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How to build a box blind on remote site

Jon54

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My days of climbing trees ended 4 years ago after a fall. The area we hunt isn't easily accessible. We don't have a front end loader or an atv. Does anyone have any ideas how to build a box blind where you have to tote the materials by hand? Also, the land is on the side of a large hill.
 
Got a 4WD truck? Take the lumber in in it. Toting in enough lumber to build by hand is gonna take a while.
 
A good popup blind is the way to go, a couple of good chairs and you can stay warm and dry, take it down after season till the next unless you plan on turkey hunting. also easier to move if a better spot is found
 
if you want a permanent shooting house
Take a 4' level and measure the drop on the hill
Go back and build the base to that
Then build the walls and roof in panels complete with door and windows . Tote em out to the site and put em together. I've done a few this way and it works out well . Nothing ventured ,nothing gained !!! Good luck
 
My days of climbing trees ended 4 years ago after a fall. The area we hunt isn't easily accessible. We don't have a front end loader or an atv. Does anyone have any ideas how to build a box blind where you have to tote the materials by hand? Also, the land is on the side of a large hill.
Get some of these resident TNDeer engineers to help you out! I'm sure some on here are more than willing.

Have you considered contracting it out? I have seen some services to do so if you are willing to invest in it.
 
I built this by myself. No help. I did use an ATV and small trailer to haul the stuff in.

The components can be carried in by hand if you have help. You can pre cut and dry assemble at home and tote it in and assemble the base. The blind itself is is easy to assemble on site.
 

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Where are you located? With season being almost over, there's probably a few of us with some free time who maybe able to help.
 
I built this by myself. No help. I did use an ATV and small trailer to haul the stuff in.

The components can be carried in by hand if you have help. You can pre cut and dry assemble at home and tote it in and assemble the base. The blind itself is is easy to assemble on site.
Kirk, I looked at those kits when I was trying to decide on elevated box blinds. Now that you've assembled one and used it, what do you think?
 
I have 3 assembled and out in the boondocks. The assembly is easy after you get a system down. The roof portion is the most difficult part to assemble and attach. I filled every crack I could see daylight through with expanding foam to keep the critters out. They all seem to contain scent really well. I am usually totally de-scented and I don't open all the windows. Deer just don't pay any attention to it after they get use to it being there. It seems to be dark enough inside they can't see in the windows or just don't care.

It is noisy and the sound resonates if your gun hits something, slips or falls over. If you accidentally kick the wall with your boot it is loud. When an acorn falls out of a tree and hits it is sounds a lot louder than you would think it would. However, I have made what I considered to be loud noises and deer won't even look up. So I assume it is just a lot louder inside the blind since it is trapped noise.

As for hunting comfort. The windows are easy to open and just about perfect height for a gun rest. I carry a small Muddy window gun rest just to lay in the window just to cut down on the noise when aiming the rifle. The blind holds in heat good in the winter and stays fairly warm without a heater. I am sure if got down in the teens a heater would be needed. Two hunters can easily fit in the blind.

The door latch is not really adequate. I had to redesign all of mine and beef them up a little. The doors were bad about flapping in the wind because they were not tight. Once I fixed that issue the doors close, stay closed and don't flap. The only other "Con" I think of is the floor gets wet if it rains. I have indoor/outdoor carpet in mine to help cut down the noise and if it gets wet anything you lay on it gets wet. I placed a plastic shelf on the floor to keep things dry.
 
I have 3 assembled and out in the boondocks. The assembly is easy after you get a system down. The roof portion is the most difficult part to assemble and attach. I filled every crack I could see daylight through with expanding foam to keep the critters out. They all seem to contain scent really well. I am usually totally de-scented and I don't open all the windows. Deer just don't pay any attention to it after they get use to it being there. It seems to be dark enough inside they can't see in the windows or just don't care.

It is noisy and the sound resonates if your gun hits something, slips or falls over. If you accidentally kick the wall with your boot it is loud. When an acorn falls out of a tree and hits it is sounds a lot louder than you would think it would. However, I have made what I considered to be loud noises and deer won't even look up. So I assume it is just a lot louder inside the blind since it is trapped noise.

As for hunting comfort. The windows are easy to open and just about perfect height for a gun rest. I carry a small Muddy window gun rest just to lay in the window just to cut down on the noise when aiming the rifle. The blind holds in heat good in the winter and stays fairly warm without a heater. I am sure if got down in the teens a heater would be needed. Two hunters can easily fit in the blind.

The door latch is not really adequate. I had to redesign all of mine and beef them up a little. The doors were bad about flapping in the wind because they were not tight. Once I fixed that issue the doors close, stay closed and don't flap. The only other "Con" I think of is the floor gets wet if it rains. I have indoor/outdoor carpet in mine to help cut down the noise and if it gets wet anything you lay on it gets wet. I placed a plastic shelf on the floor to keep things dry.
What brand is the blind?
 
Perhaps you could use those black foam rubber mats from harbor freight on walls and floor.
 
I've used every type of stand over the years but have used my "enhanced" buddy stands more in recent years than other stands because they are comfortable, safe to ascend, and a good combination of hunter concealment and weather "proofing". They are also not very heavy to get the components back into the woods. First, metal buddy stands only cost about $100 to $150 depending on when you buy them, are not that heavy compared to 2x4s and plywood and can be carried into the woods by a couple of people or an ATV and assembled on-site out of the box. I also use a store bought metal tree mounted canopy frame to provide a canvas "roof" over them to shed rain, snow, and leaves.. The metal frameworks are very strong and last "forever" as I have at least two that have been in place for at least 15 years with no real rust or cracking problems.

Now for the "enhanced" part. An open stand of any kind provides no concealment or weather resistance. So I get pressure treated wooden lattice and camo paint it with spray paint before I mount and attach it to the buddy stand framework on all sides with paracord and zip ties leaving a hanging "door" in the front that hangs from the steel railing. Paracord and zip ties last years with little to no deterioration. The deer cannot see much through the lattice but you can look out through it and see the deer if they walk under you or close to you. And then I cover the lattice with see-through burlap or other camo-fabric that further cuts visibility to the deer and cuts wind and rain from blowing in very much. Zip tying the fabric to the lattice prevents it from blowing around in the wind but allows sunlight to penetrate so no mildew and mold occurs as I have seen in boxed in enclosures. You can reach over the buddy stand railing and zip tie tree branches with leaves for more natural camo until it looks like a birds nest up in the air.

You find yourself in an easy-to-shoot-from relatively open surround-blind with a canopy up in the tree but able to see all around you and still get the outdoors feeling with just a little breeze or mist in your face on windy/drizzly days but without that feeling of being "boxed" in. Shooting guns and crossbows is easy because you just hunker down a little when a deer comes along and rest them on the shooting rail. Shooting a vertical bow can be harder but can be done with some practice.

Total cost of the materials (stand/canopy/lattice/burlap) that can be hand carried into the woods is only around $300 and maybe less. I can actually go to sleep in them by tying or strapping myself in to the stand as I lay back on a padded cushion. Unless it's extremely cold and very windy and blowing rain I much prefer to "smooth it" by hunting out of one of these stands. The deer almost never know you are there.
 

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I've used every type of stand over the years but have used my "enhanced" buddy stands more in recent years than other stands because they are comfortable, safe to ascend, and a good combination of hunter concealment and weather "proofing". They are also not very heavy to get the components back into the woods. First, metal buddy stands only cost about $100 to $150 depending on when you buy them, are not that heavy compared to 2x4s and plywood and can be carried into the woods by a couple of people or an ATV and assembled on-site out of the box. I also use a store bought metal tree mounted canopy frame to provide a canvas "roof" over them to shed rain, snow, and leaves.. The metal frameworks are very strong and last "forever" as I have at least two that have been in place for at least 15 years with no real rust or cracking problems.

Now for the "enhanced" part. An open stand of any kind provides no concealment or weather resistance. So I get pressure treated wooden lattice and camo paint it with spray paint before I mount and attach it to the buddy stand framework on all sides with paracord and zip ties leaving a hanging "door" in the front that hangs from the steel railing. Paracord and zip ties last years with little to no deterioration. The deer cannot see much through the lattice but you can look out through it and see the deer if they walk under you or close to you. And then I cover the lattice with see-through burlap or other camo-fabric that further cuts visibility to the deer and cuts wind and rain from blowing in very much. Zip tying the fabric to the lattice prevents it from blowing around in the wind but allows sunlight to penetrate so no mildew and mold occurs as I have seen in boxed in enclosures. You can reach over the buddy stand railing and zip tie tree branches with leaves for more natural camo until it looks like a birds nest up in the air.

You find yourself in an easy-to-shoot-from relatively open surround-blind with a canopy up in the tree but able to see all around you and still get the outdoors feeling with just a little breeze or mist in your face on windy/drizzly days but without that feeling of being "boxed" in. Shooting guns and crossbows is easy because you just hunker down a little when a deer comes along and rest them on the shooting rail. Shooting a vertical bow can be harder but can be done with some practice.

Total cost of the materials (stand/canopy/lattice/burlap) that can be hand carried into the woods is only around $300 and maybe less. I can actually go to sleep in them by tying or strapping myself in to the stand as I lay back on a padded cushion. Unless it's extremely cold and very windy and blowing rain I much prefer to "smooth it" by hunting out of one of these stands. The deer almost never know you are there.

I like that thing. You turned it into a haunted house. Where do you get the roof?
 

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