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Tuning a bow

Vermin93

Vermin93

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I'm a new bowhunter and I keep hearing and reading about tuning a bow. My pro shop put my bow together and got it shooting straight, so I guess it's tuned. What does it really mean to "tune" a bow? What is involved in the process and is it something that you can on your own if you have the right equipment in your shop? Is sighting in a bow part of tuning it, or are they completely separate things?
 
You can do everything on your own if you have the right stuff. This is what I do. It may or may not be the same as someone else. However, it works for me and that's all I care about. The first thing I do is try and get the bow in spec (ata, brace height, poundage, idler lean, and cam timing) by twisting/untwisting the string/cable. Whether I have changed the string or cable or just starting setting one up. Then I install the rest and set it up where when the arrow is on it and sitting level, it runs through the arrow rest screw hole. Then I will tie on a loop and install the sights. Then I will attach the drop away cord (if using a dropaway) and put the peep in and get it where I want it, then tie it in. I will shoot the bow several times to allow for any stretching. Then I will check the specs again and adjust them if they need it and will also set my peep where it will rotate right, by twisting the string. Then I will shoot some more. Then I will broadhead tune and get my broadheads flying like my field points. At that point if everything is still in spec, I'm done unless something happens.
 
Tuning and setting up a bow is something you can do easily at home, as long as you have the right equipment such as a bow press and tools. Every bow has a "sweet spot", and no two bows will have the same spot�how the shooter shoots will also affect this sweet spot. For an example, I can setup two Mathews Z7's the exact same way and have someone shoot both and the results probably will not be the same as far as how the arrow comes off the bow�I can also setup one bow and have two different results from two different shooters. Tuning a bow, is not just tuning a bow�it is tuning a bow to how a shooter shoots that bow, and it will be different for every shooter.

To begin with, the first step is to make sure that both cams are tuning over at the same time and in the proper place, while maintaining proper angles of the cams in relation to the string. You will have to have a press for this step and it is achieved by either adding or removing twists to the cable/string so that the length is either made longer or shorter and that changes how the cams rotate, to adjust cam lean you change twists in the yoke. Another part of the tuning process is to make sure that the arrow comes off the bow "square". When I say square I mean that the arrow comes off of the bow (nock point and rest position) centered in the middle of its axis points�up/down between cams and riser and left/right between cams and riser.

After getting everything (nock and rest) set to the base specs, fine adjustments will need to be made to the nock point and the position of the rest as the bow is shot through paper to eliminate any tears. Shooting through paper tell you the arrow position after coming out of the bow. After a bullet hole is achieved you then walk-back tune and make further adjustments if needed.

Of course, all of this was generically explained, but yes it is something you can do at home with the right tools. Myself, and several others on here have bought all of our own equipment (press, saws, jigs, etc....) so we don't have to depend on others to do jobs that often are not done correct, or they are done half-way.
 
TNDeerGuy said:
Myself, and several others on here have bought all of our own equipment (press, saws, jigs, etc....) so we don't have to depend on others to do jobs that often are not done correct, or they are done half-way.
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That's why I started doing my own work. After I started, I found I really enjoy it. It is a great not having to rely on someone else to do your work. Especially, the ones that don't know what they are doing.
 
Thanks for the explanations. I'm a DIY kind of person, so I can see myself eventually acquiring the necessary tools to work on my own bow. This year I'm just going to focus on practicing and hopefully bagging a deer. Next year I might start setting up a bow workshop in the garage.
 
buzz mcmanus said:
Google "eastons arrow tuning guide". Print pages 3-14, read, then head into the backyard and tune your bow. Shouldn't take more than an hour.
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Easton's tuning good is a great one, but it will be for nothing if the cams are out of time, or cam lean is present.
 
switchbacker said:
how exactly would you know if your cams are out of time or leaning?
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To check for cam lean, you draw the bow back and have someone else either visually look at the position of the string as it comes off of the wheel to make sure it is not coming off of the side of the wheel, or have them lay a straight-edge (an arrow works fine for this) on the side of the wheel and it should run parallel to the string. To check for timing, certain bows will have marks on the cams or windows, such as the newer Mathews for instance where the string has to 100% bisect the middle of the window for the cam to be in time. Other manufacturers may have draw stops where the draw stops "hit" the string at the exact same time. Regardless, every bow has a way to check the timing�some are just alot easier to check than others.

One thing I have learned though is, on the harder to check bows to put marks on both wheels in relation to the limbs after it is "in time" so you have a quick visual reference to check in the future.
 
Somebody used to post up a link to a web site where someone explained all this i just cant remember who it was
 
Archery talk has some great info in the general forum under "nuts and bolts of archery".

Great place for someone to learn from or gain more experience. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on that site.
 

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