TN Whitetail Freak
Well-Known Member
How do I go about beginning with new sight and rest
Process You take to Bow Tune
- Thread starter TN Whitetail Freak
- Start date
DixieCrafter
Well-Known Member
After you go through the process a time or two it gets really easy! My best recommendation is that you learn all you can to acquire the knowledge, skill, and confidence to work on your own equipment. This will be time and effort well spent!
Before I tell you my process, may I impart this little pearl of wisdom to you? Whoever said "Don't sweat the small stuff" was never an archer! In all forms of archery you need to sweat the small stuff because at the very worst possible moment,Mr. Murphy will rear his ugly head and bite you on the backside with these overlooked details!
When I acquire a bow that is new to me the first thing I like to do is take the bow down by removing the string, cables, limbs, limb bolts and so forth. Once this is done I clean and grease the limb pockets and limb bolts to avoid any future problems with noise and creaking on the draw. Then it's time to re-assemble the bow to check that the bow is in spec and the cams are timed and synced. Make sure everything is tight that should be.
Next I set the draw weight where I want it, for the arrows I have selected to shoot with this set-up. Then I put the bow in a bow vise and level the bow in both the x and y planes. I mount the rest that I am going to use and make sure it is snugged down tight and level. At this time I use a level on the bowstring and one on the shaft of the arrow. I put the arrow with attached level onto the bowstring and look for the nocking point placement and for most rests today that will be level to a 1/4 bubble level nock high as the best starting point.
Once I find my nocking point I tie it in with .014 Halo serving and than I tie below the arrow nock also. Then I tie my d-loop onto the bowstring. At this point we have the bow's rest vertical set at a starting point and next I eyeball the correct windage left/right setting for the rest.
Next I usually install the peep in the string to it's correct height and relationship to the sight I have mounted. Once this is done I tie in the peep and triple check it's position! The sight I have mounted will be leveled in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd axis. Then I will set the the pin by eyeballing the left/right and up/down to be close.
This is where I begin the paper tuning process to adjust the rest for the best arrow flight possible. When I'm happy with the paper tune, it's time to go outside to set up the sight at 20 yds. When you adjust you pins for the arrow's point of impact always follow your arrow. Hitting left move sight pin left and so forth!
Then you can pursue other forms of tuning if you so choose!
Before I tell you my process, may I impart this little pearl of wisdom to you? Whoever said "Don't sweat the small stuff" was never an archer! In all forms of archery you need to sweat the small stuff because at the very worst possible moment,Mr. Murphy will rear his ugly head and bite you on the backside with these overlooked details!
When I acquire a bow that is new to me the first thing I like to do is take the bow down by removing the string, cables, limbs, limb bolts and so forth. Once this is done I clean and grease the limb pockets and limb bolts to avoid any future problems with noise and creaking on the draw. Then it's time to re-assemble the bow to check that the bow is in spec and the cams are timed and synced. Make sure everything is tight that should be.
Next I set the draw weight where I want it, for the arrows I have selected to shoot with this set-up. Then I put the bow in a bow vise and level the bow in both the x and y planes. I mount the rest that I am going to use and make sure it is snugged down tight and level. At this time I use a level on the bowstring and one on the shaft of the arrow. I put the arrow with attached level onto the bowstring and look for the nocking point placement and for most rests today that will be level to a 1/4 bubble level nock high as the best starting point.
Once I find my nocking point I tie it in with .014 Halo serving and than I tie below the arrow nock also. Then I tie my d-loop onto the bowstring. At this point we have the bow's rest vertical set at a starting point and next I eyeball the correct windage left/right setting for the rest.
Next I usually install the peep in the string to it's correct height and relationship to the sight I have mounted. Once this is done I tie in the peep and triple check it's position! The sight I have mounted will be leveled in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd axis. Then I will set the the pin by eyeballing the left/right and up/down to be close.
This is where I begin the paper tuning process to adjust the rest for the best arrow flight possible. When I'm happy with the paper tune, it's time to go outside to set up the sight at 20 yds. When you adjust you pins for the arrow's point of impact always follow your arrow. Hitting left move sight pin left and so forth!
Then you can pursue other forms of tuning if you so choose!
Hop on over to Archery Talk and find "Nuts & Bolts tuning guide". He goes into a lot of detail on everything. It's a great read to go through, for beginners, intermediate, and advanced archers alike.
Agreed on Alan aka Nuts and Bolt's tuning guide. He used to give free advice through PM on AT but now hes directing folks to his site and charging. I was lucky and got invaluable training on shooting a hinge through PM.
What scale is best to determine peak draw weight and holding weight?
HOOK
Well-Known Member
wjohnson1983 said:
Your overall comfort level in maintaining draw, hold, and accuracy....
I'm still shooting my old Matthew's MQ1 which I think maxes out at 70 lbs. My question was when tuning the bow what scale does one use to determine if you're pulling 50 lbs, 60lbs .... if it matters at all? Most of the ones I've heard of/looked at don't seem to have very good customer opinions.
