Adjusting camera angle

[BSK]

Need some advice from all the camera users. I'm trying to advise those running censuses with a large number of cameras on how to set up the cameras for a good census. Often the bait site is up or downhill from the tree the camera is strapped too, but most camera manufacturers do not make a back to their cameras than can be tilted. This can produce images of just deer's ears or hooves instead of a full body picture. How do you all adjust your camera aim up or down? I would like to give advice better than "jam stick behind it!" Personally, I have almost as many Slate River screw in ball-mount camera mounts to cover all my cams, but that would be an expensive endeavor for those running 20+ cameras. Plus, the screw-in ball mount systems will limit the ability to use a security box for a camera. Personally, if I'm worried about a screw-in ball-mounted camera "walking away," I still run a python cable through the camera loops and around the tree, but that is not as secure as a security box.

 

[DMD]

I seriously use a stick either on the top or bottom and tighten the strap to hold the stick. Nothing more simple than that. I did make myself some pretty nice camera mounts out of discarded dish network parts. The part that allows you to swivel the dish up and down - utilized it to make my swivel camera mounts. Sorry...I'm not much help. LOL.

 

[Planking]

Most of my cameras are on the homemade mounts and they aren't as dependable as sticks and a tight strap.

 

[Livin2hunt]

I've got 29 cell cams going at the moment and sorry but I'm that stick guy also. I use a couple of the screw in mounts when sticking a camera on a branch away from the tree trunk or placing on a fallen tree. Sticks are too plentiful to not use them and to easy to get the size you need. I do take pruning snips with me to get a green stick though.

 

[DoubleRidge]

Another "stick guy" checking in...lol....but I guess, for those that do wood working, a guy could cut a set of blocks, wedges, etc. Different thicknesses and angles....keep a variety of sizes in camera pack...might be handy.

 

[JCDEERMAN]

I'm a stick guy as well. Couple recommendations above I'll will probably switch to: make sure pruning snips are in camera bag enabling a fresh stick, and precut shims of different angles.

 

[ADR]

I put all of my cameras on home made mounts. There are videos on how to make them but essentially consist of two eye bolts bolted together. One eye bolt is 1/4-20 machine threaded to attach to the camera and the other is a course thread for screwing into the tree. I can take pictures if you need a more detailed explanation.

This allows pan and tilt of the camera

 

[BSK]

I put all of my cameras on home made mounts. There are videos on how to make them but essentially consist of two eye bolts bolted together. One eye bolt is 1/4-20 machine threaded to attach to the camera and the other is a course thread for screwing into the tree. I can take pictures if you need a more detailed explanation.

This allows pan and tilt of the camera

I remember seeing those discussed on the QDMA/NDA website. Definitely a cheap way to make tiltable mounts.

 

[Patrick H]

You might consider buying some shims at the hardware store. A package of them is inexpensive and they usually include a dozen or more. Just an idea, I have not tried it. I only have 6 cameras and use a stick if needed.

 

[BSK]

I use these for mounting on a tree:

Slate River Stealth Game Camera Mount

The Slate River Stealth EZ-Aim game camera mount is simple and easy to use. Mount your camera in seconds to a tree & take the perfect angled wildlife shot.

www.trailcampro.com

And these for mounting on a t-post, but having enough of either of these for a 20-30 camera census would get seriously expensive:

Slate River T Post Mount

Check out this compact Slate River T-Post trail and game camera mount from Trailcampro! This mount can rotate and tilt, making it perfect for quick positioning.

www.trailcampro.com

 

[Ski]

I put all of my cameras on home made mounts. There are videos on how to make them but essentially consist of two eye bolts bolted together. One eye bolt is 1/4-20 machine threaded to attach to the camera and the other is a course thread for screwing into the tree. I can take pictures if you need a more detailed explanation.

This allows pan and tilt of the camera

Best DIY ever for trail cams. I machine my own washers out of phenolic but have used regular washers as well.

 

[BSK]

That's the ticket!

 

[Ski]

That's the ticket!

Yessir. And much cheaper than buying screw in mounts. Lowes or Home Depot and you're off to the races. Adjust for any angle and no hassle with straps.

Here's a pic of what you'd need from hardware store and then what it looks like assembled. Pretty self explanatory but figured a picture is worth 1000 words. The mini power screwdriver stays in my pack for predrilling holes in the trees. Got it off Amazon for like $20. I hang cams on trees, stumps, horizontal branches, wooden fence posts, etc. no problem.

 

[JCDEERMAN]

Best DIY ever for trail cams. I machine my own washers out of phenolic but have used regular washers as well.

View attachment 240911

I went and bought everything several years ago and made these. Quit using them just because of all the hassle getting them into the tree. After a couple installs, I was getting a workout , even when using a fairly long flathead for leverage

 

[TheLBLman]

I am also a fan of the Slate River Mounts, although most my cams are in steel security boxes.

If you use a steel security box, you are somewhat back to square one.
All the below is regarding using cams inside steel security boxes.

With the boxes, there are some "tricks" to get them pointed up or down as you need them.

One trick is to carve (knife, hatchet, whatever) off a little tree bark on either the top or bottom edge of the security box.

Another trick is to place a shim (or stick, or whatever) behind either the top or bottom of the box, before finalizing the attachment.

My most common "trick" is to layer a few strips of Gorilla tape to either the back top or back bottom of the cam itself, then place the cam back in the steel security box. Three strips of Gorilla tape to the back top of a cam will often get the cam aim tilted down @ 5 degrees or so.

Or instead of sticking the tape to the cam, you can stick it to the inside of the security box. This method works very well when you're just needing to go up or down a small amount.

There is also one adjustable steel box mount that works, but what I don't like about it is it causes your cam box to be pretty far out from the tree, making your cam more visible to both trespassers & deer.
But this steel box mount is adjustable in every direction:

Universal Security Case Swivel Bracket

This swivel camera mount can attach to any security case, making it easy to use. Order this universal camera mounting bracket online at Trailcampro today!

www.trailcampro.com

These will run you @ $35 each, just for the adjustable mount (which does not include the security box).

 

[PickettSFHunter]

I use the screw in mounts that tilt and pan. Almost all of my cameras get hung at least 10 ft high due to bears ripping them down so this is needed for the angle. Bears will still get a few but it helps to hang them high at least.

 

[backyardtndeer]

How do you all adjust your camera aim up or down? I would like to give advice better than "jam stick behind it!"

With using cable locks around cameras and trees, this or shims is about the only way. Any other method, like the mounts ski posted would not be easy to use a cable lock with, and would be more prone to easy theft. I do like ski's diy mount though.

 

[Ski]

I went and bought everything several years ago and made these. Quit using them just because of all the hassle getting them into the tree. After a couple installs, I was getting a workout , even when using a fairly long flathead for leverage

Lol that's what the tiny cordless screwdriver with drill bit is for Makes all the difference. They screw into a pre-drilled hole really easy & smooth. Took me only a few times using those mounts before I was on Amazon shopping for a drill to keep in my pack.

 

[TheLBLman]

If your primary concern is preventing theft, steel security boxes, screwed into the the tree are usually the best method. But by using the steel boxes, you then make your cam location more noticeable to a trespasser. Nothing is theft proof. You just take reasonable steps to deter theft.

Another theft-preventative method has long been using a Python cable lock thru the cam & around the tree. Unfortunately, that cable all the way around the tree then makes that cam location more visible, then perhaps more likely to be stolen than if no cable lock were used.

To prevent or reduce bear damage, steel security boxes may be the best bet.

I like to use old (often non-working) cams as "dummy" cams.
These are positioned to be more visible to a trespasser, and within the field of view of a nearby more hidden cam (usually a cell cam).

Another theft-reducing strategy is to mount your cams @ 9 ft high (or higher), well beyond the reach of most trespassers. If you do this, it's usually a necessity to have a very adjustable mount (like the Slate River mounts). I use camo tape to make both the mount & the cam harder to notice. The Slate River mounts do have some pretty bright chrome that needs to be taped over.

 

[Ski]

With using cable locks around cameras and trees, this or shims is about the only way. Any other method, like the mounts ski posted would not be easy to use a cable lock with, and would be more prone to easy theft. I do like ski's diy mount though.

I use the Master Python cable locks with no issue. On one property in particular I had about a dozen cameras stolen so I had to start locking them on and also started running some cell cams way up high watching the other cams. The Python locks worked great.