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Reloading 22-250 ?

J

J Hartman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2007
Messages
792
Location
Spring Hill, Maury, TN
I got a 22-250, I use for target shoots, and small game hunts. I do alot of target shooting and was thinking about buying what I need to reload this gun. I did some looking on midway, things looked reasonable.

But I can't figure out what type or grain of powder to put in?

What presses can I use? I've seen them from around 500 to 70, do I really need an expensive one? If all a better one does is save time, I'm not to worried about that.

What is a "Die set"?

Is reloading this caliber worth it?

Any other things you add are welcomed!



I'm just trying to keep it cheap right now. If I begin shooting more because my ammo is even cheaper I might buy an expensive press later, But I'd rather go cheap for now.
 
[font:Comic Sans MS]Yes, reloading for 22-250 is worth it and very satisfying.

First off, you need a couple of good books about reloading and a reloading manual. I'm an RCBS man myself but Lyman products are fine. You can get a starter kit which includes a press and all essential equip for basic reloading. The Lyman T-Mag turret press is handy as it holds 6 dies.

Your die set is the actual component that mounts to your press and you force up into to resize your shell casing to it's original SAAMI specs. (After shooting, brass stretches and it needs to be resized). The other set as part of your "die-set" is the bullet seating die. It seats the bullet onto your freshly resized, primed, and loaded case.

For my 22-250, I used only a neck-size die set and not a full length resize die.

You sound very green and I think you really need to do some reading but that's okay we all have to start at the beginning. Luckily there are many knowledgeable people you have access on here with. The internet is great for learning about reloading but just be careful what you find on the internet and always refer to a reputable reloading publication.

Good luck.


Leon[/font]
 
[font:Comic Sans MS]Just to add, it's rather difficult to 'just get in cheap'. I don't know your threshold as it defines "cheap". You'll discover that you need more than just a press and some dies. That starter kit usually comes with scales, press, trimmer, and some case prep tools.

You'll soon discover that this equip is basic and you'll additionally require a case vibratory or tumbler cleaner, a very sturdy if not custom made steel table or beefy wooden work bench. Regular tables won't handle the stress of you manipulating the press handle. Additionally, you'll need at minimum 2 different kinds of powder for load test comparisons, brass, bullets, primers.

Before you know it, you'll have spent $1000 or close to it. I have probably $4000 into my set up counting multiple die sets, upgraded equipment, and bulk supplies of brass, bullets and powder for about 10 calibers I reload for.

Have fun and read, read, read.


Leon[/font]
 
Yeah, I am wanting to spend around 500 for starters... I was looking at a hornady class kit press (this kit comes with a reloading book, and alot of information about it)... So changing the die allows for the different calibers? I am definately green on this reloading subject. But I'm hoping to find out everything I need to know about it. At least enough to know how to do it properly. I enjoy shooting this gun caliber and will hopefully be able to save some money on ammo in the future by reloading.
 
I have a pretty heavy duty stainless steel table, that should work fine for the table.


Hillybilly I'll look up that varget powder too, thanks for the info, How many grains of powder go into that shell? I keep hearing 55grain bullet but nothing about the powder.
 
I think H-380 got it`s name from using 38.0 grs of powder and a 55-60 gr bullet,,,any powder from 3031 to 4350 has promise,,I think around 40 grs is all the 250 case will hold,,,

buy now or forever hold your peace..
 
I taught myself to handload after readin a few manuals. Looking back it was very easy but nerve wracking as I didn't want to blow-up my gun! All of the kits offered by all the makers are good to go but they do not include the most important tool. That tool is the caliper. You WILL need a quality caliper to check the length of the sized cases and the length of the cartridge.
If I was you I'd buy a reloading manual and look over it real good. The manuals from the bullet makers contain more load data using different powders than the powder makers. The powder makers print a few loads with popular bullets with a caliber. The bullet guys print their bullets with 10-15 different powders.
I like the Sierra manual the most. They print very conservative start and max charges that are safe(even the maximum charge) The printed direction are very straight forward and easy to understand. They make the best bullets and even offer a 'help-line' to call if you need it. I've called the help-line several times and the experts on the other end of the line helped me to figure out what I was doing wrong!
 
hard to go wrong with Sierra Bullets,,I shoot alot of Hornadys at game animals,,but when it comes down to hitting a spot,Sierra is hard to beat.
 
I use 34.5 grains of Varget with a 60 Nosler Pertition. I am thinking I use 36 grains with a 55 gr Nosler BT.


Disclaimer. The above loads were eorked up specifically for my gun. They may or may not be apropriate for you gun. Use and obey a reloading manual when working up a load.
 
firefox said:
I taught myself to handload after readin a few manuals. Looking back it was very easy but nerve wracking as I didn't want to blow-up my gun! All of the kits offered by all the makers are good to go but they do not include the most important tool. That tool is the caliper. You WILL need a quality caliper to check the length of the sized cases and the length of the cartridge.
If I was you I'd buy a reloading manual and look over it real good. The manuals from the bullet makers contain more load data using different powders than the powder makers. The powder makers print a few loads with popular bullets with a caliber. The bullet guys print their bullets with 10-15 different powders.
I like the Sierra manual the most. They print very conservative start and max charges that are safe(even the maximum charge) The printed direction are very straight forward and easy to understand. They make the best bullets and even offer a 'help-line' to call if you need it. I've called the help-line several times and the experts on the other end of the line helped me to figure out what I was doing wrong!
Click to expand...



I have a set of calipers somewhere... But reading it? ? ? Not too sure about that. I'll have to find the digital ones.
 
J Hartman said:
firefox said:
I taught myself to handload after readin a few manuals. Looking back it was very easy but nerve wracking as I didn't want to blow-up my gun! All of the kits offered by all the makers are good to go but they do not include the most important tool. That tool is the caliper. You WILL need a quality caliper to check the length of the sized cases and the length of the cartridge.
If I was you I'd buy a reloading manual and look over it real good. The manuals from the bullet makers contain more load data using different powders than the powder makers. The powder makers print a few loads with popular bullets with a caliber. The bullet guys print their bullets with 10-15 different powders.
I like the Sierra manual the most. They print very conservative start and max charges that are safe(even the maximum charge) The printed direction are very straight forward and easy to understand. They make the best bullets and even offer a 'help-line' to call if you need it. I've called the help-line several times and the experts on the other end of the line helped me to figure out what I was doing wrong!
Click to expand...



I have a set of calipers somewhere... But reading it? ? ? Not too sure about that. I'll have to find the digital ones.
Click to expand...



calipers are very simple to read, as long as you are talking about dial calipers. Vernier calipers are a different story.
 

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