Tuning advice

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BHC

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For some of you experienced guys, what are the steps you take when getting a new bow in getting it properly tuned. I got a new bow last fall and eye balled everything in getting it set up. As a result I never could get good groups at any distance, and broadheads didn't group well at all.. I almost lost my best buck to date because I made a marginal shot..
So I wanna start from scratch, get as much out of my bow as possibly. I'm sure there are some other more novice archers that could benefit as well...
 
The very first thing I do is set the bow up to manufacturers specs and make the proper arrow selection based on those specs. I am one of those that use paper because it gives me input on what the arrow is doing out of the bow and how I need to approach the needed fix. I then make small adjustments to the either the nock position, rest position or the bow, via yoke tuning/cable twisting/untwisting, until I get an acceptable tear. I then walk-back tune and then close to deer season broadhead tune�if I have to make any adjustment here it is often very, very small. Every bow will have to have adjustments to it that make it tailor-made to its shooter�finding that sweet-spot takes patience and a little time.
 
TNDeerGuy said:
The very first thing I do is set the bow up to manufacturers specs and make the proper arrow selection based on those specs. I am one of those that use paper because it gives me input on what the arrow is doing out of the bow and how I need to approach the needed fix. I then make small adjustments to the either the nock position, rest position or the bow, via yoke tuning/cable twisting/untwisting, until I get an acceptable tear. I then walk-back tune and then close to deer season broadhead tune�if I have to make any adjustment here it is often very, very small. Every bow will have to have adjustments to it that make it tailor-made to its shooter�finding that sweet-spot takes patience and a little time.
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^^^^this^^^^
 
Correction 28.5" draw, 27 1/8" arrow, 8.9 gr/in. So roughly 245 gr arrow with insert. Last yr I shot 125 gr muzzy. Thinking of going down to 100 gr, and switching to an expandable. It appears the string is coming off the idler wheel left of center..
 
340 spine, 348 gr arrow. I chrono'd it today at 316 fps. Puts me at 76ft-lbs of KE.
I paper tuned it and am gettin bullet holes. I'm gunna walk back tune later today.
I think closer to season I may get some heavier arrows, somethin nearer to 400 gr... That'd boost KE and momentum, and only bring me down to about 295-300fps... How much flatness in arrow flight will that cause me to lose?
 
BHC said:
340 spine, 348 gr arrow. I chrono'd it today at 316 fps. Puts me at 76ft-lbs of KE.
I paper tuned it and am gettin bullet holes. I'm gunna walk back tune later today.
I think closer to season I may get some heavier arrows, somethin nearer to 400 gr... That'd boost KE and momentum, and only bring me down to about 295-300fps... How much flatness in arrow flight will that cause me to lose?
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it probably won't change it as much as you think , because of what TNdeerguy said . A lighter arrow loses momentum faster therefore loses speed faster .. Also with a 348 grain arrow set up you are too light , if your shooting 70 lbs. unless its a high country .The industry acceptable minimum is 5 grains per pound of draw length . I know your only under it by 2 grains but if your bow blows up the manufacturer will not cover it .

And like TNdeerguy said , your losing momentum faster and have less KE . Sure it shoots faster through a chrono at 1 yd. but it loses alot down range . And of your goal is to have the quietest and most efficient set up possible , you don't have it . Like others have posted you would be amazed at how much quiter your shot will be if you can get some heavier arrows . The reason is , when you release an arrow all the explosive force in the bow has to be directed somewhere . If your arrow is too light to accept all the energy it has to go somewhere , so what happens is the excess energy is transferred to your limbs and riser . Causing possible damage most importantly , as well as excess vibration felt after the shot and a much louder shot .

If I were you I would atleast put the 125 grain heads on it to keep shooting a bunch .
 
Yea I definately do not want my limbs to split or anything..I was plannin to get some arrows this morning, but the guy helpin me said all in all glue, and vanes probly got me to 350, and as straight as it was shooting he would change it... Do u have to special order the heavier arrows? I'm shooting gold tip pro hunters, and all I've seen is 8.9gr/in.
 
I don't think your limbs will split , but over time they could . You probably will have to order arrows if the place your going to doesnt have anything heavier . If you don't mind me asking what shop are you going to ?

You said you were shooting 125 gr. heads before , you could just got back with them at the very least . And don't make a decision based on what we are all saying , it's your choice . But if it were me I would shoot a 400-425 grain total arrow and head weight . You will notice a difference in the quietness of the bow I bet . You could also try and order arrows online from Lancaster or somewhere and have your shop cut them etc .. But before you have them cut , send me or Tndeerguy a message and we can run it through the computer and see what length will work for optimal spine etc ...
 
I go to Lawson's in Loretto. Am moving to jackson next week, if u got any referrels... I appreciate all the comments, but based on what has been said here and from what else I've read online, I probly should bump up the weight of my arrows.. I really do not understand why if my bow ibo's 340, why I'm shooting 315 with a 348 gr arrow.... Yes I've got a peep and a d- loop on, but do they not have a d loop when the ibo test them? That shouldn't account for a loss of 25fps..? If I do jump up my arrow weight,what spine strength should I go with? I read where some ppl say you can't really go to stiff with my type set up.,? I think my string may be coming off the idler wheel slightly left (towards me) of center, is that of concern?
 
BHC said:
I go to Lawson's in Loretto. Am moving to jackson next week, if u got any referrels... I appreciate all the comments, but based on what has been said here and from what else I've read online, I probly should bump up the weight of my arrows.. I really do not understand why if my bow ibo's 340, why I'm shooting 315 with a 348 gr arrow.... Yes I've got a peep and a d- loop on, but do they not have a d loop when the ibo test them? That shouldn't account for a loss of 25fps..? If I do jump up my arrow weight,what spine strength should I go with? I read where some ppl say you can't really go to stiff with my type set up.,? I think my string may be coming off the idler wheel slightly left (towards me) of center, is that of concern?
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The IBO is texted at 30" draw ;) and with pretty much nothing on the string . They put a nocking point on and that's it . Your not far off your estimated IBO at 29" . Just a little slower . Which could be attributed to tune , string weight , or actual draw weight being a little bit off .

The IBO speed is not what the bow will shoot with your set up . The IBO speed is what the bow should shoot with nothing on the string , 70 lb pull , 30" draw length , and a bare minimum arrow weight . So changing the draw length to 29" and adding 15-25 grains on the string (depending on what type of nocking point and if your using a heavier peep ) would bring you down to around 320 .
 

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