Bow tuning question; again

It just pisses me off to pay to have something done and it not be done the right way. My favorite local guy closed, so I had to resort to the one that I didn't want to go to, but was desperate to shoot a tuned bow so I took it anyways. I will never go again.

I think he knows what he is doing, but I get the feel he is too high and mighty to take the time to help average bow hunters like me because I don't shoot in competitions and bow hunt year round and out west and for turkeys that I am not good enough to have a properly tuned bow.
Sorry for the rant.
 
woodsman87 said:
It just pisses me off to pay to have something done and it not be done the right way. My favorite local guy closed, so I had to resort to the one that I didn't want to go to, but was desperate to shoot a tuned bow so I took it anyways. I will never go again.

I think he knows what he is doing, but I get the feel he is too high and mighty to take the time to help average bow hunters like me because I don't shoot in competitions and bow hunt year round and out west and for turkeys that I am not good enough to have a properly tuned bow.
Sorry for the rant.
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Get on you tube and watch some vids. Its easier to do than you think and with some trial and error you can be done with it in a half day or less.
 
woodsman87 said:
The bow tuner I use is equivelant to a crooked car mechanic or an electrician, plumber, whatever

Some guys are rip offs, like the one I used. I'm not totally ignorant about a car engine or something so mechanics can't rip me off, but as far as getting a bow to shoot right, I am totally ignorant.

I am just too far to drive to the place yall describe at energy wave, and don't want to ship my bow. (maybe later)

I will just wait until Muzzleloader season to hunt again.

You guys have taught me alot about my bow and I appreciate it. I know for a fact that I am a good shot with my bow and have good form, because I am good with practice points. Fixed blades though, many differnt brands, do not work. I have grown tired of it and I guess I will just stick with what works in expandables.
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Where are you located? I am in southern middle mmyself
 
Fordman said:
woodsman87 said:
The bow tuner I use is equivelant to a crooked car mechanic or an electrician, plumber, whatever

Some guys are rip offs, like the one I used. I'm not totally ignorant about a car engine or something so mechanics can't rip me off, but as far as getting a bow to shoot right, I am totally ignorant.

I am just too far to drive to the place yall describe at energy wave, and don't want to ship my bow. (maybe later)

I will just wait until Muzzleloader season to hunt again.

You guys have taught me alot about my bow and I appreciate it. I know for a fact that I am a good shot with my bow and have good form, because I am good with practice points. Fixed blades though, many differnt brands, do not work. I have grown tired of it and I guess I will just stick with what works in expandables.
Click to expand...

Where are you located? I am in southern middle mmyself
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and a good Bowsmith!
 
jb357 said:
I

Id be willing to put my 100 yard broadhead groups up against just about anyones 100 yard freehand rifle groups.
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:laugh: Where do I sign up for this?

TNDeerGuy helped me over the phone salvage my season. These guys can really help you out. My advice would be: No matter what your experience, don't overlook the human element. :grin:

Thanks again for the help and look forward to things calming down so I can get out to shoot with you, and pick up a new grip :whistle:
 
My goal for 2014 is to get a press and arrow saw. With my Hoyt tuning can be done by adjusting twists in the yoke. I want to be able to make small adjustments if needed, install peeps, install new strings, and build arrows. A draw board will also be in the future.

I want to get to where I can buy a bow from a dealer, thank them and walk back out the door and do all the work myself. It's just part of the progression as an archer.
 
I don't mind trying to learn how to tune my bow myself, but I do not want to mess it up worse and ruin my bow or get it worse than what it already is. I have been reading about it and it is talking about twisting the cable and stuff, I don't want to mess with all of that. That is why I am willing to pay someone that I trust to do it the right way. I can be easily fooled with these bows since I know nothing about tuning and timing them.
 
I tried to get on Archery talk and somebody had some pics posted of what the timing holes look like on a drenaline, but the pics aint showing up.
Also got on the Mathews website to look at pics of the timing holes, their pics aren't showing up either.
 
woodsman87 said:
I tried to get on Archery talk and somebody had some pics posted of what the timing holes look like on a drenaline, but the pics aint showing up.
Also got on the Mathews website to look at pics of the timing holes, their pics aren't showing up either.
Click to expand...

I just saw this and ran outside and snapped this....sorry for the poor demonstration of pics. This is the Reezen cam, but the Drenalin's cam timing holes will be in between my index and pinky and the two q-tip ends. In the pic there is not a hole on top of my index finger, but on yours there will be. They changed the timing window on the newer Mathews so you don't have to do what you going to have to do�the newer models have the big window to the left of my index finger and if the cable perfectly bisects that window the cam is in time. You have my number if you need it.
 
I've found over the years tuning bows can be frustrating at times. My best advice is don't shoot too many arrows. I have found my accuracy goes down relatively quick if I shoot more than about 20 or so arrows.

I start out fresh again the next day when my muscles recover.
 
Sometimes I think the worse thing I could have done was got a bow press for myself. It started out being a tool that I could use at home to do simple stuff....like putting in the peep sight for example. I didn't see the use in driving 30 miles each way to a bow shop, just to put a peep in for me. Plus a lot of bows have module systems that require you to take tension off the bow in order to change them.

Everything was good when I was just doing simple stuff like that. Then the tweaking began. I began to over think my bows tune...and it was spending more time in the press with me "tweaking" than it was in my hands shooting. The big problem occurs when I would end up getting it way out of whack...then have to drive the 30 miles to have an expert put it back anyway lol It's all been a learning process but as long as I leave well enough alone, I'm okay. I've really started to figure out the tuning of these 2 track binary cam systems though.
 

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