What all does a person need to get started loading it.
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Loading tss
- Thread starter chrmayo
- Start date
ADR
Well-Known Member
Recipe
Scale
Primed hulls
Powder
Whatever wad, gas seal, etc recipe calls for
Tss shot +/- buffer
Overshot card
Roll crimp tool
Drill
I'm sure I'm missing something in there
Scale
Primed hulls
Powder
Whatever wad, gas seal, etc recipe calls for
Tss shot +/- buffer
Overshot card
Roll crimp tool
Drill
I'm sure I'm missing something in there
TN Larry
Well-Known Member
Order shot from a reputable TSS reloader, and he will give you the recipe for your gun. The list above covers most, but they will only share the recipe if you get the shot from them.
Other than the supplies, then as said you need a scale, drill, and crimping tool. I also made a holder to hold the shell as I crimped it. It's not that hard to do. It just takes a few hundred to get started with supplies that will last a while and then the TSS shot.
Good luck
Other than the supplies, then as said you need a scale, drill, and crimping tool. I also made a holder to hold the shell as I crimped it. It's not that hard to do. It just takes a few hundred to get started with supplies that will last a while and then the TSS shot.
Good luck
Displaced_Vol
Well-Known Member
Where are y'all getting your TSS?
I've got some Lee Load All IIs in 12, 16 & 20. From what little bit I've looked I see most folks rolling their shells with TSS. Is there any advantage to doing this or is it just cheaper than buying a press?
My thought was to use the Lee to de-prime, prime, set the wad & then crimp...measuring powder & shot by hand with a scale.
I've got some Lee Load All IIs in 12, 16 & 20. From what little bit I've looked I see most folks rolling their shells with TSS. Is there any advantage to doing this or is it just cheaper than buying a press?
My thought was to use the Lee to de-prime, prime, set the wad & then crimp...measuring powder & shot by hand with a scale.
FARMTOFIELD
Well-Known Member
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Just cheaper, I fold crimp all mine with a lee load all
TN Larry
Well-Known Member
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
I'm ALL about reloading... in fact, I dont think I've shot a single factory rifle round in over 20 years.
That being said, I've found the federal factory TSS loads to be more than adequate in pattern and performance. It just wasn't worth it for me to store all the extra shotshell reloading supplies in addition to my stash of center fire rifle supplies. But I'm sure its satisfying shooting a longbeard with your own shotshells.
Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
That being said, I've found the federal factory TSS loads to be more than adequate in pattern and performance. It just wasn't worth it for me to store all the extra shotshell reloading supplies in addition to my stash of center fire rifle supplies. But I'm sure its satisfying shooting a longbeard with your own shotshells.
Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
Displaced_Vol
Well-Known Member
TN Larry":12i6s6io said:
Thanks, TN Larry!
I get my shot from another guy here in TN, however I use Hals loads for when I first got shot from him. The TN guy use to be much cheaper but I think the prices are about the same now
asked about some last night for a buddy wanting some and his $ was $52 a lb and $8 shipping up to 10 lbs. Glad I bought a bunch back when it was almost $20 cheaper a lb.
asked about some last night for a buddy wanting some and his $ was $52 a lb and $8 shipping up to 10 lbs. Glad I bought a bunch back when it was almost $20 cheaper a lb.
Southern Sportsman
Well-Known Member
These answers have you pretty well covered. For most every load, you will need:
-Hulls
-Powder
-Scale
-Wads
-Shot
-Buffer (usually PSB buffer from precision reloading)
-Crimping device (fold with a press or roll with a bit).
-If roll crimping, overshot card.
Depending on the specific recipe, you will also need some of:
-gas seal
-nitro card
-cork spacers (particular thickness)
-felt spacers (particular thickness)
-mylar (between the shot and hull)
All recipes I've seen call for new primed hulls of a particular variety. Do not substitute hulls unless the substitute has been pressure tested. Primer, base wad, internal volume all play into pressure. If you buy from Hal or another reputable shot supplier, the recipe data has been tested and the loads are safe. Some hulls are ok to substitute. Others are not. Don't guess.
Usually fold vs. roll crimping is personal preference. If you're only making one type of load, you can get the height adjusted on your press and fold with no problem. If you're making multiple loads to test or for different guns or different applications, the overall length will usually be a little different. Adjusting the press every time can be a pain. Plus, with new hulls, you'll need a star bit crimp starter to fold. With a roll crimper, the hull length doesn't matter. But for roll crimping, I strongly recommend using a drill press. I have a table-top drill press from harbor freight. ~ $70.
There are other lille things that are extremely helpful depending on which gauge you're loading. You can trim hull length very clean and easy with dowel rod and exacto blade. A small pipe tamp is great for seating wads. You'll need something that vibrates to settle the buffer into the shot - large hair trimmers, brass tumbler, "personal massager," etc. And some type of block/caddie to hold the hulls while you're loading a batch.
-Hulls
-Powder
-Scale
-Wads
-Shot
-Buffer (usually PSB buffer from precision reloading)
-Crimping device (fold with a press or roll with a bit).
-If roll crimping, overshot card.
Depending on the specific recipe, you will also need some of:
-gas seal
-nitro card
-cork spacers (particular thickness)
-felt spacers (particular thickness)
-mylar (between the shot and hull)
All recipes I've seen call for new primed hulls of a particular variety. Do not substitute hulls unless the substitute has been pressure tested. Primer, base wad, internal volume all play into pressure. If you buy from Hal or another reputable shot supplier, the recipe data has been tested and the loads are safe. Some hulls are ok to substitute. Others are not. Don't guess.
Usually fold vs. roll crimping is personal preference. If you're only making one type of load, you can get the height adjusted on your press and fold with no problem. If you're making multiple loads to test or for different guns or different applications, the overall length will usually be a little different. Adjusting the press every time can be a pain. Plus, with new hulls, you'll need a star bit crimp starter to fold. With a roll crimper, the hull length doesn't matter. But for roll crimping, I strongly recommend using a drill press. I have a table-top drill press from harbor freight. ~ $70.
There are other lille things that are extremely helpful depending on which gauge you're loading. You can trim hull length very clean and easy with dowel rod and exacto blade. A small pipe tamp is great for seating wads. You'll need something that vibrates to settle the buffer into the shot - large hair trimmers, brass tumbler, "personal massager," etc. And some type of block/caddie to hold the hulls while you're loading a batch.
Southern Sportsman
Well-Known Member
P.S. Hal is a member here (hawglips). Though not much of a poster. I usually just email him.
