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hooooboy. last minute tuning.

fishboy1

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Bow has been STACKING field points at all ranges 10 yds to 35yds.

New string/new cables/LOTS of time reading bow tuning issues and discovered a cam lean problem which I corrected. Best I have shot in years.

FINALLY got my tuning issues behind me....I thought.

Since I was shooting so well, I waited until last week to test my broadheads.

@20 They were 3"low and 5"right so I moved my rest a touch to the left.
That moved the FP & BH closer with my BH 2" low and 2-3" right. Was getting tired so I put the bow away.

Today, the broadheads were scary good at 30yd. Shot the same arrow 3 times in the same hole about 3/4" low. YEAH BABY!

Checked 20yds and WHAAAAA? 2" low and 4" LEFT??? They were 2" low and 3" RIGHT when I put the bow away last week !

Looks like I am getting some tail wag on my arrows out around 15 yards so Its back to the drawing board tonight when I get home from work. Paper tune/walk back tune/ FP/BH tune.

Im about ready to sell this stupid bow and get one that is easier to tune.
 
I was having very similar issues. moved rest right and left, changed broadheads, etc.

I did note that when I tested with mechanical it cut the variance from fp to bh in half.

My solution ended up being in the rest, which was my last and potentially easiest change. I had the NAP 360 (post and brush setup) and was told the post could be limiting some natural flex in the arrow. Switched to the whisker biscuit for $69. Instant fix.
 
I agree walkback tune sight in your 20 yard then shoot at 40 to see if you are hitting right or left. If hitting left move rest right just very little at a time until your hitting in line with your 20 yard arrows. Paper tuning can be useless at times. What setup are you shooting arrow lenth, draw weight, and what kind of arrow. A heavy arrow spine will usally fly better with broadheads.
 
AH HA! just double checked my arrow spine.

Since i have new cables and string, the bow is pulling 72# when it previously was 69# Anything 70# or higher bumps me up to a 7595 arrow from the 5575 I am shooting.

Will 3 extra # make that much difference in arrow spine?

If I take a turn or two off the limb bolts, will that goof up my nock point/cam timing ?

Going to walk back tune tomorrow and don't want to be chasing my tail if the arrow spine is critical, but I don't want to throw my cam timing or nock point off either.
 
at 69 i would have been using the 7595 to start with, and yes a few pounds will make a big difference a couple turns of the bolts shouldnt hurt you to much, i use the 7595 at 62 lbs with my outlaw and they shoot great
 
fishboy1 said:
AH HA! just double checked my arrow spine.

Since i have new cables and string, the bow is pulling 72# when it previously was 69# Anything 70# or higher bumps me up to a 7595 arrow from the 5575 I am shooting.

Will 3 extra # make that much difference in arrow spine?

If I take a turn or two off the limb bolts, will that goof up my nock point/cam timing ?

Going to walk back tune tomorrow and don't want to be chasing my tail if the arrow spine is critical, but I don't want to throw my cam timing or nock point off either.

If your on the "bubble" it can have an affect on spine, especially if you were on the high-end of the normal range with the other arrow. Going down a couple of pounds can help spine related issues if your on the bubble, but it will not affect timing or nock point.
 
Back the weight down will make a difference. I understand your stress, you read my thread about my limbs. Tonight I am hoping to finish my tuning. Good luck!
 
Thanks guys!

I am going to back the limbs out a crank or two. I have always left them bottomed out so I didn't have any changes to compensate for.

If I drop the poundage under 70# should I look at getting the stiffer shafts anyway? Im not getting any younger and would have probably wanted to start bringing the draw weight down a little in the coming years anyway.
 
the further down you go you need more flex not more stiffness.

you can get that program to tell you the exact optimal spine for your set up which is an awesome tool to use (i forget the name of it but someone will post it)
 
Matthews FX (single cam)
30" draw
72# draw weight
muzzy zero effect drop away rest.

Goldtips 5575 27-1/4" shaft 100gr muzzy.

Gold tip site says 5575 for a 27" shaft 30" draw pulling UNDER 70#
Once you go above 70lb you bump up to the stiffer 7595

It also says if you are shooting a longer broadhead it affects your arrow as if it is a longer shaft.
 
Headhunter said:
I have not shot field points in over 20 years. I only shoot broadheads.

Made that choice about the same time you did.
Best thing I ever did.

The last time at midnight on Friday night before opening day I spent shooting by the headlights of my truck broke me from the dreaded transfer from field points to broadheads.
 
Well 223984376 shots later, I think I am back in spec.

Moved rest 3x to the left. Moved sight to the left, then down.

THINK I am hitting 1" low at 20 & 30 dead on left/right. Got tired and shaky so I will confirm tomorrow.

Pretty amazing how much difference moving your rest 3/16 of an inch will make.
 
With all the trouble iv'e had the past few weeks, im scared to death to even think about practicing with broadheads. Im just now gettin it right with the FP's ! Man !!!!!!! I had no idea it could get this complicated. Think i might just go back to jumping out of my stand with a bowie knife.
 
RUGER said:
Headhunter said:
I have not shot field points in over 20 years. I only shoot broadheads.

Made that choice about the same time you did.
Best thing I ever did.

The last time at midnight on Friday night before opening day I spent shooting by the headlights of my truck broke me from the dreaded transfer from field points to broadheads.

HA! I did this last year!!! Amazing. THanks for that reminder.
 
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