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Distance from camera to area to photograph

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peytoncreekhunter

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Jul 12, 2004
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Hermitage
How far do ya'll place your camera from the area you want to photograph or video. Do you place it at the full distance that is advertised on the box or place it closer?

I know area, foliage etc may play a part in it but what is your average distance?
 
I have south facing camera and it by far takes more pictures than any other cam I have.


Depends on the situation. If a cam is on salt lick it's pretty close. If it's on field crossing I try to be close but no guarantee.
 
Depends on the setup. For treeline/scrape setups it is rare that my cameras are more than 15 feet from where I hope to get pics of deer. For trails i set them up a little differently and usually angle them looking down the trail and they may be set back or on a tree right on the trail. Rare i setup on food plots, but in those cases in try to setup for wider coverage.
 
Popcorn said:
Unless it's looking into a slope I get too many sun glare pics at critical times plus that exposure can cause condensation on the lense and it's 10:am before you can see the topic
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I do have several sun glare pictures, but it's also on my main crossing. If I set it facing north the deer are too far to trigger it. Just this morning….
4FE0AE1F-4C5D-473B-B526-76490D64EFEE.png
 
Basically, what everyone else said. Scrape, if possible, about 15 feet. A road, trail, or general concentration point, more like 20-25 feet. For food plots, I use t-posts I pound into the ground right on the edge of the plot. And for all cameras, face the camera north if possible. I use the special t-post camera mounts for my food plot cams. A bit expensive, but well worth it considering how well they hold the camera so it doesn't move or wobble in the wind. For all the other cams, either just the strap the camera came with, or most often the tree-screw camera mounts. Love those things. All though they need to be oiled every so often to keep them from rusting/seizing up.
 
As far away as possible while still having good function. I don't want to ever enter or apply scent in the area I'm monitoring. Accessing the camera without ever stepping near the spot it's looking at is the most important thing for me.

I also hang my cams fairly high and angle them down, so I really have sun glare issues. I look for trees or branches that are at minim as wide as the cam, set as far off the area of surveillance as possible, and access from behind so I can keep my noticeable presence at a minimum. I'm not looking for pictures I can frame to hang on my living room wall. All I need is close and clear enough to identify individual bucks.
 
average 15 to 20 feet. Food plots I put where sun is never an issue so facing north. Scrapes 15 to 20 feet. Same as everyone else above. Cell cameras in those places that are tight or hard to get to fixed the intrusion or scent worries i used to have. The rest we can change on a tractor ranger or as we hunt them coming in and out. Height wise depends a little on terrain but belly button is about perfect for us.

I have been wondering about the t post mounts I will have to order some they looked really good. I have had cameras slide and get turned on t post more than I like to admit.
 
deerhunter10 said:
I have been wondering about the t post mounts I will have to order some they looked really good. I have had cameras slide and get turned on t post more than I like to admit.
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There are several designs/manufacturers, but this is the one I personally like because it is so infinitely adjustable:

www.trailcampro.com

Slate River T Post Mount

Check out this compact Slate River T-Post trail and game camera mount from Trailcampro! This mount can rotate and tilt, making it perfect for quick positioning.
www.trailcampro.com www.trailcampro.com

Over time, I've picked up enough of these tree mounts that I rarely use just the camera's strap anymore:

www.trailcampro.com

Slate River Stealth Game Camera Mount

The Slate River Stealth EZ-Aim game camera mount is simple and easy to use. Mount your camera in seconds to a tree & take the perfect angled wildlife shot.
www.trailcampro.com www.trailcampro.com
 
BSK said:
There are several designs/manufacturers, but this is the one I personally like because it is so infinitely adjustable:

www.trailcampro.com

Slate River T Post Mount

Check out this compact Slate River T-Post trail and game camera mount from Trailcampro! This mount can rotate and tilt, making it perfect for quick positioning.
www.trailcampro.com www.trailcampro.com

Over time, I've picked up enough of these tree mounts that I rarely use just the camera's strap anymore:

www.trailcampro.com

Slate River Stealth Game Camera Mount

The Slate River Stealth EZ-Aim game camera mount is simple and easy to use. Mount your camera in seconds to a tree & take the perfect angled wildlife shot.
www.trailcampro.com www.trailcampro.com
Click to expand...
Here is the one I have liked:

HME Products Economy Trail Camera Holder , Olive, 6.50x5.24x1.38


Amazon tree trail cam mount
 
Speedwell-Hunter said:
Whats the "always facing north" mantra about? thank you
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We are in the northern hemisphere which alway puts the sun angled from the south. Glare from the sun at prime movement times will ruin a lot of pics and make many of no value.
Facing northerly will use that same scenario to take advantage of that lighting for better pics and better quality and detail.
 
Speedwell-Hunter said:
Whats the "always facing north" mantra about? thank you
Click to expand...
As well as the previous comments about sun glare, because even at noon the sun is angling in from the south in late fall, it prevents sunlight from triggering the camera. This can be a real problem in dappled sunlight (back in the woods) where direct sunlight is hitting and then not hitting the camera as it comes through the trees. Especially true on light wind days where the branches and leaves are swaying back and forth. You can end up with hundreds of pictures/videos of nothing except the sun intermittently hitting the camera.
 
BSK said:
As well as the previous comments about sun glare, because even at noon the sun is angling in from the south in late fall, it prevents sunlight from triggering the camera. This can be a real problem in dappled sunlight (back in the woods) where direct sunlight is hitting and then not hitting the camera as it comes through the trees. Especially true on light wind days where the branches and leaves are swaying back and forth. You can end up with hundreds of pictures/videos of nothing except the sun intermittently hitting the camera.
Click to expand...
LOL, i have a spypoint that does this, none of my other cams do it. I was wondering what the hell was setting it off! has tons of SHADOWS!
 

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