Food Plots Best food plot seed

Ski

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Coffee County
Honestly, I think the duff eventually builds up so deep with throw and mow that eventually it's almost impossible to get seed to soil contact. I suspect I will till my plots about once every 3-4 years.

That's pretty much what I experienced. Duff and leaf litter collectively built up so fast I hit diminishing returns by the second season trying it. And it got progressively worse each season. Last year I felt like a fool broadcasting money onto the ground knowing it was all for nothing, and the germination rate confirmed it. But I was committed to giving the method an honest effort.

I really think if I could have burned I would have had a much different experience. But that's not an option. Tilling is what's available to me and although I'm well aware of the potential pitfalls, it's the best option for my situation and it undeniably works.
 

BSK

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I don't know how you were doing your throw-and-mow, but one thing that drastically improved my germination rate was spreading the seed before mowing. Then mow and spray immediately afterwards (or with 24 hours). Throwing seed on top the duff is a waste of seed. But covering the seed with the duff helps a lot.
 

Ski

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I don't know how you were doing your throw-and-mow, but one thing that drastically improved my germination rate was spreading the seed before mowing. Then mow and spray immediately afterwards (or with 24 hours). Throwing seed on top the duff is a waste of seed. But covering the seed with the duff helps a lot.

That's kind of how I did it. I'd spray, wait a few days for a good rain forecast, then broadcast and immediately mow the dying vegetation over the seed. It seemed promising the very first time. Not as good as tilling but acceptable. From then on it was progressively less effective.

In hindsight I can clearly see the issues I ran into and they make total sense now. Had I considered them beforehand, I probably wouldn't have tried the throw & mow. It was a learning experience.

The issue was mostly leaf litter and lack of width. The widest point of my widest plot is maybe 40yds. Most of the plots range 10yds-20yds in width. And all are in big mature hardwood forests. As leaves would fall they'd get sifted down into the standing grain. Then when I'd terminate the grain & mow, the leaves and duff would get trapped in the stubble, preventing seed from ever touching dirt. I couldn't mow any lower than about 4" because of unseen uneven ground, rocks, limbs, etc. I did try a landscape rake before mowing but all it did was fill up with debris in about 3ft and then just skip across the top. Tried a leaf blower once but it did nothing. Again, it's all stuff I probably should have thought of beforehand but didn't.

I don't fault the method or blame my failure on it. I truly do believe the method has very real merit. But I also have learned from experience that it's site specific. If I had enough open ground that leaf fall wasn't such an issue I think it could work. If I could burn I'm sure it would work. But I don't think it lends well to long narrow plots in steep hogback ridge country hardwoods.
 

BSK

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I've got a long, narrow bottomland plot (about 150 yards long but only 10 yards wide) that now will no longer grow anything. And the problem is sunlight. The surrounding trees have grown their tops towards the sunlight in the center of the plot and now it only gets about an hour a day of sunlight. Time to get out the chainsaws this coming winter and cut a bunch of surrounding trees.
 

Ski

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Nov 18, 2019
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4,620
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Coffee County
I've got a long, narrow bottomland plot (about 150 yards long but only 10 yards wide) that now will no longer grow anything. And the problem is sunlight. The surrounding trees have grown their tops towards the sunlight in the center of the plot and now it only gets about an hour a day of sunlight. Time to get out the chainsaws this coming winter and cut a bunch of surrounding trees.

Yessir that's a never ending maintenance if you're gona have deep woods plots.
 

Ski

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Nov 18, 2019
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Coffee County
I swear, food plots are so much work I wonder why I keep working on them! I bet I spend more than 70% of my total maintenance time on my property every year on food plots.

Oh I believe it. But it's worth it. I can easily see the quality of hunt vary depending on how much effort I put in during the off season. If I get my chores done it's a good hunt. If I skimp on the work then the hunt suffers for it.
 

Gobble4me757

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Nov 16, 2021
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Jackson
Get some wms deer magnet and you will see fantastic results both deer and turkey wise. It's made a significant difference from just your coop mixes versus the wms products
 

Gobble4me757

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Nov 16, 2021
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512
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Jackson
Where can u locate the wms deer magnet that can be shipped ?

This should help. No I'm not sponsored by them nor know any of them, just have seen deer all over bama in different areas as well as Mississippi love the stuff. It's around $50, but it plants 1 acre and they will tell you don't overseed it so not as expensive as it seems…we did this and it is right on the money. We went from seeing 1 or two deer a sit to 3-8 deer a sit as they came to our fields over our neighbors for once including killing nice bucks on it. The clovers are a big draw for the turkeys as well. It also has some stuff in it that act as a summer plot as well. All in all, our whole crew has been very pleased with it. We also did the Mississippi blend and liked it as well.
 

megalomaniac

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Oct 28, 2005
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15,004
Location
Mississippi
I've got a long, narrow bottomland plot (about 150 yards long but only 10 yards wide) that now will no longer grow anything. And the problem is sunlight. The surrounding trees have grown their tops towards the sunlight in the center of the plot and now it only gets about an hour a day of sunlight. Time to get out the chainsaws this coming winter and cut a bunch of surrounding trees.
Annual ryegrass.

Terrible nutritional value, but will still grow and attract deer. Better than nothing!
 

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