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Paper tuning question

wayne

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What do I need to do to straighten this out?
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Front...arrow going into paper. This is the bow my wife will be shooting so I can't see through the peep. I am aligning the string with the sights and anchoring as close to the same place as possible.
 
From the Easton tuning guide....

This tear indicates a stiff arrow reaction for
right-handed archers using finger release
(RF, CF). Left-handed finger release archers
will have an opposite pattern. This is an
uncommon tear for right-handed
compound archers using a mechanical
release (CR). However, it can occur and generally
indicates that the arrow rest position is too far to the right
or that there is possible vane contact on the inside of the
launcher rest.
 
I moved the rest to the left but to get close to a bullet hole the arrow is extremely left of center. Could it still be too stiff of a spine? And how much would draw legth affect spine? I adjusted the DL for me(27.5") Her DL will be closer to 24.5-25.
 
Take a half inch off your DL if your using a string loop. What poundage are you shooting? You could be using to heavy of an arrow...also go to Bowhunting.com and type in paper tuning under search. This site will help you out....
 
Try weaker spined arrows or a heavier point to weaken the spine. Properly matched (spine) arrows are the first step in tuning a bow.
 
If the arrow looks to be way left of the center line, sounds like your top cam is leaning. Draw it back and see how the string tracks off the cam. Should come straight off the cam, not to the side. If it is leaning you'll have to add twists to one side of the split buss to pull it back. Also looks like you've got two slightly different size tears, so make sure you shoot it with an open grip so you don't torque it.
 
Paper tuning is an art...if someone really knows how to do it, it can be beneficial. However, I do not think it neccissary. I dont really care what my arrow is doing two feet from my bow. Also depending on the distance you are from paper you will see a different tare.

I tune my bows by manufature specs on the center shot and walk back tuning...
 
BowGuy84 said:
Paper tuning is an art...if someone really knows how to do it, it can be beneficial. However, I do not think it neccissary. I dont really care what my arrow is doing two feet from my bow. Also depending on the distance you are from paper you will see a different tare.

I tune my bows by manufature specs on the center shot and walk back tuning...

Yeah, I have tried to paper tune my bow without any luck..It just makes me crazy trying to read the tears..I took Radar's advice a year or so ago, and did a little walkback tuning..My bow is shooting really well right now i am putting field tips and broadheads right on top of each other at all distances up to 40-yds..

I shot it thru paper again just to see what kind of tear I had and it was ugly...I say "heck with the bullet holes"!
 
I paper tune for nock height then walkback tune for centershot. On my hunting bows the next step is broadhead tuning.
 
JayMc said:
I paper tune for nock height then walkback tune for centershot. On my hunting bows the next step is broadhead tuning.

Yeah, it makes me feel real good when I can stack field tips and broadheads real close...... It is a confidence builder...I will throw a broadhead in the mix even during the offseason..
 
First off, check to see if you are getting clean clearance on the rest and cables. If your arrow is hitting anything passing through then you cannot get a clean hole, ever. That is usually why, some people cannot ever get the tear they want.

Second, don't line the string up with your sight. Line it up, visually with the tip of your arrow, and set your rest to center shot. If your sight is not set to centershot lining the string to track with it will generate a fishtail. The string wants to track to center. This is the place to start.

The way you hold your bow will affect this. The way you operate your release will affect this. Your follow through will affect this. So while you can definately improve her setup, ultimately you will need to set the bow up to her.

So, if the arrows are passing through without any deflection. And your properly aligned to the center. The tiller is set correctly. The grip is light and relaxed and you are standing directly behind the paper at approximately 9-10 feet from the arrow point at full draw. So, I would move the rest approximately 1/16 of an inch to the right (toward the bow) for a right hand shooter.
 
Paper tuning is not necessarily the end all of bow tuning. It is a good start and a great tool. Start with the paper tune. Then try the walk back method. Then tune with broadheads.

And if all else fails go to a stiffer arrow. 90% of the bows I have had trouble getting to tune were shooting arrow to light for their setup. Everybody wants more speed. But arrow stiffness is not a good compromise for more speed.
 

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