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OldFart

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I may be showing my ignorance but I'd rather do that than to remain ignorant.
I'm trying to tune my 2004 Hoyt Pro Tec with XT3000 limbs.
I've tuned it before with no problems.
My method/s. First I try to get very close to center shot. Then I am completely anal about bare shaft tuning
my arrows where I can consistently get a bare shaft to shoot in a 3 in. group @ 20 yds. I try to start with an arrow that fits the charts. Then I cut the shaft to length, change points, etc.
Then I paper tune at about 10 ft, later moving to 30 ft.
Then I do walk back tuning, 10, 20 and 30 yds. Usually if the afore-mentioned things are correct, this is OK, but I check anyway.
I recently had a custom string and cables installed.
The bow was set up by a pro shop. Bare shaft tuning, paper tuning and walk back to 30 yds were right on. Broadheads shot to the same point as field points out to 30 yds. I will not mention the manufacturer of the strings, prob not the cause anyway as they worked so well after installation.
Now I get about a one-half in. left tear
with no problem up and down @ 10 ft. This clears up to an almost perfect bullet hole at 30 ft. But my bare shafts shot 7 in to right of the center of my fletched shafts @ 20 yds. I haven't tried walk back tuning yet.
My Pro Tec is set @ 50 lbs at 28 in. My arrows are
ST Axis 500s cut to 25 and one-half inches with 100 grain tips. I realize these are short but they checked beautiful before with all the testing mentioned above and also were used to shoot 2 antelope and a deer. The whole time I have been shooting a Ripcord drop away rest.
Approximately 3 months of time passed between testing. Also, I have some 400 ST Axis arrows (cut much longer and with 125g tips) that also checked good thru all the above mentioned testing but now also show
the same problem as the 500 shafts.
Am I doing this tuning in the correct order? For instance if my center shot is slightly off would it affect my bare shaft testing?
BTW, the pro shop has checked the bow and it appears to still be set up correctly.
Thanks Ray
 
More info:
The cables line up with the holes per the Hoyt booklet I rx'd with my bow. I have the cam and a half cams.
Trying walk back tuning first seems reasonable. Right now I don't even have a 40 yd pin but I could fix that. I have to drive 15 miles to get to shoot over 30 yds.
I have tried reducing weight by up to 4 lbs and it made very little difference.
Thanks Ray
 
If the tuning has changed over the last 3 months, then i would suspect something else has changed. First place I would check is to see if the string has stretched. I know you said the timing holes line up per the manual but the string might have moved on you. If that isn't the case then it has to be you. Are you shooting wearing the same clothing as when you first tuned the bow? Are you gripping the bow the same? Could be you have a bow hand torque problem. Let some one else shoot the bow and see what kind of tears you get then. These couple of things are really all that could be causing the erratic tuning unless you dropped it out of a treestand?
 
Thanks to all for the replies. I really appreciate them.
The bow has not been damaged. I'll never rule out that it could be me. I'm not aware of any form or gripping changes but it's still possible. The tiller measures good. (same for both limbs)
When it warms up a bit, I'll try walk back tuning. It was minus 19 here last night. Only in single digits, low single digits for a high today, not certain exactly, maybe high not far from zero.
What symptoms would I have if the string and/or cables stretched?? Thanks Ray
 
It is possible that the string to stretch and not the cables. If the cables have stretched than your timing holes would not be in the correct position. With the string stretching your draw length would get longer. This would make it harder to be in the same position in the valley. But the left/right holes and not up and down makes me think that your bow hand isn't in the grip the same. With it being 19 below it is going to be tough to find the same spot regardless of who the shooter is. If you could get in a garage or a warehouse anywhere there is a bit of heat and just start shooting.
 
When a string stretches , the ATA will be longer , and the brace height will be shorter. The exact measurements can be obtained through the manufacturer .
I use paper tuning for initial setup ,and walkback and broadhead group tuning for fine tuning . I never use bare shaft tuning for setup . I use 4" feathers through a WB rest . If walkback and broadhead tuning are good well downrange , I'm set . Remember point weight will effect the arrow spine . A 125 gr. point will weaken the spine more than a lighter point . I use 100 gr. points on light arrows .
Paper tuning should be done at 10 ft. , because you want to capture a reading before the arrow stabilizes downrange . You can get false readings downrange .
Another thing to consider is string contact on heavy jackets when tuning in cold weather . ;)

Here is a good tuning guide :
http://www.goldtip.com/downloads/arrowa ... tuning.pdf

Walk back tuning :
http://forums.mathewsinc.com/viewtopic.php?t=44159
 
I ship m bow to Pro Bow tune.com
They do a better job than I am capable of doing myself.
Good people to work with.
 
Thanks to everybody for replies. I have been shooting at an indoor range but 20 yds is max. All my testing has been done at this indoor range except walk back testing approx 3 months ago with field points and broadheads. Maybe I should have the string length measurements checked but I don't have a bow press, could get the pro shop to check it. Believe I still have the measurements. Thanks Ray
 
You don't need to check the string length to monitor string stretch . Checking the ATA and brace height to the manufacturer's specs. will determine if there is string stretch , how ever you will need a bow press to make adjustments if necessary .
 
Radar is right about just checking the A-to-A and brace height. When checking the brace height you should contact the bow manufacturer and find out exactly they measure their brace height from. Some use different points on their bow to get it. Best place to measure from is the deepest spot of the grip to the middle of the string. This spot eliminates the factor of different size serving. You will need a bow press, unless your bow is one that doesn't need a press to twist the string to get it back to factory specs.
 

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