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Shooting house siding

cecil30-30

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Didn't want to high jack the other shooting house thread. But I'm getting ready to start construction on a few shooting houses. What's a good siding material to use? I was thinking of getting rough cut lumber and doing a board and batting style with a strip of lumber covering each joint so no wind gets through and painting it with a good exterior paint. Also thought about the plywood siding but I'll also be painting it. I can get rough cut lumber pretty cheap locally.
 
This is what I am thinking of using on mine. Composite so it should last a a long while once I get it finished up properly.

51BE8F67-3608-436A-A797-ACE9EEEE078C.png
 
I used the pre-primed T-111 type siding on the one that I built for my wife, the squirrels have done a number on it.

Used plain old OSB on my blind and did some random spray painting, at 3 years it's holding up well.
Posted pics of both in the other thread.
 
Used plywood bolted to the steel frame on the one I built. With where plywood is now, not sure. The wood on ours needs replaced, seriously thinking about going steel siding and using foam inside to help insulate and dampen sound.
 
We used osb sheathing and covered in metal....ordered metal flat stock with no ribs so it lays smooth....also ordered corner trim to seal corners....around window opening we used pressure treated and bought metal drip edge for over window....they cut the flat stock to the legnth we needed.... Post, bottom band and loft style steps are all pressure treated...plan to stain or seal exposed wood to hopefully extend life.
 

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I used the pre-primed T-111 type siding on the one that I built for my wife, the squirrels have done a number on it.

Used plain old OSB on my blind and did some random spray painting, at 3 years it's holding up well.
Posted pics of both in the other thread.
This is the most economical...

I caulk all window cut outs and any exposed edges. At $22 per 4x8 sheet, it's hard to beat. I have some made 10 years ago, and they are still as new.
 
This is the most economical...

I caulk all window cut outs and any exposed edges. At $22 per 4x8 sheet, it's hard to beat. I have some made 10 years ago, and they are still as new.

Last summer built my wife a garden shed and used T1-11 siding....great to work with....looks nice....but it's currently $38 per sheet locally....last time we used regular type plywood on a shooting house the squirrels chewed the heck out of it....never understood why? The glue in the plywood maybe?
 
I'll be pricing sawmill cut lumber and the T1 siding. I'll go with whatever is cheaper. We built my dads barn out of local sawmill pine lumber back in 98 and it still.looks great. We did paint it. I think its been painted 1 other time for a total.of.2 tes in its life.
 
I'll be pricing sawmill cut lumber and the T1 siding. I'll go with whatever is cheaper. We built my dads barn out of local sawmill pine lumber back in 98 and it still.looks great. We did paint it. I think its been painted 1 other time for a total.of.2 tes in its life.
Weight becomes a very real factor... at least for me!
 
Last summer built my wife a garden shed and used T1-11 siding....great to work with....looks nice....but it's currently $38 per sheet locally....last time we used regular type plywood on a shooting house the squirrels chewed the heck out of it....never understood why? The glue in the plywood maybe?
There are 2 types at my local Lowes... the one that is beige siding and is $42 a sheet, and the grey stuff I use that is $22 a sheet. Same stuff, except the beige has a 1in overlap on each side. Go with the cheaper grey!
 
I'll be pricing sawmill cut lumber and the T1 siding. I'll go with whatever is cheaper. We built my dads barn out of local sawmill pine lumber back in 98 and it still.looks great. We did paint it. I think its been painted 1 other time for a total.of.2 tes in its life.

Sawmill Poplar being elevated up off the ground will last many years...board and batten style would be nice...heavier than other options but would require less stick framing...the siding itself would add structural strength.
 
I'm lucky in that I can drive a truck right up to both of mine. I frame/side the walls on my carport and deliver to site. I actually assembled the complete blind on carport and just slid it off of the back of the truck in it's spot. Built the roof on carport and used FEL on tractor to set.
My helper was a big help setting the blind!
 

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