Short arrows

[Shed Hunter]

I finally got my bow tuned to fit my freakishly large arms. The arrows are now only 3/4 of an inch from the fieldpoint falling through the rest. The guy who set it up said it was safe to shoot but it would be likely that my arrows would not be able to flex right in the air, I think he was right. I can see the arrows curve to the left when I shoot.

Anyways would it be a fair deal to sell 10 Easton Axis Slim tech ST 400 arrows with blazer vanes and wraps for $75?

 

[Shed Hunter]

Another question.

He told me to pay him whatever I wanted. What would be a fair amount for someone changing draw length and refletching? I was thinking around $30 but if that's low I really don't want to cheat him, if it's high I don't care. I have a little while to decide because he said to wait until he finishes the arrows.

 

[Roost 1]

Shortening the arrows should not cause stated problem bow may need to be tuned. 3/4" past rest is more than enough.

 

[ImThere]

It sounds more like a arrow spine problem? I shoot the same arrow with a 70 lb draw and a 28 in arrow the 400 were marginal if i remeber i ended up with 340 i think i will double check

 

[TNDeerGuy]

It sounds more like a arrow spine problem? I shoot the same arrow with a 70 lb draw and a 28 in arrow the 400 were marginal if i remeber i ended up with 340 i think i will double check

X2! My arrows are actually just under 3/4" past the rest and 28.25" long at 70#'s and I'm a 340 spine. Have you walked back tuned and paper tuned?

 

[Buck Assassin]

I'm with the other guys... sounds like a tuning or arrow spine problem.

What poundage and draw length are you shooting?

 

[Radar]

You could lighten the point and it would stiffen the spine of the arrows .

 

[ImThere]

yep i'm shooting 340s

 

[Shed Hunter]

I found out that the arrows weren't the problem. Before I had the draw length increased the weight was at 66 pounds now it's maxed out at 70. I guess when I first started shooting I wasn't use to the difference in poundage. Now Im grouping good but I want to turn it back down to about 65. Reason being I can draw it back fine but I have a bad left shoulder. Long story short, when riding a dirt bike even if you don't wreck you will still get hurt when you hit a jump and slam into another jump.

It feels fine at 65 and even 70 for the first few shots but Id rather keep it low to keep from hurting it worse.

 

[Radar]

Lower your draw weight to a comfortable draw weight for you ! Shooting a bow accurately is best accomplished when the muscles aren't strained . There is no need or benefit to shoot a heavier draw weight than you are comfortable shooting accurately . If you can't draw straight back with ease , without sky drawing , you are drawing too much weight !

 

[Shed Hunter]

Lower your draw weight to a comfortable draw weight for you ! Shooting a bow accurately is best accomplished when the muscles aren't strained . There is no need or benefit to shoot a heavier draw weight than you are comfortable shooting accurately . If you can't draw straight back with ease , without sky drawing , you are drawing too much weight !

It's not that I have a hard time drawing it back, It just hurts my shoulder after holding it back for a long time or after several shots.

I know what your saying though, the if there is any discomfort it needs to be turned down.

 

[Radar]

Lower your draw weight to a comfortable draw weight for you ! Shooting a bow accurately is best accomplished when the muscles aren't strained . There is no need or benefit to shoot a heavier draw weight than you are comfortable shooting accurately . If you can't draw straight back with ease , without sky drawing , you are drawing too much weight !

It's not that I have a hard time drawing it back, It just hurts my shoulder after holding it back for a long time or after several shots.

I know what your saying though, the if there is any discomfort it needs to be turned down.

It will hurt even more when drawing back on a cold fall morning . Back off on the draw weight and you will be better off for your bow tune with your arrow spine and be able to shoot better .

 

[102]

Dead on RADAR! (as usual)

The test I ask my guys to perform is simple.

From the sitting position, and with the bottom limb about between your legs, point the bow toward your target and draw it STRAIGHT back to full draw WITHOUT raising the bow up more than 10 degrees.

If you CAN'T do this without strain, you are shooting too much poundage.

It may not be a problem now, but in a few years and MANY arrows, you WILL have a problem.

Besides, average bow shots are inside 20 yards, despite what ANYONE else says on TV.

So the "need for speed" is a concept promoted by an industry that WANTS and NEEDS you to buy the latest and greatest. There are MANY bows on the market today that are GREAT bows and cost comparatively VERY little. These bows, when properly set-up arrows at low poundage "very" fast.

Don't fall in to that trap. Instead, use your hard earned money for time off to shoot, buy gas, and HUNT!

102

 

[TheLBLman]

If you can't draw straight back with ease , without sky drawing, you are drawing too much weight!

Truer words never spoken, and not JUST because of how it FEELS after a few shots.

IMO, the greatest reason for going with a poundage that's VERY EASY for you to repeatedly draw WITHOUT "sky drawing" is so that you can actually draw and release accurately in some common real hunting situations, which include:

1) Being COLD!
When you get cold sitting on a stand, you lose some of your strength.

2) Having extra bulk in your clothes.
This can also increase the resistance of drawing, and it's not just an issue with bulking sleeves.
One revelation I had was in wearing coveralls. It was very cold, so I added more layers. The extra layers increased the "one piece" pull from shoulders to crotch, making it near impossible to draw while sitting.

3) Awkward positions, when you're cold, and wearing bulkier clothing than you normally wear during summer target practices.

I learned this the VERY hard way.
When I was in my early 20's, I once had an easy 10-yard shot at the buck of my dreams. Slightly quartering away, looking away from me, couldn't have been an easier or better bow-shot opportunity.

It was one of the coldest days I've ever experienced for late October in TN. I didn't have "buck fever", and was actually calm and confident with the shot, just seemed everything about this day was "perfect". But I had been sitting for a long time, and was so cold was periodically shivering.

With my bow pointed DOWN towards the buck, less than 10 yards from the base of the tree, I began drawing my bow. Just one problem: I didn't have the strength to "roll" those cams. Simply could not draw the bow, and the more I tried the harder it got. The buck stood there, giving me a perfect shooting opportunity for nearly a minute. Shooting too much poundage cost me a P&Y buck, back in the early 80's when such a buck was quite rare in TN. Had I instead been shooting a 40-lb recurve, I'd probably have that buck on my wall today.

 

[102]

Wes,
So true. I don't remember ever having had that problem as you. But ONLY because I was in camp one day as a hunter returned from his morning hunt. I sat in dis-belief as he told me a similar story that ALSO, as you, cost him the buck of his dreams.

I did not hesitate to change my hunting set-up as soon as I could after hearing his story. This guy was a highly respected and very accomplished tournament shooter AND bow hunter. When he spoke, it was smart to listen.

BTW, he changed his bow poundage as well.

 

[Radar]

Wes , I had a similar experience about 30 years ago when I was hunting the late bow season in Michigan . It was 10 degrees and I was shooting one of the high poundage macho bows of those days .
When I was drawing back on a buck during that frigid morning , I actually pulled my shoulder out of socket . It hurt so bad that I couldn't even lift my arm to comb my hair for weeks and had to keep it in a sling . I keep it strong now by lifting weights , but I have Bursitis in my shoulder . I learned my lesson early in my bowhunting career , but I'm still suffuering from that injury .
I just hope that some of the younger guys don't have to learn the hard way like we did , and miss a shot opportunity or get injured by shooting to much weight .
I will say that most bows are more efficient when they are maxed out , but that difference will not be noticed if the shooter cannot shoot as accurately at the higher draw weight .
There are some younger 3D shooters that can shoot great groups at longer ranges during the summer heat , but taking one shot a big buck with heavy clothes on , when the adrenalne is pumping , without a warmup is much harder than shooting at foam targets .

 

[TheLBLman]

I just hope that some of the younger guys don't have to learn the hard way like we did, and miss a shot opportunity or get injured by shooting to much weight.

Progressively heavier bows was the marketing rage back in the early 80's.

Seems like every year PSE was coming out with their latest "Mach" something. Forget just which bow I was using in my first cold-weather archery humbling, but think it may have been the very first PSE "Mach". It was a "rough" shooting bow by today's standards, and had (I think) about a 30% let-off.

I was also trying to "keep up" with my body-builder friend who was shooting an 80-lb PSE Mach bow. I was shooting 73 or 74 lbs at the time, and that was all I could handle shooting targets. Think our bows also had over-draws, so we could shoot yet faster, then had to go to PSE's little low-profile "Brute" heads to get stability. Seemed to perpetually spend more time tuning the complicated set-ups than enjoying them.

Seems there was quite a marketing ploy to sell newer and heavier bows then. Ironically, I believe Fred Bear killed most of his deer with a 45-lb bow? I killed my first archery deer with a 40-lb recurve, and wished that was what was in my hand that cold morning. Effective deer-hunting archery is more about accuracy, consistently, and less about arrow speed or bow poundage.

I guess today's archery marketing hype is more about broadheads, or maybe crossbows.

 

[Radar]

I just hope that some of the younger guys don't have to learn the hard way like we did, and miss a shot opportunity or get injured by shooting to much weight.

Progressively heavier bows was the marketing rage back in the early 80's.

Seems like every year PSE was coming out with their latest "Mach" something. Forget just which bow I was using in my first cold-weather archery humbling, but think it may have been the very first PSE "Mach". It was a "rough" shooting bow by today's standards, and had (I think) about a 30% let-off.

I was also trying to "keep up" with my body-builder friend who was shooting an 80-lb PSE Mach bow. I was shooting 73 or 74 lbs at the time, and that was all I could handle shooting targets. Think our bows also had over-draws, so we could shoot yet faster, then had to go to PSE's little low-profile "Brute" heads to get stability. Seemed to perpetually spend more time tuning the complicated set-ups than enjoying them.

Seems there was quite a marketing ploy to sell newer and heavier bows then. Ironically, I believe Fred Bear killed most of his deer with a 45-lb bow? I killed my first archery deer with a 40-lb recurve, and wished that was what was in my hand that cold morning. Effective deer-hunting archery is more about accuracy, consistently, and less about arrow speed or bow poundage.

I guess today's archery marketing hype is more about broadheads, or maybe crossbows.

Wes , I was shooting a PSE (macho) bow as well . I think it maxed out at 80 lbs . Way too much draw weight , even though I was working out 4 days a week with heavy weights .
I'm glad my current rigs are much smoother draw cycles at less draw weight than the macho bows of those days , yet they shoot more accurate and are faster than the older , less efficient bows .

 

[fourwheeler431]

I remember having a mach flight 4R drawing 76lbs and having the longest overdraw made at the time. I believe hoyt made it and I was shooting the shortest arrows that was allowed,it was an absolute beast to shoot! But it was smoking fast at the time.

 

[pjridge]

I'm guessing you have a long draw, maybe 30+. If so, even at 60# I would recommend 340's. If you decide to draw 67#+ I would look in to maybe a 300 spine. Arrow Spine can also be affected by the bow your shooting. I shoot 58# and use a 400 FMJ arrow out of my PSE Vendetta DC. If I shot a extremely high performance bow like a PSE Omen at the same poundage I would choose at least a 340 spine. If you have a good pro shop they should help you with this.