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What powder for 30-06

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Nsghunter

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I am going to cabelas next week and I think I will use the opportunity to buy some reloading supplies.
I have cases and a few bullets but no powder. What are some recommendations or should I just use my reloading manual?
 
What Bullet weight? If 150 grain, IMR4350. If not 150, go buy some-preferably a box of 150 Ballistic tips and then a box of 150 grain partitions. Load the Ballistics and develop a charge and length for you that delivers accuracy and then switch over to the Partitions.

This load is over book max. DO NOT start here. Temp this day was 101.
Dadstargets076.jpg
 
I'm really liking rl17 right now for 165s and 180s, but 30-06s are not picky:
Any of the 4350s, 4895s, 4831s,or 4064s (including Varget).
Rl22,23,19,15
Ramshot Hunter
And the list goes on and on
 
I measure the outside edge of the two farthest apart bullet holes. Then, I subtract the bullet diameter (.308 in this instance) and then that gives me the
C enter
T o
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distance. It is your group size and in this instance the Browning was shooting under 3/4 MOA minute of angle.

The Browning has been shooting the same 150 Partition load up until right before I got cut on. I switched over to AccuBonds but I still have about 100+ partitions loaded up.
 
Here's the 22-250 same day at the range. I was by myself because the kids were in school. The heat was tough.

Dadstargets075.jpg
 
This 243 load is deadly. This was last range trip for this gun before the trigger came apart. UI have everything repaired but no trip to range. Plus it has a better scope now.

Dadstargets078.jpg
 
DaveB":cmq0hu6p said:
What Bullet weight? If 150 grain, IMR4350. If not 150, go buy some-preferably a box of 150 Ballistic tips and then a box of 150 grain partitions. Load the Ballistics and develop a charge and length for you that delivers accuracy and then switch over to the Partitions.

This load is over book max. DO NOT start here. Temp this day was 101.
Dadstargets076.jpg
Click to expand...

I believe I have 150 but considered using 180. The reason is I had read that the 180 increases the amount of energy transferred at greater distances and therefore increased the ethical range of my shots. I also wanted to hunt black bear and didn't want to use 2 different load s, since it will be a combo hunt.

any thoughts Dave?
 
All the above are good choices. I myselt like the 165 gr Accubond and BT's with IMR 4350. Varget and BLC2 work very good also.
 
I do not load the 180 grain bullets in my 30/06, only my 300 WinMag so I have no experience to help you. I am not near a reloading manual but IMR4350 is probably not the powder of choice for the 180 grain bullets.
 
DaveB":gi18kmda said:
I measure the outside edge of the two farthest apart bullet holes. Then, I subtract the bullet diameter (.308 in this instance) and then that gives me the
C enter
T o
C enter

distance. It is your group size and in this instance the Browning was shooting under 3/4 MOA minute of angle.

The Browning has been shooting the same 150 Partition load up until right before I got cut on. I switched over to AccuBonds but I still have about 100+ partitions loaded up.
Click to expand...

Cool! Thank you
 
Yep, I reload the nickel-plated cases when I have to. They do not last as long as brass ones (neck cracks generally) but I have never had the flake problem. And the primer pocket can be tight. I never chamber a round that has to wiped clean because I dropped it-brass or nickel. Since early 2012 I have had to purchase nickel plated quite a few times because regular brass was simply not available.

caliber 223, 243, 280, 30-06, 300 WSM, and 300 WinMag.
brass 4000, 400 500 600 50 75
Nickel 500 100 100 100 200 200
 
Chamfering the nickel plated cases can be problematic as this tends to cause the nickel plating to crack and begin to flake. Once I observe a case that has this problem I toss it.

To reduce/eliminate this problem and at the same time do something to reduce the case prep boredom:

I use a variable speed B&D drill with the Lyman chamfering tool chucked up. Yeah, this is hard on the threads. I lock the drill into a slow speed and I use clamps to hold the drill down so my hands are free. I spray the tool with lubricant and start chamfering the inside of the case mouth. Finish one in the bucket next one chamfer in the bucket, I get a good rythmn going and generally don't stop until all brass is done. Then I swap out the Inside chamfer fo the external chamfer and repeat.

The faster speed and sharp cutting tools seems to stop the cracking and flaking.

Also, you can tell how good a job you have done when you begin seating bullets. Crooked or poorly done chamfering tends to require an increase in effort to seat a bullet. Or, you get those nasty little rings of copper shaved off your bullet and then you wonder why you get flyers.
 
DaveB, are you using a long drop tube to get that much powder in a .30-06 case? I shoot IMR 4350 in a .30-06 and have trouble getting more than about 57.5 gr. in it before it spills out. I've been meaning to get or make a long drop tube for my RCBS Uniflow.
 

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