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Range finder question

bassinbrian

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My range finder dosent have the arc technology. to judge distances for bow hunting should I range from the bottom of the tree to known targets, or range from tree stand to objectes at eye level? Which is best for true distance?
 
I bought a new rangefinder this year after my Leupold stopped working. My Leupold compensated for the angle in elevated positions. The most variation I ever saw was 2 yards. I've practiced from elevated spots and didn't see any benefit of the compensation feature. I bought a high quality Nikon that does not have the angle compensation feature for less $$$.
 
ok, so say im 20ft. high and have a target at 40 yds, am I 2ft high or low? I do practice from elevated stands but want to make sure each shot i take is a good ethical shot.
 
bassinbrian said:
ok, so say im 20ft. high and have a target at 40 yds, am I 2ft high or low? I do practice from elevated stands but want to make sure each shot i take is a good ethical shot.

You will not need to make an adjustment of two feet in this scenario. You would shoot completely over or under the deer. I aim for the heart. If the deer loads it's legs and lowers its back its a double lung hit. If it doesn't move at all it will either hit the heart or hit a tad high into both lungs due to the elevations change. I'm talking like 1-3 inches difference. The best thing you can do is practice from elevated positions. I used to shoot off my sister's deck if I couldn't get into a stand for practice.
 
bassinbrian said:
ok, so say im 20ft. high and have a target at 40 yds, am I 2ft high or low? I do practice from elevated stands but want to make sure each shot i take is a good ethical shot.

Given that scenario, your point of impact will be roughly where you aimed; however, the steeper the angle the higher your point of impact will be from where you aimed. For example, if you are 20ft high and your target is 10 yards your point of impact will be roughly 1" higher, or so depending on your setup, than where you aimed. However, the further away from you the target is the more time it has to react, so in the case you presented I would put my pin on the heart and plan on the deer reacting and my arrow hitting the mid-point and catching both lungs, and maybe the top of the heart if I'm lucky.

As far as where to range.....I always range from my tree to various obvious points on the ground (stumps, rocks, misc objects, trees, barespots, etc...) as soon as I get in tree and at various times of boredom during the hunt to set my perimeter and memorize those set yardages in case I don't have time to range the deer when the moment of truth happens. If you're hunting private land and have set stand locations, you can go in before season with different colors of flagging tape and tape off a perimeter around your stand using corresponding colors that represent certain yardages. Unless you will be shooting very, very extreme long-distance angles, you will find the angle compensating feature is not needed for 95% of the terrain around here�2yd distance difference most of the time as previously mentioned, which means that it doesn't mean a lot, as it is within 98% of all archers tolerances of accuracy.

Practice at varying yardages to see what difference your point of impact is at those corresponding yardages.
 
UTGrad said:
I bought a new rangefinder this year after my Leupold stopped working. My Leupold compensated for the angle in elevated positions. The most variation I ever saw was 2 yards. I've practiced from elevated spots and didn't see any benefit of the compensation feature. I bought a high quality Nikon that does not have the angle compensation feature for less $$$.

EXACTLY CORRECT!!!

We have done side by side comparisons of the ARC vs no ARC rangefinders.
Virtually no difference.

I bought the Nikon w/o ARC as well, UT.
 
Here is an eye opener for most of you.

Climb up about 15 feet.
Shoot at a target that is within 5 yards of your tree.

Do not shoot at the entire target, rather place a small 2 inch diameter spot on the target.

You will be surprised to learn that most bows will need to use their 30 yard pin.

This is good to know if you ever have this occur and need to avoid a limb at close range.
 

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