• Help Support TNDeer:

posted this on the reloading forum, any ideas?

Something wrong with ejector to damage the case like that. Brand new or just new to you, I would not be shooting the pistol until I had it checked out.

BTW, reloads? How hot? You have a charge in weight, primer, powder, and bullet weight & Type?

Get any smoke out of the ejector port?
 
I have seen this type of extractor damage before.

Here is a copy and paste from an article I read once about the exact same thing you are seeing. He was shooting a P3AT:



"You will notice the nick in the rim fits the extractor... the rolled edge of the casing would line up with the lower part of the chamber, and the slight flat spot on the side, about 1/3 the overall distance from the rim, would fit with the barrel hood. These guns are made to extremely tight specs to operate properly, and made about as small and lightweight as a .380 round will allow. The dings are evidence of the extreme engineering that went into these pistols.

If you don't reload, you have nothing to worry about with new brass. A nick in the rim of the case will have no effects on performance. The .380 headspaces on the mouth, so no worries there. One major thing to worry about as a reloader is incipient head separation caused by weak brass. this is when the case web fails and separates, and could cause kb."

Hope that helps
 
Looks to me to be just the extractor digging in the case. Might not do it at all with another brand of ammo. I'm assuming these are factory loads and that you don't intend to load for it. If so then I wouldn't worry about it because you won't be using the cases again. There is nothing unsafe about gouging the extractor groove. I've seen several semi-autos that do such case damage.

Have you tried another brand of ammo?
 
backstraps said:
I have seen this type of extractor damage before.

Here is a copy and paste from an article I read once about the exact same thing you are seeing. He was shooting a P3AT:



"You will notice the nick in the rim fits the extractor... the rolled edge of the casing would line up with the lower part of the chamber, and the slight flat spot on the side, about 1/3 the overall distance from the rim, would fit with the barrel hood. These guns are made to extremely tight specs to operate properly, and made about as small and lightweight as a .380 round will allow. The dings are evidence of the extreme engineering that went into these pistols.

If you don't reload, you have nothing to worry about with new brass. A nick in the rim of the case will have no effects on performance. The .380 headspaces on the mouth, so no worries there. One major thing to worry about as a reloader is incipient head separation caused by weak brass. this is when the case web fails and separates, [color:#FF0000]and could cause kb[/color]."

Hope that helps
Click to expand...

The reply you pasted is a good one, but the last four words make it a classic. :D :grin:
 
Thanks everyone. These are my reloads. I have some factory loads im going to try and see if they do the same thing. The brass was Starline which is not the best you can buy. By the way whats "kb"? The gun bought used and im just starting to use it some.
 
Starline brass is excellent generally. It could be possible you have a softer lot. I would look at the chamber to make sure it is clean and smooth as the case seems to be sticking while the extractor is attempting to pull it out. Also check your reload data to verify it is not too hot.
 
Starline brass is amongst the most desirable-very very high quality. Your ejector is digging that hole in the brass. A hot load will aggravate the damage and, theoretically, that weak spot could result in a case rupture when you pulled the trigger. Hence the kaboom. I have seen pics of a 22LR in a Kimber pistol that somehow had a case rupture. The escaping gas cut the Kimber steel like a knife through butter. Be doggone careful.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top