Bow Sighting

[jlmustain]

As I've mentioned before, I'm new to bow hunting. Well, new to bows in general. I've gotten my bow set up for me (peep, kisser, draw weight, draw length, etc.). I picked up a target, and after a little training, I'm shooting with proper form, and I'm at least hitting the target.

Now I need to sight the pins in. The guy at the bow shop told me the pins are usually set for 20, 30, and 40 yards, and I have no reason to believe that isn't true, but I'd like to see what y'all set your pins to. Also, so that I don't get the cart before the horse, I'd like to know how y'all "zero" each pin on your bows. I'm sure that's not the term, but I'm sure you know what I mean. Do I use groups? If so, am I to use three for a group? Is there some sort of sled? If I'm set while standing on the ground, do I need to make adjustments in aiming when I'm shooting from a stand or is it the same as being on the ground?

Thanks, in advance, for the help, y'all.

 

[TNDeerGuy]

Glad you got some pointers and got someone to setup the bow for you.

As far as sighting it in...do it just like rifle�3 shots, find center average, and move the pin toward the point of impact and then do it over until you get on target. Most people, me included, when using multiple pins set at 10 yard increments starting at 20 yards (20, 30, 40, 50, etc...).

When shooting from an elevated position, your point of impact will be slightly above your aimpoint�the steeper the angle...the more exagerated that difference will be. For instance (this is just an example), if you are 20 feet high and your target is 10 yards from your tree, your arrow will hit above where you aimed by an 1"-2". At 20 feet high and the target is 20 yards from the tree the arrow will impact 1/2" high from where you aimed. This is because at severe angles, upward or downward, the effect of gravity has on the parabolic flight of the arrow changes versus shooting from parallel to the ground where gravity is constant. Every arrow/bow combo will be different and I highly suggest that you practice shooting from elevated positions before the season opens and see what your differences will be.

 

[jlmustain]

Wow, okay, I have some work to do! Ha! I was missing the mark about a foot high. Light left me, so I'll have to go back to it in the morning. Thanks, TNDeerGuy.

 

[TNDeerGuy]

I should have included this as well...start off at 5-10 yards and set your 20yard pin to that. That is the same as "getting on paper", then move back to twenty yards and you should be close�this will keep you from losing arrows. Also, stay at 20 yards for awhile, at least until you can consistently get good groups at that yardage and then move back and sight in your 30 yard pin and stay there until you get groups at that yardage and then go back to 40 and so forth.

There is no reason for a beginning archer to be rushing to increase the amount of distance they are shooting�all that does is create an enviroment in which confidence problems and shot sequence/form issues can grow and it takes alot more time to fix those issues than it did to start them.

Also, if your using a trigger-style of release, shorten the release to the point where the trigger is very deep in your 1st or 2nd knuckle and get it off of the tip of your finger�it isn't a rifle trigger and shouldn't be fired as one.

 

[PinchPoint]

When your sighting in with bows remember that it is different than sighting in a rifle... your hitting high-move your pins up, hitting left-move them left etc.

 

[stik]

1 pin set at 25 yds.

 

[Poleaxe]

If you get the urge check on a HHA sight. It eliminates looking for all the pins while placing them on your target. You have one pin and you sight it in for all the yardages you need and when your makinging the shot u just slid the sight adjustor to the yardage ur going to shoot and u look down at just 1 pin. The least amount of pins u have will be easier on you with just starting out. If u decide to stay with the multi-pin find your drop off range. Step back and shoot 20,25,30,35 & find what yardage it starts significantly dropping (no more than 2inches) and use that for your 1st pin. The higher end will be right for the elevated shot like tndeerguy stated above. Hit me up if u need anything else.

 

[Smoked]

Also, if your using a trigger-style of release, shorten the release to the point where the trigger is very deep in your 1st or 2nd knuckle and get it off of the tip of your finger�it isn't a rifle trigger and shouldn't be fired as one.

Not to hijack this thread but what is your reasoning behind this? I shoot a trigger style and it is right on the tip of my finger just like a gun. Just courious

 

[TNDeerGuy]

Also, if your using a trigger-style of release, shorten the release to the point where the trigger is very deep in your 1st or 2nd knuckle and get it off of the tip of your finger�it isn't a rifle trigger and shouldn't be fired as one.

Not to hijack this thread but what is your reasoning behind this? I shoot a trigger style and it is right on the tip of my finger just like a gun. Just courious

I have found that people, especially inexperienced/new archers, have a tendency to "punch" the trigger, which negatively affects the shot sequence, and by putting it deep in your finger it makes it much easier to squeeze the trigger, or even use back tension, while alleviating the tendency to punch the trigger. Actually, I have my release setup to where I use the 2nd joint/knuckle of my middle finger as my release, instead of the normal index finger.

 

[Smoked]

Also, if your using a trigger-style of release, shorten the release to the point where the trigger is very deep in your 1st or 2nd knuckle and get it off of the tip of your finger�it isn't a rifle trigger and shouldn't be fired as one.

Not to hijack this thread but what is your reasoning behind this? I shoot a trigger style and it is right on the tip of my finger just like a gun. Just courious

I have found that people, especially inexperienced/new archers, have a tendency to "punch" the trigger, which negatively affects the shot sequence, and by putting it deep in your finger it makes it much easier to squeeze the trigger, or even use back tension, while alleviating the tendency to punch the trigger. Actually, I have my release setup to where I use the 2nd joint/knuckle of my middle finger as my release, instead of the normal index finger.

Cool just wondering.

 

[jb3]

I have two pins sighted, 15 and 25 yards.

 

[deerhunter10]

start close like 5-10 yards... and my pins are 20,30,40,50,60 also when sighting in follow the arrow... what I mean by that is if you are missing low move pins lowers and vice versa.