does not necessarily mean you are getting good arrow flight. To get great tune it requires more than simply setting center shot and nock point in some cases.

Im with Crow. I've leaned a lot about tuning but I don't own a press. I know enough about what is going on that I usually have a diagnosis before I head to the shop. I'm glad Matt at Energy Wave is around. He took time to yoke tune and time the cams on my Hoyt. Arrow building is what I'm getting into. I actually need to get some insert glue if anyone has recommendations.

I played golf my entire life and for many years carried a handicap less than 5. As good as I was at golf I didn't change my grips on my clubs nor did I change shafts. I knew what I wanted and talked it over to the tech at the golf shop.
 
Fine tuning, or basic tuning for that matter, a bow is really more of a mental game than it is anything�the best thing is to take your time and do not get frustrated. As long as you know what changes do what, then you are on your way. While you're in the "learning phase" you may create vast more problems than you solve, but that is where patience and the ability to walk away and come back with a clear mind come in�that is the key to learning how to work on your own. It also helps to do advance study on a particular bow by gaining all of the knowledge before you actually work on it, especially if you haven't worked with that particular bow before. While they all are mechanically the same, they can be somewhat different in how they operate/tune and each one can have its own little qwerks so to speak�the internet can be a valuable tool in this department.


UTG, the best insert glue out there is Gold Tip Tip Grip. However, you have to work quickly with the stuff because as soon as it hits carbon you only have a few seconds to get everything seated properly.
 
You guys make me think I need to hang my bow up! I will honestly admit that I don't have a clue about tuning nothing. I have shot a bow all my life but have never tried to fix anything on my own. Like UTGrad said as long as its grouping its good right?! Maybe it's the fear of messing up the only bow I have and the fact that I don't have someone with the know-how to show me. But hey, if it weren't for guys like me what else would you do with all your dandy tools?!
 
TNDeerGuy said:
UTG, the best insert glue out there is Gold Tip Tip Grip. However, you have to work quickly with the stuff because as soon as it hits carbon you only have a few seconds to get everything seated properly.

Thanks. I was looking at that one and Bohning Insert Iron. I've heard Insert Iron is the opposite and a slow cure so you have to let it sit for a few hours. I had some inserts come out when I shot a couple ends in the cold weather last week into my Rhinoblock. Pulled the arrow out with no insert lol
 
outdoors crazy said:
You guys make me think I need to hang my bow up! I will honestly admit that I don't have a clue about tuning nothing. I have shot a bow all my life but have never tried to fix anything on my own. Like UTGrad said as long as its grouping its good right?! Maybe it's the fear of messing up the only bow I have and the fact that I don't have someone with the know-how to show me. But hey, if it weren't for guys like me what else would you do with all your dandy tools?!

I used to think "if its grouping it must be good" but now I am not happy till I can bareshaft tune at 20 yards. Straight arrow flight is what I'm after first.
 
For example I had a Z7 that literally tore a 3" left tear in paper at 10 ft. I was told to "step back and shoot again". At 10 yards there was a bullet hole. I assumed I was tuned. What actually was happening was at 10 yards the Fletching had corrected the nock left arrow flight but it was severely fish tailing. Had I been able to step back another 5 yards in this shop I would have seen a right tear. I could group with field points but screw on a broadhead and I could see the fish tailing in flight. The bow wasn't tuned.
 
outdoors crazy said:
You guys make me think I need to hang my bow up! I will honestly admit that I don't have a clue about tuning nothing. I have shot a bow all my life but have never tried to fix anything on my own. Like UTGrad said as long as its grouping its good right?! Maybe it's the fear of messing up the only bow I have and the fact that I don't have someone with the know-how to show me. But hey, if it weren't for guys like me what else would you do with all your dandy tools?!

You've already done the hardest part...admitting you're clueless. There are numerous places on-line to get info�some good and some bad. The best thing to do is just ask if it is something you're wanting to know. Or get with someone that is willing to show you want you to know�there are several of us in your area that could probably do that.
 
UTGrad said:
outdoors crazy said:
You guys make me think I need to hang my bow up! I will honestly admit that I don't have a clue about tuning nothing. I have shot a bow all my life but have never tried to fix anything on my own. Like UTGrad said as long as its grouping its good right?! Maybe it's the fear of messing up the only bow I have and the fact that I don't have someone with the know-how to show me. But hey, if it weren't for guys like me what else would you do with all your dandy tools?!


I used to think "if its grouping it must be good" but now I am not happy till I can bareshaft tune at 20 yards. Straight arrow flight is what I'm after first.

I used to assume the same when I first got started. It's amazing how far out of tune a bow can be and still "group" great.

I also bareshaft tune nowadays. It really doesn't get any more precise. I've done it out to 40 before but I'm content with 25-30. Farther than that, I'm just not good enough. However if bare shafts are flying good at 30, I'd bet good money that any fixed blade I put on the end of my arrow will do the same.
 
I've quit shooting bare shafts at 40. Any small twitch of the wrist will send that sucker flying into oblivion. Got tired of losing good bare shafts. If I was dead perfect I could get a bare shaft to hit within a pie plate of fletched at 40.
 
UTGrad said:
For example I had a Z7 that literally tore a 3" left tear in paper at 10 ft. I was told to "step back and shoot again". At 10 yards there was a bullet hole. I assumed I was tuned. What actually was happening was at 10 yards the Fletching had corrected the nock left arrow flight but it was severely fish tailing. Had I been able to step back another 5 yards in this shop I would have seen a right tear. I could group with field points but screw on a broadhead and I could see the fish tailing in flight. The bow wasn't tuned.

If you want a good tear walk the shooter right up against the paper to shoot. Then as you move back from the paper you'll see what the tear really look like. At some point, far enough back from the paper the fletching will correct the arrow flight and minimize the effect on the tear!

Get a Bitzenberger jig for fletching!!!
 
I sold my Bitz & went with the Bohning Helix. I like it a lot better for blazers. I decided a long time ago that it was obvious I knew more about tuning a bow than the guys in the shops I'd been in. Got a press & a jig and never looked back. It's a great feeling not having to rely on someone, especially an incompetent someone.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top