Making a Flemished String

[Oldschool]

I am trying to learn how to make my own flemished strings. I am using B-50 string material, shooting older bear traditional bows, and have my string jig ready to go. Question is about the serving materials, I am not sure about what size serving material to use. Any info would be appreciated.

 

[eddie c]

For me that is a tricky question also. I have some #4 and #3(I think)serving that I have used. both were free so I didnt really questioned which to used until recently when I got to thinking about arrow nock tightness. I noticed the same nocks were tighter on one string I made vs. another one I made. the difference was the severing material, one was thicker. I think #3 was thicker but dont quote me on that. I shoot carbons, the nocks are tighter than the nocks on my aluminum shafts.
A couple of things to look into is how many strands are going to be in your string, what typed of nocks you are using plus what thickness serving. you want your nocks to fit on the string but you dont want them so tight they want to hold the string when you shoot.
B50 string is thicker so I would go with the thinner serving material. If you know you will be using nocks with wider gap, go with the thicker serving. the newer string material is thinner, I would use the thicker serving with those.

clear as mud? :?

 

[Locksley]

I unstring my recurves after using them and hang them on a horizontal rack.

Like Eddie said, it should be OK to leave a modern laminated glass recurve strung, but I just don't like to do it. Personal choice.

I unstring my recurves after using them and hang them on a horizontal rack. Even my new Marin Saber and Prare-winds I unnstring after using them and hang them on a horizontal rack.

I unstring my recurves .

Do not use a fast-flite string like they use on compounds on the older bows either as it will destroy the bow ends.

The Bow String


Second only to the bow in importance is the bow string. The diameter is limited to the width of the arrow nock and a good bow string must maintain a constant length under repeated stress and in changing weather conditions. The string is subjected to unusually hard wear at the arrow nocking point and at the bow nocks. Since good strings are expensive, replac�ing worn strings can become a major item of expense. Bow�men quickly learn that it is economical to make their own bow strings.

Of the tried and available materials, linen or flax sinew, hemp, and fortisan, a synthetic yarn of rayon, are used generally in the manufacture of bow strings.

Hemp is the cheapest and least desirable of the materials and is generally found on the lower priced line of bows. Linen and fortisan each have their advocates among the shooting fraternity. Both make up into excellent bow strings. The pre�vailing weight of opinion favors fortisan, from which its users claim lighter and stronger strings can be made. Fortisan was employed during the last war as parachute shroud material.

The knack of laying a bow string in the professional manner is not easily acquired. An explanation of the technique can be very confusing and leave the novice completely frustrated. A far better way to the goal is to watch a demonstration by one who already has the acquired ability, and then attempt your first bow string under your instructor's supervision. This is par�ticularly applicable if you are going to use fortisan for the material, as the diameter of the individual strands is so small that it can be measured only by a micrometer. The weight of the bow is the determining factor in selecting the number of strands which are to be incorporated into the completed string. The manufacturer's recommendation of the number of strands required for bows of different drawing weights is shown in the accompanying table:

Drawing wt. Drawing wt.
Strands in lbs. Strands in lbs.
12 20-25 20 40~45
14 25-30 22 45-50
16 3O-35 24 50-55
18 35-40 26 55-6o

Walter Perry in his book Bucks and Boivs, devotes a chapter to describing the construction of a bow string. The necessary jig and various steps in one method of "laying" a string are well illustrated.

The author learned to shoot a bow before fortisan was avail�able for bow strings. When it first appeared I adopted the "wait and see" view point or "let George do it" since the material was fairly expensive. It still is. A good fortisan bow string sells for $1.50. A second and compelling reason for sticking to linen as the material from which I made the bow strings used in my family was that I never had learned to lay a string in the professional manner used by the manufacturer or by my archer friends who have acquired the trick and have the necessary tools and jigs. Several seasons have passed and from personal observation I have concluded that the linen bow string built by a simple method taught me by an archer of my acquaintance is comparable to the hand laid fortisan bow string. Since three strings have been enough to last me an entire season I see no good reason for changing either the material or the simple method I use to build them.

The single loop string is rapidly losing in favor to the double loop. The one advantage of the single loop string is that it can be used on bows of different lengths. However, this is outweighed by the difficulty encountered in stringing the bow to the correct fistmele. Several trials may have to be made before the correct fistmele is achieved and the hitch must be loosened to lengthen or shorten the bow string for each attempt.
Assuming that you have purchased a bow recently, it may or may not have included an extra bow string in the purchase price. You should always have a spare in your kit, and practice the habit of checking the string at intervals during a shoot. If your arrows suddenly begin to fall low on the target, check the height of the fistmele; it may be decreasing: If it is, check the bow string closely and discard it at once if it is showing signs of elongation due to -worn and broken fibres. If the bow string appears sound or you are uncertain of its condition, change bow strings; and if the trouble still persists and the fistmele increases, examine your bow carefully for signs of checks or cracks. The bow may be letting down, and to con�tinue to shoot it will result in a broken bow with possibilities of personal injuries. Even a sound bow may break as the tension is suddenly released when a string breaks.

The first step in making a double loop string for your bow is to make certain that the finished product will be of the required length. Select a place where three finishing nails may be driven in the woodwork at waist level and permitted to remain, Figure 39.



Figure 39.

Drive nail number 1, allowing it to project about one inch from the woodwork. Place one loop of your bow string over the nail and stretch the string to its full length. Drive the second nail in position so that the second loop may be slipped over the nail head and the bow string will be under slight tension. Drive the third nail one foot beyond the second nail in a prolongation of the line formed by the bow string. The three nails will now be at points on the same straight line. They are in the correct position and are all the jig that is actually required to build a bow string.

I use "Barbours" number 7 pure flax sinew manufactured especially for use in lock stitch machines by The Linen Thread Company, Inc., of New York for bow string material. A four ounce spool should sell for approximately $1.00 and from it you will be able to make bow strings for several seasons. Your local shoe repairman probably carries this material in stock or can secure it for you. In addition you will need a lump of beeswax about the size of an English walnut shell and a spool of number eight cotton thread. The latter item can generally be found in the wife's sewing basket. I use four strands of linen for a 30 pound bow and five strands for a 40 pound bow.


Tie the end of the linen cord to the number 1 nail, Fig�ure 39, and take a turn around the number 3 nail and then back and around number 1. Continue until you have the de�sired number of strands stretched lightly between numbers 1 and 3 nails. Take your penknife and sever the linen thread at the points where it passes around nails numbers 1 and 3. For a 40 pound bow you will now have five strands of equal length.

Measure seven inches in from one end of the strands and mark with a soft pencil. You will need both hands for the next operation. Use a vise, or a similar device, to clamp the bundle of strands together so that the ends project for a length of seven inches from the jaw. Wax these projecting strands thoroughly. The next step is to make a "pig tail plat." Any feminine member of the family can teach you how to make one in a couple of minutes. Briefly the procedure is this: divide the individual strands into three groups. In this case two of the groups will be composed of two strands and the remaining strand will be the third group, a Figure 40. Twist the strands in group one a few times so that they form a single cord. Do the same for the strands in group number three. Now to plat; hold number two in place and bring cord number one, which is the cord on your left, up and over cord number two and lay it between cords numbered two and three, b Figure 40. Next take the outside group on the right, number three in this case and bring it up and over and lay it between numbers one and two. Maintain a slight pressure on each group of cords at all times so that the completed work is closely bound together. Repeat the performance, beginning each time at your left by picking up that group and laying it between the two re�maining groups, then to your right, etc.

The length of the plat that you will need is determined by measuring the distance around the loop of the string which came with your bow. Caution: each bow string has a large and a small loop. Construct yours accordingly. One loop is of suf�ficient diameter to permit it to slide down the upper bow limb when the bow is unbraced. A snug fitting lower loop stays in position while the bow is being braced or strung. Remove the work from the vise and bring the ends of the plat together. This will be the size of the completed loop. Slip the tip of the bow limb through the loop and check the loop for size. Remove the loop from the bow limb and clamp the loop in the vise, leav�ing about y8 inch of the ends of the plat projecting from the jaws of the vise.
The next step is to tie in the loop. Separate the main strands into three groups similar in composition to the original three groups with which you started. Now combine a cord of two strands of the first group with a cord of a single strand of the second group, the cord of one strand of the first group with a cord of two strands of the second group, and the cord con�taining the remaining two strands of the first group with a like cord of the second group. The resultant will be a group of three cords composed of three, three, and four strands re�spectively. You are now ready to plat your tie in. Make this tie in plat about one and a quarter inches in length. Pull to straighten and wax the completed tie in. Cut off the projecting ends of the cords and your first loop is completed. For addi�tional strength you may wrap this tie in with a length of the number eight cotton thread in a manner described later in this chapter.

Place this loop over nail number one in Figure 39, and straighten out the five main strands and stretch them lightly around nail number two. Measure the circumference of the other loop of your original bow string which you are using as a pattern, and mark a point with a soft pencil on the main strands between nails numbered one and two, a distance from nail number two equal to half of the circumference of the loop. This marks the beginning of the plat.

Build the second loop just as you did the first. Do not be alarmed if the strands appear to get tangled as you plat the tie in of the second loop. The only precaution you should observe is to see that the apparent tangle remains a loose one. When you have completed the second loop, let the strands fall into position and string the bow with your new string. If you have had ordinary luck on your first attempt to build a string, the fistmele will not be quite high enough. Now unbrace the bow and remove the lower loop from the limb. Turn this loop several times between the thumb and forefinger so that a twist is formed in the main strands. Replace the loop and brace the bow. The result of this act is to shorten the bow string. Re�peat the operation, if necessary, until the fistmele measures the proper height after an arrow has been nocked and the bow brought to full draw several times. It should be apparent that any error made in determining the proper length to build the string must be made so that the completed string is longer than necessary. The method described will permit shortening a double looped string but there is no method by which it can be lengthened if it is built too short.

Waxing
With the new string installed on the bow, take a piece of bees wax and draw it up and down the bow string several times. Next, cut a piece of leather from the tongue of a discarded pair of shoes. The leather pad should measure about two inches by three inches. Stand the bow upright with the lower bow nock braced against the instep of one foot and one hand grasp�ing the upper limb near the nock, with the bow string toward you. Fold the leather around the string. Place the ends to�gether and grasp with the hand which is not holding the bow. Pull to apply pressure and slide the leather rapidly up and down the entire length of the bow string. The friction between the leather and the bow string will generate heat which will melt the bees wax and it will permeate the bow string.

Serving

The final operation in building a bow string that will give satisfactory service is to provide protection for the string at the point where the most wear will occur. This is that portion of the bow string with which the arrow nock and the fingers come in contact. This operation is called, "serving the string." Nock an arrow and lay it across the arrow plate of the bow or on the arrow rest, if the bow is equipped with one. To determine the exact nocking point on the string use a carpenter's square or a rectangular piece of cardboard to position the arrow so that it makes a 90 degree or right angle with the string. Mark the bow string at the top and bottom of the arrow nock with a soft lead pencil. Place your drawing fingers in their proper position on the bow string and mark additional points on the string about one inch beyond the space on the bow string occupied by your fingers. These latter points mark the portion of the bow string which needs additional reinforce�ment against wear.

Draw off several feet of the number eight cotton thread from the spool. Wax this length of thread thoroughly and then rewind it on the spool. Turn the bow to a horizontal position with the bow string toward you. Fix the bow firmly in this posi�tion, or if you wish, put cloth pads on the jaws of your vise, and clamp the handle in the vise with the string uppermost. Begin the serving at the point marked on the bow string nearest to the upper nock of the bow and work toward the lower bow nock.



Figure 41.

Figure 41 shows how the thread is secured at the be�ginning of the serving process. Make several loops; each one binds the end portion of the serving string or thread to the bow string. Draw the loops firm and snug, one against the other. Then clip off the exposed end of the serving thread. Be care�ful and cut away from the bow string to avoid an accidental severing of the completed portion of the work. Continue the winding until you reach the upper arrow nock mark. Reverse and wind back about one-quarter of an inch, then forward to form a small hump on the bow string. Figure 42.

Figure 42.

Continue serving the bow string to the lower arrow nock mark on the bow string. Transfer this mark to the winding or serving for refer�ence and wind or serve for an additional one-quarter of an inch. Reverse and wind back to the point or mark on the winding, which is the location of the bottom of the arrow nock; reverse the direction and wind forward again until you come to a point on the bow string about one-quarter of an inch from the lower limit of winding mark. The arrow nocking point has now been permanently fixed and the bow string is pro�tected against wear at its vulnerable section by the serving thread.

There remains only the trick of tieing off the serving thread. Hold a large loop of the serving thread at point a, Figure 42, and continue serving, but pass the spool inside the loop and wrap loosely toward the arrow nocking point. Take about eight turns around the bow string. Lay the spool down so that the serving thread lays along the top of the bow string at b in Figure 42. Grasp the loop near point a and continue winding. Regardless of the particular part of the operation on which you are engaged; the serving is always wound around the bow string in the same direction. Winding the large loop will bind that portion of the serving thread which extends to the spool, to the bow string, and each succeeding turn of the loop will remove one of the turns of the serving thread which you previously made through the loop and at the same time add a turn to the portion of the serving which is binding the spool end of the thread to the bow string. When you have unwound the final one of these eight temporary loops, hold the large loop under tension with a finishing nail held in the left hand. Grasp the spool with the right hand and draw the serving thread until the loop is drawn through and completely out of the serving. Pull the finishing nail just as the loop begins to bind the nail against the bow string. In performing this opera�tion make the direction of the draw along the bow string to prevent breaking the thread, which can readily be done if you pull at right angles to the bow string. When the final wrap has been drawn snugly in place, cut the thread and wax the serving thoroughly in the same manner the bow string was waxed. The new bow string is complete and ready to use.

http://www.archeryequipment.org/archeryequipment21.php


and rayon thread
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/search/search.aspx?
keywords=rayon

How to Make a Bowstring
THE ARCHER who shoots a great deal will find that the item of greatest expense is bowstrings. A well made,double looped string sells cheaply. Since bowstrings wear out with distressing rapidity, the frugal archer will think of making his own. I had not intended to go into tackle making, but because of importance and economy the bowstring is included.
By trial and error, which process extended over a long period of time, we evolved a process of making double looped strings that seems simple enough to him. It may be, however, that the tyro will think otherwise before he"gets his hand in." There are two materials that make good strings; these are linen and Florissant. Linen needs no definition as it has been staple fibre for centuries. Florissant is a rather recent creation,being a product of rayon. There are differences of opinions,among experts, as to which makes the better string; the verdict seems to be that a linen string is easier to make while Florissant string may last longer. The writer advises the be-g inner to work with linen first. The details of making are the same with either product.

A double looped string is, more or less, tailor made to fit given bow. Since the length of a string cannot be changeover 1/2 inch or so after it is made, it follows that measurements must be pre-determined and accurate. It is, therefore,necessary to have some kind of a device that will assure a con-st ant measure of accuracy; the string board meets these requirements. See Fig. 42. A string board is very simple to make; all that is required is a board 5 inches wide and 29 inches long, one small cotter pin and a few headless nails. The board should be of a close grain wood such as poplar, birch or mahogany. It should be dressed and sanded smooth; the corners and edges should be rounded.

Draw a center line down the board. Set dividers at 1/4inches; place one point on the center line, at one end of the board, mark positions on both sides of the center lines landmark them A and B. Do the same at the other end of the board and mark them C and D. Place a square 21/2 inches from the end of the board and draw a line across it; do the sam eat the other end of the board. You now have laid out rectangle 2 1/2 inches wide and 24 inches long on the board.
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How to Make a Bowstring
THE ARCHER who shoots a great deal will find that the item of greatest expense is bowstrings. A well made,double looped string sells cheaply. Since bowstrings wear out with distressing rapidity, the frugal archer will think of making his own. I had not intended to go into tackle making, but because of importance and economy the bowstring is included.
By trial and error, which process extended over a long period of time, we evolved a process of making double looped strings that seems simple enough to him. It may be, however, that the tyro will think otherwise before he"gets his hand in." There are two materials that make good strings; these are linen and Florissant. Linen needs no definition as it has been staple fibre for centuries. Florissant is a rather recent creation,being a product of rayon. There are differences of opinions,among experts, as to which makes the better string; the verdict seems to be that a linen string is easier to make while Florissant string may last longer. The writer advises the be-g inner to work with linen first. The details of making are the same with either product.

A double looped string is, more or less, tailor made to fit given bow. Since the length of a string cannot be changeover 1/2 inch or so after it is made, it follows that measurements must be pre-determined and accurate. It is, therefore,necessary to have some kind of a device that will assure a con-st ant measure of accuracy; the string board meets these requirements. See Fig. 42. A string board is very simple to make; all that is required is a board 5 inches wide and 29 inches long, one small cotter pin and a few headless nails. The board should be of a close grain wood such as poplar, birch or mahogany. It should be dressed and sanded smooth; the corners and edges should be rounded.

Draw a center line down the board. Set dividers at 1/4inches; place one point on the center line, at one end of the board, mark positions on both sides of the center lines landmark them A and B. Do the same at the other end of the board and mark them C and D. Place a square 21/2 inches from the end of the board and draw a line across it; do the sam eat the other end of the board. You now have laid out rectangle 2 1/2 inches wide and 24 inches long on the board.


Figure 49. The String Board

Set the dividers at .4 inches. Begin at point A and mark positions down the left line until 13 have been so marked;do the same, beginning at point B, with the other side. Select drill a little smaller that the headless nails and drill holes1/2 inch deep down each line at the marked positions�26holes in all. Drive cotter pin at point A, cut off the head, and see that the slot points across the board. The reason for the cotter pin is that it makes a tension clamp to hold the thread;the thread may be pushed into the slot, an operation that does away with tying the thread at that point. Drive headless nail sin the drilled holes. See that the nails stand up straight and that they are of a uniform height�5/8 to 3/4 of an inch. Drive headless nails at point C and D. From where center line crosses line D-C, measure up the board 133/4 inches and mark this position. Make a notation on the board with a pencil,5 feet 8 inches point E. Set the dividers at 1/2 inch. Begin at point E (the 5 feet 8 inches position) and mark points up and down the board and drill at these positions�along the centerline. Lay out and mark the lines and numerals with ink as appears at the top of the sketch. Do the same at the lowe rend of the board. Make a cut out on left side of board as shown in sketch. The cut out is for the purpose of making it more convenient to get the finger under the threads at this point. Clean off board and varnish. When the varnish is dry, the board is ready to use.

Continued...



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[Locksley]

BOWSTRING DESIGN

Endless Loop Strings

Endless loop strings boast higher performance than Flemish twist strings but the performance difference is completely imperceptible without a chronograph if the strings have been properly crafted. With equal strand count and high quality strings of both types, the actual speed output difference is usually less than 3 feet per second. Some feel that Flemish twist strings are stronger because they have twice as many strands in the loop ends. Others feel that the Endless design is stronger because it has no twist to crimp the strands. Testing has revealed that endless loops are actually slightly stronger but that both designs are strong enough that the difference is academic and not a practical consideration. What is really gained with endless loops is an extremely durable loop end that has been served for protection and is a very stable design with minimal twist capable of being built to very precise specifications. Two strings coming off the same jig setting will be virtually identical and competition shooters use this to their advantage by switching strings regularly so their backup string is always exactly the same as the string they're currently shooting.

My endless loop designs allow for two-color strings that look very similar to the Flemish Twist design if casually observed... until the end loops are examined. Most competitors prefer single color string designs. The endless loops are not currently offered with the MountainMuffler silencing package, but still make very good and accurate hunting strings that are reasonably quiet when silenced with WoolieWisp silencers. The endless loop is a very good choice for archers who want to milk all the efficiency that they can out of their bows and who put a higher premium on string stability and very precise tolerances than they do on maximum noise reduction and aesthetics.

Flemish Twist StringsB50

The Flemish twist design is the most popular among Traditional archers because it's a time tested design with classical good looks that is generally considered to be quieter in than an Endless loop, although this, too can be debated. The Flemish twist is a fine string when properly crafted and can be quite artistic with many color combinations and "tracer" options available, so they can be quite personal and unique.
2-Lay or 3-Lay string? The "bundles" that comprise a Flemish twist string, also known as "lays" allow for various design differences. 2-Lay designs are made with 10, 12, 14, 16, or 18 strands and are normally in two accenting colors. A 3-Lay design is made with 9, 12, 15, or 18 strands and is normally made with two or three colors. The 3-Lay design is generally considered the superior of the two, but the practical difference isn't as significant as the cosmetic difference with the smaller, tighter twists creating a "finer" appearance at the loop ends. The working area of both types between the loop ends are very round and equally fine if they have been properly crafted and there is no performance difference between 2 and 3 bundle strings.

STRING MATERIALS

B500 Dacron

Dacron bowstrings were the standard 20 years ago. Older bows were designed with this type of string in mind. It is known to stretch and creep. Your brace height will definitely change over time and it could change pretty significantly. It's got a relatively low tensile strength, but it's safe, inexpensive and it's a very suitable bowstring for any bow. It definitely does not provide the high performance that Dyneema or Vectran blend strings offer. It's not as durable and is more prone to wear and breakage and should be replaced more often. It is the only string material I can recommend for bows that are not known to be fastflite compatible. Dacron is less expensive than the HMPE (High Modulus Polyethelene) materials and some people feel that it's more traditional. Some believe that dacron strings are more quiet than HMPE strings, although laboratory tests have proved that they're not quieter, just lower in pitch. Some people feel that it's been good enough for them for 20 years or more and so why switch. They get no argument from me. Choosing the material for your bow is subjective and personal and your choice of string material should always be based on what you prefer and what you like. With a MountainMuffler package, B50, Dynaflight97 or 450+ are all super-quiet resolving any issues about noise.

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