New bow or new strings?

[catman529]

Back from vacation with more money than I thought I would have... I plan to save some up before deer season and either have my bow re-strung by Matt at EnergyWave or buy a new (used) bow. Either way, I will be buying more arrows from EnergyWave so I have to factor in that cost as well. String is much cheaper, but my bow is an older Champion that doesn't shoot very flat, and I have been wanting to upgrade for a while. The Champion would be good for bowfishing when I get a new bow. However, it still kills deer and I think I could get by another season with it, with new strings. Help me decide. 10 inch drop between 20 and 30 yards and save money, or buy a newer used bow....

 

[Toxophilite Phil]

Hey if the bow still shoots and is a proven deer getter than I say keep it. A new bow doesn't kill them any more dead. So what if it drops a foot between 20 and 30. If you can put the arrow where it needs to be who cares. New strings will be a lot cheaper and new arrows can flatten the trajectory some but the choice s yours. Good luck in your decision and straight shootin'.

 

[W.Seay]

Depending on how old your bow is, the new bows are much better than say a 15 year old bow. You could go shoot a few newer bows to see if it's worth it to you.

 

[bowhunterfanatic]

Personally I'd have to go with a new bow. It would increase your margin of error slightly.

 

[bowhunter163]

No matter what anyone says your still gonna have quite a bit of arrow drop . Depending on your realistic FPS with your draw length and weight it will improve a little if you can get a set up close to 290 FPS . If your arrow is 450ish gr. and your shooting 70 lb. at let's say 290FPS you will still have around 7 inches of arrow drop between 20-30 . I can't remember what your draw length is and if its even realistic to find a bow that will shoot much faster than 290 with a hunting arrow set up . But having said that it is completely up to you weather you should get a newer bow . But speed would not be a deciding factor for me , because it just helps you miss faster . Lol
Im not saying you don't need newer equipment , because you would most certainly benefit from a newer bow . Smoother draws , more let off , quiter , and better efficiency are all things you could benefit from . Newer bows can just feel and shoot better to some people . But speed is overrated in my opinion and not something I would upgrade my bow for if I were you .

Your bow you have now has proven it can kill a deer just as good . If you do end up getting a newer bow I would recommend taking it to Matt and letting him set you up with the proper draw length and help you tune it right off the bat . It's amazing how much a proper fitting and tuned set up can help your shooting .

 

[UTGrad]

If you can afford it, I would suggest get a new (used) bow. Just an inch or two in reduction of arrow drop can make the difference in a perfect heart shot or an arrow that sails under a buck's belly.

A newer bow or new strings, either way let Matt help you out. He will steer you right.

 

[Crow Terminator]

A range finder will reduce all margin of error I would go with the most accurate bow I could find, that was also quiet and easy to draw. The range finder would take care of all yardage error. People look at speed WAY to much when they consider a new bow. I shoot local 3Ds with guys that have never even won a local shoot but they'll look at you like you're not from Earth if your bow doesn't shoot to their speed preferences. Obviously...it doesn't help them as much as they think it does or they'd at least won a local shoot. LOL. My bow is cruising along at a barn burning 259 fps and has been an absolute terror to people on the 3D courses. Accuracy brings home the trophy. Speed only brings happiness to those shooting through chronagraphs.

 

[UTGrad]

I disagree to an extent. If you are shooting a known yardage class speed is not as much a factor with an accurate sight tape. Hunting or unknown yardages speed helps. I'm not a speed freak but for hunting an inch or two can be the difference between a vital hit and a miss.

 

[bowhunter163]

I disagree to an extent. If you are shooting a known yardage class speed is not as much a factor with an accurate sight tape. Hunting or unknown yardages speed helps. I'm not a speed freak but for hunting an inch or two can be the difference between a vital hit and a miss.

I wasn't saying speed doesn't change anything . I was saying depending on his draw length , weight , and arrow weight on his current setup he probably won't gain a whole lot of speed with a newer bow .

I have the T- Rex arms with a short draw length so I have always shot really slow . And even if I had a 30" draw I would choose to shoot a 600 gr. arrow at 280 than shoot 330 FPS . Speed is way overrated , I agree Crow , and if I were Catman I would buy the bow that shot the best for me no matter what the speed . Heck you might even find you shoot your current bow better than anything else .

Crow had a good idea about buying a rangefinder if you don't already have one . Range a few objects in each direction inside your effective range and never be more than 1-2 yards off your yardage .

So I am on the speed is overrated side and although I do shoot faster speed bows because of my draw length . I do it so I can get the best kinetic energy possible for my T-Rex arms .

 

[catman529]

If I don't get a newer used bow, I will get the new strings and also a ripcord or NAP apache rest. I got a 20 and a 30 yard pin. A range finder would be nice but the not near the top of my list of things to buy. I have marked trees for yardage, and anything within 20 is perfectly guessable anyway.

 

[Radar]

Test out a few newer rigs and make up your mind from there . Bows have made significant improvements over the years , but if your older rig shoots good for you , keep it !

 

[deerhunter10]

I would go with a new bow there are good deals on both this site and archery talk. but I would pick up a range finder no matter what even if you max yardage is 30 yards ridges and tree stand can play tricks on your eyes. either way what ever you have more confidences you've killed a lot of deer with your current bow. new equipment is awesome and nice but its all up to you.

 

[UTGrad]

If I don't get a newer used bow, I will get the new strings and also a ripcord or NAP apache rest. I got a 20 and a 30 yard pin. A range finder would be nice but the not near the top of my list of things to buy. I have marked trees for yardage, and anything within 20 is perfectly guessable anyway.

Just throwing this out there since you mentioned a couple rests...I would take a look at either a whisker biscuit for simplicity or a Limb Driver (simple as well).

 

[UTGrad]

I wasn't saying speed doesn't change anything . I was saying depending on his draw length , weight , and arrow weight on his current setup he probably won't gain a whole lot of speed with a newer bow .

I have the T- Rex arms with a short draw length so I have always shot really slow . And even if I had a 30" draw I would choose to shoot a 600 gr. arrow at 280 than shoot 330 FPS . Speed is way overrated , I agree Crow , and if I were Catman I would buy the bow that shot the best for me no matter what the speed . Heck you might even find you shoot your current bow better than anything else .

Crow had a good idea about buying a rangefinder if you don't already have one . Range a few objects in each direction inside your effective range and never be more than 1-2 yards off your yardage .

So I am on the speed is overrated side and although I do shoot faster speed bows because of my draw length . I do it so I can get the best kinetic energy possible for my T-Rex arms .

I watched a guy at Archery Den with a 26" draw length about chit his britches when he shot his new Z7 through a chronograph. I think it was like 239 fps. He looked at Jeremy and asked if the chrono was broke lol. He was expecting the advertised 332 fps.

 

[catman529]

If I don't get a newer used bow, I will get the new strings and also a ripcord or NAP apache rest. I got a 20 and a 30 yard pin. A range finder would be nice but the not near the top of my list of things to buy. I have marked trees for yardage, and anything within 20 is perfectly guessable anyway.

Just throwing this out there since you mentioned a couple rests...I would take a look at either a whisker biscuit for simplicity or a Limb Driver (simple as well).

I have a biscuit and want to get a drop away to help reduce pulling shots

 

[TheAirMan]

My question is why a used bow. You could buy some Mission, Diamond, PSE, or Hoyt models new for the same price or hair more than a lot of used bows. That is if you want one that's not already pretty old. That way you will have new technology and a warranty.

 

[bowhunter163]

I wasn't saying speed doesn't change anything . I was saying depending on his draw length , weight , and arrow weight on his current setup he probably won't gain a whole lot of speed with a newer bow .

I have the T- Rex arms with a short draw length so I have always shot really slow . And even if I had a 30" draw I would choose to shoot a 600 gr. arrow at 280 than shoot 330 FPS . Speed is way overrated , I agree Crow , and if I were Catman I would buy the bow that shot the best for me no matter what the speed . Heck you might even find you shoot your current bow better than anything else .

Crow had a good idea about buying a rangefinder if you don't already have one . Range a few objects in each direction inside your effective range and never be more than 1-2 yards off your yardage .

So I am on the speed is overrated side and although I do shoot faster speed bows because of my draw length . I do it so I can get the best kinetic energy possible for my T-Rex arms .

I watched a guy at Archery Den with a 26" draw length about chit his britches when he shot his new Z7 through a chronograph. I think it was like 239 fps. He looked at Jeremy and asked if the chrono was broke lol. He was expecting the advertised 332 fps.

I've seen alot of guys do that ! Lol and I hear so many people say they are shooting over 300 FPS and they don't have a clue . All I have to do is ask poundage and draw length and I can pretty much tell them they are lying haha . It sucks to have a short draw that's for sure , but it beats trying to shoot a draw length that's too long for you like the majority of people do .

If I don't get a newer used bow, I will get the new strings and also a ripcord or NAP apache rest. I got a 20 and a 30 yard pin. A range finder would be nice but the not near the top of my list of things to buy. I have marked trees for yardage, and anything within 20 is perfectly guessable anyway.

Just throwing this out there since you mentioned a couple rests...I would take a look at either a whisker biscuit for simplicity or a Limb Driver (simple as well).

I have a biscuit and want to get a drop away to help reduce pulling shots

I would go with a limbdriver Pro V if your dead set on a fall away . I'm assuming your talking about getting the arrow off the rest quicker to reduce the effect of punching or torqued shots . I would recommend working on keeping the pin on the target u till you hear the arrow hit , like an exaggerated follow through . That will do triple what a new rest will do in terms of reducing flyers .
In target archery most people shoot a blade rest which gives alot of arrow guidance , the opposite of what you are wanting . This gives them the most forgiveness because if there pin isn't on the dot when the shot goes off sometimes it gives them time to get the pin back on target before the arrow leaves the rest .

Limbdriver Pro V would be a really good rest because it allows you to be able to fix most rest issues without having to take it to a bow shop every time . Also like Theairman said there are alot of new low to mid range bows in the same price range as a used older model too of the line bow . Just a my opinion but if I went new I would take a hard look at the PSE Drive from 2013 or the 14 Drive LT if you could afford it . The new Drive LT is what I'm going to hunt with and I can shoot any PSE I want . I'm just choosing to shoot it because it impressed me so much .

 

[UTGrad]

BH163 the difference is you know archery and the deductions from IBO speed with draw length, poundage, arrow weight, etc.

This guy had no clue. The look on his face after spending $1100 on a rig and it shoot under 240 fps was priceless lol

 

[UTGrad]

I have a biscuit and want to get a drop away to help reduce pulling shots

Just a heads up but if you have form issues causing pulled shots the drop away is not going to help a lot. If you're set on a drop away Matt sells the Limbdriver Pro V...awesome rest.

 

[ImThere]

Just do you homework before you buy a used bow. Some bows require more then modules to change draw length. It can get expensive buying a used bow, new cams and string to make the draw length right.