• Help Support TNDeer:

Getting more from your trail cams - Ideas & TIPS

TheLBLman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2002
Messages
39,903
Reaction score
23,542
Location
Knoxville-Dover-Union City, TN
How can we get more enjoyment and satisfaction from our trail cam use?

Over the years, I've gotten much enjoyment from this "hobby", and learned a few ways of "getting more". Some "tips" and "ideas" are camera specific, others aren't. Some are in regard to "how" you go about placing, coming back to check and service, then what you do with all those pics.

I'm just going to start this with some ideas on batteries.
Others please add more tips & thoughts, and maybe we'll come up with a good list of helpful "tidbits".

[size]"Invest" in rechargeable batteries.[/size]
They will save you $ over time, but a big advantage is in feeling good about swapping them out, even when half their juice remains. When I was mainly using Duracells, I'd often find only about half the battery power used up when I was checking a cam. But maybe not wanting to check that cam again for weeks, the dilemma became whether to replace those half-used Duracells, or just let them totally run out.

This battery issue often caused me to need to check cams more often and/or have cams out that weren't working since the batteries had run out of juice. This situation is eliminated by simply having 2 sets of rechargeable batteries for each cam. With the rechargeables, even if only 1/4 of the battery power has been used, you have nothing to lose by replacing that set with the other fully charged set.

Also along the line of "batteries", a cam that can work for 6 months on a set of batteries may require less "servicing" trips than one that eats up its batteries in 6 weeks. Don't overlook the cost of batteries when considering the initial cost of one new cam vs. another. Over a period of 2 or 3 years, between the gasoline you use for special trips to check your cams, and all the batteries, you could spend more on a cheap cam that eats batteries than an expensive cam with long battery life.
 
However, some specific cams are quirky.
I have a Cuddeback that will not work with rechargeable batteries. I have others that will only work with "certain brands" of SD cards.

My initial thought in starting this thread was to help people avoid some of the "dissatisfaction" and "frustrations" that also come with using trail cams. Very frustrating to put a cam out, come back next month, only to find it hadn't been working, or not working properly.
 
It would also be helpful to have an extra SD card to swap out.
Make sure the power is on,a few cams you must first turn the cam off before unloading or loading the SD card.So make sure before you leave that cam for a week or so that it is turned on.
Instead of getting a pic. of that big buck when you get back to your cam you find out you forgot to power it up.

One more thing make sure there are no small trees in the field of view.If the wind picks up,you will get a hundred pictures of a small sapling.And do not point the cam at a large tree...unless you want pictures of squirrels:smile:
 
Re: Getting more from your trail cams - Ideas & TIPS

That book is a great idea for anyone using trail cams.
Maybe we can come up with a few helpful tidbits of info here not in the book.

Here's another:

[size]When considering to buy a new cam,
check out the independent user "reviews" such as at

www.chasingame.com
[/size]

Then wait at least a few weeks to see if there are problems not initially found before you purchase. Many of the cams that have become available in the last few years have had major quality control issues. Many purchasers would not have made their purchases had they simply read about what problems they could expect with certain brands and models.

Again, regarding trail cam use, not much more frustrating than going thru the (sometimes time-consumptive) process of properly placing a cam in the field, coming back in a few weeks only to find your cam hasn't been working.

[size]Ignore the advertising![/size]
Some of the most "advertised" and appealing new cams of the past two years, including some "endorsed" by celebrity hunters, have been truly pieces of junk to many purchasers.
 
Carry a small folding saw when moving/locating trail-cams, and use it to remove all hanging branches, small twigs/shrubs and tall grass from in front of the camera. Many cameras will trigger on twigs/branches/grass blowing in the wind.

If at all possible, face your cameras north. If that isn't possible, face your cameras south. Unless you want lots of pictures of the rising or setting sun, don't point your cameras east or west.

Look for cameras or camera mounting brackets that allow the camera to be tilted up and down. This can be an image-saver when placing cameras on steep hillsides or if placing cameras on trees with tilted trunks.

Don't point a camera towards a large tree-trunk or you will get lots of pictures of squirrels and coons going up and down the tree.

Think "black flash."

If you have a mixture of night-time illumination cameras (white flash, red-glow and black-flash), use the white-flash cameras for monitoring wide-open feeding areas (food plots and ag fields) where the bright white illumination can be use to greatest effect. Use the red-glow cams on trails and bottlenecks. Using the black-flash cams on scrapes.

Considering one of the best use of trail-cams is to monitor buck inventories (the identity/number/age of unique bucks using a property during hunting season), make sure you have cameras monitor scrapes from mid-October through the end of the rut. You will get your best buck inventories at scrapes.

Move your cameras frequently. Even when monitoring scrapes with black-flash cameras, I find two scrapes very close together may be being worked/visited by different bucks. Don't assume all the scrapes in a line are being worked by the same buck(s).
 
Try not to mount cameras on small trees they will sway when the wind blows and cause false triggers.

I run mostly Moultries cameras, their feature for the external batteries is the best that I have seen. With their cameras you can put a set of batteries in the camera, and hook-up a external battery. The camera will use the power from the external battery first, then when the voltage gets low on the external battery it will automatically switch over to the batteries in the camera. I usually only have to buy one set of batteries a year for my Moultries, and just recharge the external batteries.
 
BSK said:
Carry a small folding saw when moving/locating trail-cams, and use it to remove all hanging branches, small twigs/shrubs and tall grass from in front of the camera. Many cameras will trigger on twigs/branches/grass blowing in the wind.
This can be very important.
Not only will some of these "false" trigger your cam, but even something very small close to the lens can obstruct much of your pic when a deer triggers the cam.

For limbs, weeds, etc. that are 1/4-inch or less, I prefer a small limb/grass "clipper" rather than the folding saw. With the clippers, I don't have to touch what I'm cutting, whereas you usually have to "hold" small limbs with your other hand when sawing. Little things like this can sometimes make the difference on older deer, i.e. using the saw may leave behind more human scent than using the clippers.
 
Wes Parrish said:
For limbs, weeds, etc. that are 1/4-inch or less, I prefer a small limb/grass "clipper" rather than the folding saw.

Good advice Wes. I carry both--clippers and folding saw. Actually for tall grasses, some type of sling-blade would be best.
 
Re: Getting more from your trail cams - Ideas & TIPS

My focus is on the best photographs I can get. For those of you just wanting to take buck inventories, you might not care as much about quality photos as not scaring away deer. I have no proof, but I believe that white flash coming from the correct angle does not scare many deer enough to stay away.

In my opinion, there is no purpose for infrared lighting. Black and white shots suck compared to color shots. I'm sure the light could scare a critter away in rare instances, but I just don't see much evidence of it. Some species scare more than others, and I take that into consideration with camera angle and height depending on species.

I use some type of lure or scent for almost every situation (pigs, birds of prey, turkeys, deer, coyotes, red foxes, gray foxes,... every lure or scent is different).

My baits are usually within two feet of the camera, so I make sure my flash is on its lowest setting. If not, it blows the photo out with light and scares more animals. Photos 30 feet away with a high flash have their place, but only rarely for my uses, so there's no point to crank the flash up. In the below example, I had over 100 shots of a bobcat within feet of my camera, all ruined because my flash was too high.

DSC07062e.jpg


DSC07008e.jpg
 
Re: Getting more from your trail cams - Ideas & TIPS

What about camera height? There's something to be said for switching it up. I believe having a camera up 10 or so feet can be kind of cool. It thwarts theft, frightens less deer, and sometimes provides for some cool, different shots.

On the other hand, I really love putting a camera way down low to make it look like your subjects loom large. I even spray a curiosity scent right on the camera box so I get photos of whiskers and/or tongues all the time. I just shove the correct diameter stick between the bottom of the cam box and the tree to create an upward angle (put a stick at the top to create a downward angle).

One drawback is the rain splashing mud from below onto your lens. I just keep a scrap of carpet on the ground to prohibit that. I also have a scrap of camo-painted Tupperware placed over the top no matter what height or situation to prevent raindrops from screwing up photos by wetting the lens.

Here are a few of birds that seem bigger because the camera is lower. There was something off about the cam during this time, so the pics. aren't as clear as they should be.

DSC046501.jpg


DSC00258Blurplussharpene.jpg


DSC02822e.jpg


DSC046091.jpg
 
Just awesome pics
Your tip on cam. height is good also...if the thief has to climb a tree ..it might change his mind.

And if you get that cam. low enough you can tell the bucks even when they Drop the antlers:laugh:
 
Gil,
Thanks for sharing so much cool info! :)
gil1 said:
My focus is on the best photographs I can get. For those of you just wanting to take buck inventories, you might not care as much about quality photos as not scaring away deer. I have no proof, but I believe that white flash coming from the correct angle does not scare many deer enough to stay away.
Totally agree.

My observation is that regular old "white" flash (such as we have on our homebrews) actually does less "spooking" than the red-glow infrared cams. Truth is, we were very misled about the "infrareds" when that technology started hitting the commercial cam market in just the past few years. Most of us thought a deer couldn't see it, but not only can they see it, but they seem to be bothered more by it!

On the other hand, traditional "white" flash may seem no more than distant lightning (from a deer's perspective). Deer experience natural lighting flashes on a very regular basis, and are not spooked by it. But when they see a "red glow", that's not natural to them. Maybe the "red glow" looks like some predator's eyes.

IMO, the "red glow infrared" is a marketing gimmick for the most part. Sounds good, but results in poorer quality pics. Not only are your nighttime pics B&W, but many of your nighttime pics are so blurry as to be worthless. However, the more expensive "true black flash" infrareds are invisible, yet they still produce often blurry, B&W nighttime images, sometimes worse images than even the "red glow" versions. That said, I do like the "true black flash" for some set-ups, but have no personal use for any of the "red glow" or "low glow" cams (those are what most "infrared" flash cams are).
 
Wes Parrish said:
On the other hand, traditional "white" flash may seem no more than distant lightning (from a deer's perspective). Deer experience natural lighting flashes on a very regular basis, and are not spooked by it.

I have many, many picture sequences of deer running away from white-flash cameras. Not all deer react the same way, but for many deer, white-flash scares the heck out of them!
 
Re: Getting more from your trail cams - Ideas & TIPS

BSK said:
Wes Parrish said:
On the other hand, traditional "white" flash may seem no more than distant lightning (from a deer's perspective). Deer experience natural lighting flashes on a very regular basis, and are not spooked by it.

I have many, many picture sequences of deer running away from white-flash cameras. Not all deer react the same way, but for many deer, white-flash scares the heck out of them!

In the QDM cam book you talked about, I wrote about a coyote I named "Paris Hilton" because it seemed to almost model for the camera while eating persimmons I put in a pile. Other yotes are more skiddish. Same with deer, so I know at least some of them know something's up. But I've seen the exact same deal during the day with no flash and with infrareds, so that doesn't prove anything concerning types of flashes. But my point is that I agree that different animals react differently.

I don't know how many hundreds of thousands of photos I have shot of deer. There have been some instances of just one or a few pics., and that's it. I don't have a clue why they didn't stay. It might be the flash, and it might not be - impossible to prove either way. I got the same results with my infrareds except the picture quality was seriously horrible.

I can't think of a single photo off-hand in all those tens of thousands that looks like a deer is running away. I know we have some of the same cameras. The only conclusion is that we are doing something differently. Is it possible that you stink??? :D

I am a huge proponent of doing what works for you, though, so more power to your infrareds.
 
Re: Getting more from your trail cams - Ideas & TIPS

BSK said:
I have many, many picture sequences of deer running away from white-flash cameras. Not all deer react the same way, but for many deer, white-flash scares the heck out of them!
I agree, and by no means did I mean to imply that SOME deer aren't spooked by white flash. Just stating that in my experience, deer were more likely to avoid "red-glow" infrared flash, after their first encounter.

No matter what type flash you're using, the deer isn't going to have a clue before that first time it triggers your cam. (He finds out AFTER his pic has been taken.) You should get the pic with all. Just that the infrareds are more likely to get you a worthless blurry pic on that first triggering.

I also suspect that many of the older white-flash cams were "noisier" than some of the newer cams. It may be that the deer were running away from the noise of the cam, not the flash.
gil1 said:
I don't know how many hundreds of thousands of photos I have shot of deer. There have been some instances of just one or a few pics., and that's it. I don't have a clue why they didn't stay. It might be the flash, and it might not be - impossible to prove either way. I got the same results with my infrareds except the picture quality was seriously horrible.
Similar results for me, Gil.
gil1 said:
The only conclusion is that we are doing something differently. Is it possible that you stink??? :D
GOOD ONE, GIL!!! :grin:
And actually, seems I once heard David Jolly tell BSK he wasn't going to do any good one morning because of that stink! :D
 
Back
Top