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Remington Primers

MUP

MUP

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I'm having a bad experience with the Remington LR Benchrest primers I have purchased. I went out to shoot a few weeks ago and had two ftf in about 20 rounds. Yesterday I went out and had 3 ftf within 9 shots attempted(same batch of primers) so I just called it off. I believe I have sufficient strike indents in the primers, but will (from Remington's last customer service rep's advice) attempt to fire from another rifle first to see if I get ignition. Has anyone else had any issues, or know of any using Rem LR Benchrest primers lately?
 
I don't use the Remington primers and am not aware of a recall. Remington is telling you to try them in a different rifle. Prime the brass no powder or bullet and fire them at your place you can test faster and you will be able to hear if you have primers that have been damp.

Could be the primers are part of a production mistake.

If the weapon is at fault you will find out quickly. Your FTF rate is very high. Make of Weapon? You check with rifle maker to see if recall or similar problems exist with other shooters?
 
sometimes the 7 1/2 and 9 1/2 and the Wolf magnums take more seating pressure to get consistant lighting,,,when you feel them bottom out give them a pretty good little squeeze pretty much hard as you can without deforming the primer itself,,the Rem Match primers are really tough to prevent piercing in high pressure loads,,

and they could just be a bad lot or got oil on them somehow
 
Has this rifle been used with other brand primers recently? That could tell you if it's the rifle or the primers. I've used a lot of the Remington small rifle benchrest primers (7 1/2)with no problems. You might also want to verify you've got enough firing pin protrusion and that the FP hole isn't all gunked up in the bolt.

I've never had a problem with ignition when seating to just below flush with the case head. That's how I seat all primers in everything - except of course shotshells.
 
This rifle has only shot factory ammo, Rem CorLokt's, and I'm just now reloading for it. I've used the Rem SR BR primers for my .223 loads by the hundreds so far without a single ftf. I did have a ftf using CorLokt ammo two years ago btw(in the 30-06). I'm going to try using some CCI primers and see if I have the same results first I believe, then try a "lighter" seating approach with the Remington's if warranted.
 
Unfortunately that's about all you can do. Change one thing at a time and see if you can find something that stops the problem.

I had some really aggravating failure to fire problems recently with my Marlin 336 35 Remington that seemed to be caused by several problems, some of which were 1) changing out the main spring for a lighter trigger pull, 2) dirt in the bolt firing pin hole, 3) possible failure to completely close the lever due to bullet jamming into the rifling. After cleaning the bolt and trimming the cases so that they were a bit under min length, which allowed me to crimp and keep the bullets out of the rifling to any significant degree, I got my failures to fire down from about 50% to 25%. Better but way too bad to even think of hunting with. The problem didn't completely go away until I reinstalled the factory main spring. I've since learned to live with a 8lb trigger pull. This was the 1st time a Wolf spring didn't work for me.
 
Well, as I said before, this is the initial stages of working up some kind of load for this rifle. The bullet is WAY away from the lands at this point, so far that if I tried to even reach the lands the loaded case wouldn't fit into my magazine. :) Anyway, this rifle probably hasn't seen 200 rounds fired lifetime, so I'm going to concentrate on the primers(brand), and loading them(me) for now. I'll report back when I can get some more loaded and back out to shoot. Hopefully today!
 
This is a bolt action you're having the problem with I'm assuming? If so, the problem I was suspecting with my Marlin 336 lever action of jamming the bullet into the lands shouldn't be an issue at all in your case. My problem was unique to the 336 design where a too long cartridge MIGHT prevent the lever from closing all the way, which MIGHT not lift the locking block up high enough to fully align the two halves of the firing pin, which MIGHT effectively shorten the firing pin giving less protrusion from the bolt face. A lot of possible events which may or may not ever really happen. The dirt in the firing pin hole was more significant than the bullet hitting the rifling. But the weaker aftermarket mainspring was the real root cause of my problem.

If you've been using factory Remington ammo, you were probably using the same primers. I'm interested in what you find out.
 
Steve, by any chance are these casings the ones that you cleaned with the stainless media and cleaner? Did you rinse it well? I have had a few bad primers myself lately (CCI), but I think I have figured it out... I have been cleaning my casings with Hoppes no 9 for years, but I cleaned the bases of a few to get off some sharpie, and I think that it worked like penetrating oil and ruined the primers. It's a possibility that the chemicals that you used left a residue that ruined the primers... Just a thought
 
Well, I loaded 21 cases this afternoon and headed out to my little practice range. 21 loaded rounds and 21 holes in paper using cci's! These are cases from the same batch tumbled with the ss media tumbler. They were dried well before loading by days even. If you guys remember, I had a ftf from a Remington Corlokt back in 2013 while trying to take a shot at a good buck. I'm leaning toward an issue with these BR primers at this point.
 
jlanecr500":2h1u4i4v said:
What is the rifle? I would disassemble the bolt and if possible, polish all metal to metal contact areas of the firing pin and the bolt body.
Click to expand...

It's a Rem Mod 710. I believe if it has fired 100% of the cci's then it had something to do with the Rem primers. Not that a good cleaning is a bad thing mind ya. :)
 

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