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Muzzleloader Federal B.O.R. Loc REVIEW.

What is so wrong with sabots. Or even pistol bullets. The xtp at the speeds you posted are an absolute killer.
I have not witnessed that to be true. I've seen (on the clubs I work for) a TON of deer lost to saboted pistol bullets. Now maybe it's the lack of shooting skill of the hunters. Very possible. But I/we have never lost a deer to a 50-caliber chunk of lead.
 
I have not witnessed that to be true. I've seen (on the clubs I work for) a TON of deer lost to saboted pistol bullets. Now maybe it's the lack of shooting skill of the hunters. Very possible. But I/we have never lost a deer to a 50-caliber chunk of lead.
The sabot isn't the problem, and neither are the pistol bullets.

But give a Parker BE a try with a sabot.
 
I have found the federal bor loc 270gr to be accurate. Only problem of accuracy I have found has been when the bullet wasn't fully seated in the bore. Other than that they have been accurate on paper. I just can't shot a deer with it yet. This year hopefully I will test it.
 
Sabots of any type are a no-go for me or any of the other hunters in my group.
I'm with you, but the post on 325 gr FTX has me intrigued. But if I can help it I'll never shoot a sabot.
I'm also not a fan of the new long range bullets although never shot them, I'm just not a fan.
Especially with a 2 week season.
 
I'm with you, but the post on 325 gr FTX has me intrigued. But if I can help it I'll never shoot a sabot.
I'm also not a fan of the new long range bullets although never shot them, I'm just not a fan.
Especially with a 2 week season.
Been using the 325 FTX and orange MMPs for years. More cost effective than blister packs of ML branded stuff, and super effective on game.

Another thing to consider if you want to go full bore is getting a Lee mould and casting your own. Not hard to do, and Lee moulds aren't expensive
 
Your going to hate 777 due to powder fowling and reloading with sabots,I only ever had 1 deer go more than 50ft with a 295 powerbelt, most fall right there but I only shoot for heart/lung shots and you can pour the lungs out, I have had some pass throughs but that's not always the case, I had very little problems reloading PB, 209 load all day just clean well like normal and easy loading.
I agree with the 295, I never had deer travel more than 30 yds so blood trailing was never an issue but if that shot ever does happen I would like that possibility, also getting my son into muzzle loading next yr. He is 8 this yr. So I need that possibility of both holes. But I am concerned with lower powder charges.
 
I have not witnessed that to be true. I've seen (on the clubs I work for) a TON of deer lost to saboted pistol bullets. Now maybe it's the lack of shooting skill of the hunters. Very possible. But I/we have never lost a deer to a 50-caliber chunk of lead.
Definitely the shooters fault, none of them lost were through the boiler room , no matter what the shooter says
 
Don't worry about lower speed, a stout bullet is more apt to pass through at low velocity due to less expansion., my brother shot a bunch with heavy Buffaloe bullets with 50g of Pyrodex many years ago. keep the shots low in the chest cavity so it doesn't have to fill up with blood before it pours out.
 
I used MaxiBalls for years and years. Loved their performance on the range and on deer, EXCEPT how hard they are to get down the barrel. I've literally had to pound a second shot down the barrel with anything at hand, or ram the ramrod against the tree I'm in to get them to go down a fowled barrel. If it wasn't for the difficulty of loading in a fowled barrel (and even a clean barrel for that matter) I would still be using them.

Do you use the pre-lubed ones? I've not had a problem with them. I've used a couple of black powder substitutes but never black powder - don't know if that matters. Or maybe this is one of those "personal" differences between muzzleloaders.

I can't imagine what my frustration would be if had a round stuck part way in the barrel.
 
Do you use the pre-lubed ones? I've not had a problem with them. I've used a couple of black powder substitutes but never black powder - don't know if that matters. Or maybe this is one of those "personal" differences between muzzleloaders.

I can't imagine what my frustration would be if had a round stuck part way in the barrel.
Yup, matters a ton. Very little fouling with substitutes. Lots of fouling with real black powder.
 
I shoot a Savage smokeless with a .458 Barnes Original 300 grain bullet in a sabot. I've never recovered one; they always pass through. I believe it would pass through end to end.

Prior to shooting smokeless I always used Barnes expanders. I recovered a lot of those just under the hide on the off side. But the entrance wounds left a lot of blood and the insides were destroyed. Never lost a deer with those, and I shot a lot of them.

I think you should reconsider your bias against sabots. It's not the sabot but the bullet that matters.
 
My main muzzleloader is a TC Omega. My buddy has one as well, and we've both noticed how tight the bores are. I used to use Pyrodex RS in everything, and still like it, but I've stuck a ramrod deep into my hand on a couple of occasions loading a second shot because of the barrel being fouled after only one shot.

I switched to Blackhorn 209 and it's much better now loading on a fouled barrel. Still tight as a tick, but better.

For those guys who prefer a heavy lead bullet and ultra tight bores, is it possible to size your bore and send the measurements to a custom mould maker and have them make you a mould? If so, that'd involve casting, but might be an option.
 
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