Appalachian American
Well-Known Member
So here it is. When I rangefind, am I getting a compensated horizontal distance or the actual straight line distance? Or does it really matter?
Thanks,
BnDHntn
Thanks,
BnDHntn
-
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Straight line or Horizontal diatance??
- Thread starter Appalachian American
- Start date
You are getting straight line readings. Example: If your stand is 30ft off the ground thats roughly 10yards high, but a deer is standing directly under your stand at about 2yards from the tree when you range the deer its going to be at 10yards which is incorrect your ten yard pin would shoot over the deers back. Thats where a the math comes into play figuring out how to compensate for your shot. One of the better investments that i have made was buying the Nikon Archers rangefinder it takes the guess work out.
You guys correct me if i'm wrong but this is my understanding.
You guys correct me if i'm wrong but this is my understanding.
TNDeerGuy
Well-Known Member
The standard range finder uses straight line readings; however, alot of the range finders today have angle compensators incorporated into them and they use various names for this technology�"ARC", "TBR", etc... Regardless of the name, they are all using the Pythagorean theorem in their software to measure the distance of the angle. Because the Earth's gravity is constant, when you "sight in " your pins on the ground your getting the full effect of Earth's gravity on your arrow, but when you shoot up or down you the affects of the Earth's gravity, in relation to the measured drop of the arrow, is lessened. For the most part the cost of this additional technology is not worth the price you pay�a standard rangefinder will work fine in most cases. Twenty yards high, and a target twenty yards out will result in a impact difference of about 1/2 of an inch�not enough to worrry about. Only under extreme angles such as 20 yards high and a target five yards out will your point of impact be dramatically different from your aimpoint. You will need in that case to aim below the deer in order to hit it�but that is a horrible angle for archery no matter how you cut it; plus you more than likely will have already had or will get a much better shot angle if they were that close to begin with. To summarize, it is not worth the money for the additional technology unless the majority of your shots will be very extreme downward or upward angles�the margin of variation in your point-of-impact is negligible due to occurances in real life hunting situations.
Hoss
Well-Known Member
Bend at the waist when you shoot, don't drop your arm. measure distances at ground level and at the same height as you are. You will learn how to compensate with practice.
The main thing is to do this while practicing. Not while you are hunting. You will probably realize it is not that big a difference one way or the other.
The main thing is to do this while practicing. Not while you are hunting. You will probably realize it is not that big a difference one way or the other.
And, if you mouth bleat to stop your walking deer like all the "pros" do on TV, you very often will have an alert deer that will drop 15" of so at your shot. The speed of sound is faster than your arrow getting to the deer.
For most archers, misses or mis-hits tend to be high rather than low. Hoss's advice of learning to bend at the waist rather than dropping your bow arm to put the sight on the deer is spot on and will save you a bunch of deer.
For most archers, misses or mis-hits tend to be high rather than low. Hoss's advice of learning to bend at the waist rather than dropping your bow arm to put the sight on the deer is spot on and will save you a bunch of deer.
Buck Assassin
Well-Known Member
Ditto what Hoss said but I disagree with scn about the bleat. I bleat at every deer I shoot at unless the deer already looks spooked.
First off...GREAT QUESTION!
To elaborate on what Hoss said, sight your bow in while standing on the ground at KNOWN distances and using EXACTLY the same equipment as you will use while hunting. (if your broadheads fly EXACTLY like your field points, use the field points. If not, use realy broadheads.
If noone is there to help, set multiple targets around the tree at varying distances inside 25 yards (or to whatever your top pin is set). Or have a person around to pull arrows and move targets. This is not an exercise that you need to repeat all that often before hunting season so you can call in a favor. But it is VERY important to do this ANY time you change ANY part of your bow, arrow, or broadhead combination.
With multiple target options in place, climb a tree to the height of your average hunt. For me, this often exceeds 20 feet high. If you are hunting hilly terrain but practicing on flat ground, your actual shot simulation angle may be quite closer.
Then. draw back your arrow, pick a spot, and see where you hit on practice shots.
For me, I set my bow to shoot 2 inches low at 25 yards. THis is dead on at 12-20 yards in a stand.
And I agree with SCN, but it depends on where I am hunting. For some weird reason I have yet to figure, deer don't drop much at the sound of the arrow up North. But here in the South, I have video of them being below the arrow after release. COMPLETELY out of the path of the arrow.
By FAR, AEDC is the worst. I usually aim at or below the bottom 2 inches of those tag bandits.
And for some reason, really BIG, MATURE bucks don't drop much either.
Anyway, it is FAR better to find out now, than miss an opportunity later.
102
To elaborate on what Hoss said, sight your bow in while standing on the ground at KNOWN distances and using EXACTLY the same equipment as you will use while hunting. (if your broadheads fly EXACTLY like your field points, use the field points. If not, use realy broadheads.
If noone is there to help, set multiple targets around the tree at varying distances inside 25 yards (or to whatever your top pin is set). Or have a person around to pull arrows and move targets. This is not an exercise that you need to repeat all that often before hunting season so you can call in a favor. But it is VERY important to do this ANY time you change ANY part of your bow, arrow, or broadhead combination.
With multiple target options in place, climb a tree to the height of your average hunt. For me, this often exceeds 20 feet high. If you are hunting hilly terrain but practicing on flat ground, your actual shot simulation angle may be quite closer.
Then. draw back your arrow, pick a spot, and see where you hit on practice shots.
For me, I set my bow to shoot 2 inches low at 25 yards. THis is dead on at 12-20 yards in a stand.
And I agree with SCN, but it depends on where I am hunting. For some weird reason I have yet to figure, deer don't drop much at the sound of the arrow up North. But here in the South, I have video of them being below the arrow after release. COMPLETELY out of the path of the arrow.
By FAR, AEDC is the worst. I usually aim at or below the bottom 2 inches of those tag bandits.
And for some reason, really BIG, MATURE bucks don't drop much either.
Anyway, it is FAR better to find out now, than miss an opportunity later.
102
GOODWIN
Well-Known Member
scn said:
Pretty much every "alert" deer and even some that were not have ducked at my shot no matter how quiet my bow. Like 102 I've started aiming for a real low heart shot and more often than not they duck down into it.
