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Energy Wave Strings

UTGrad

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Cookeville, TN
Matt (Fasteddie) built me these strings last week. I can't say enough good things about this set. Zero peep rotation and has stayed in perfect spec. Another great thing is Matt was able to tune timing and super tuned my rig there at his shop. It's shooting bare shafts with fletched at 20 yards.








 
Looks very good, love those colors, and yes Matt builds a great string and is a great guy!

Glad you got it tuned....most people won't bother with bareshaft tuning because it is an absolute pain in the rear and practically impossible to do with a compound and is completely overkill as far as tuning goes. What little you gain in going through all that trouble you will sacrifice in human error�unless your last name is Beaubouef or Morgan. You're lucky he messed with it, because most won't for a variety of reasons, and if they do it is very expense ($40-$75 per hour). :) A recurve bow, Olympic or Traditional style,.....that is completely different and the start of this "bareshaft tuning" phase�and it needs to stay with them.
 
TNDeerGuy said:
Looks very good, love those colors, and yes Matt builds a great string and is a great guy!

Glad you got it tuned....most people won't bother with bareshaft tuning because it is an absolute pain in the rear and practically impossible to do with a compound and is completely overkill as far as tuning goes. What little you gain in going through all that trouble you will sacrifice in human error�unless your last name is Beaubouef or Morgan. You're lucky he messed with it, because most won't for a variety of reasons, and if they do it is very expense ($40-$75 per hour). :) A recurve bow, Olympic or Traditional style,.....that is completely different and the start of this "bareshaft tuning" phase�and it needs to stay with them.

I keep a bare shaft in my quiver and shoot it almost every end or group. Form is so critical when shooting a bare shaft as you know.

If I can group a bare shaft with fletched at 20 yards, I'm 100% confident my bow is tuned. Also I believe i can screw on any broadhead and it will hit very close if not exactly with field points.
 
UTGrad said:
TNDeerGuy said:
Looks very good, love those colors, and yes Matt builds a great string and is a great guy!

Glad you got it tuned....most people won't bother with bareshaft tuning becauthese it is an absolute pain in the rear and practically impossible to do with a compound and is completely overkill as far as tuning goes. What little you gain in going through all that trouble you will sacrifice in human error�unless your last name is Beahiubouef or Morgan. You're lucky he messed with it, because most won't for a variety of reasons, and if they do it is very expense ($40-$75 per hour). :) A recurve bow, Olympic or Traditional style,.....that is completely different and the start of this "bareshaft tuning" phase�and it needs to stay with them.

I keep a bare shaft in my quiver and shoot it almost every end or group. Form is so critical when shooting a bare shaft as you know.

If I can group a bare shaft with fletched at 20 yards, I'm 100% confident my bow is tuned. Also I believe i can screw on any broadhead and it will hit very close if not exactly with field points.

If that is what it takes to give you the confidence you need then so be it, and I'm glad it works for you--confidence is King in archery! I'm just saying that a great tune where broadhead and field-points hitting the same with almost every broadhead can easily be achieved without the headaches of bareshaft tuning a compound bow, which is hit or miss at best with a compound and some put more emphasis on it than it needs to be. Not directed towards you directly, but the select crowd over on AT that swear by it and really started and continually push this unneeded headache. :)
 
AT sucks but I'm still over there.

I don't think bare shaft tuning is that big of a deal. Once you get paper tuned I start at 10 yards with bare shaft. Just little tweaks with the rest and it will group. Go back to 20 yards and make any further tweaks if needed. I got my new strings Friday afternoon and had it bare shaft tuned at 20 yards in two sessions.

I do agree it's not necessary but I like the instant feedback from shooting a bare shaft. I don't have a paper tuning rack so it's a quick method to check tune without having to run to the bow shop.
 
UTGrad said:
AT sucks but I'm still over there.

I don't think bare shaft tuning is that big of a deal. Once you get paper tuned I start at 10 yards with bare shaft. Just little tweaks with the rest and it will group. Go back to 20 yards and make any further tweaks if needed. I got my new strings Friday afternoon and had it bare shaft tuned at 20 yards in two sessions.

I do agree it's not necessary but I like the instant feedback from shooting a bare shaft. I don't have a paper tuning rack so it's a quick method to check tune without having to run to the bow shop.

I know you like to tinker, so build a tuning rack. 5 minutes and $15 and you've got a great rack (that can fold up and hide out of the wife's way ;) ), or you can just cut the sides out of a box and throw some newspaper over it and you're done if your in a jam.
 
I do want a paper tuning rack. Thank you for the tip TNDeer Guy.

I used to stand back 8-10 yards and shoot a bullet hole in paper. I would walk away thinking I had good arrow flight but that wasn't the case. If I stood 6 ft I would get a large left tear and at 12 yards a right tear. My arrow was fish tailing! Now I want a bullet hole at 6 ft. Matt yoke tuned my Spyder Turbo and I was able to get much better arrow flight and better groups down range. The more I learn the more fun archery gets!
 

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