Bow tuning questions and advice please. long read

[bowhunter163]

You can also do a quick check of the basic timing/tuning issues with that bow�make sure the limbs are maxed out to 70lbs. As CT stated measure your brace height (measured from the string to either the berger hole or the most forward part of the grip...yours should measure at 7") and axle to axle (33" from pin to pin on the axles). I also would check centershot�at the berger hole on the arrow side (hole in the riser that your rest is attached with) measure from the riser to the center of a nocked arrow (that measurement should be somewhere between 11/16-13/16ths". Also while the arrow is nocked it should completely cover, or center, the berger hole�it shouldn't be below it or above it. Check cam lean�lay an arrow on the top idler wheel and let it run down the string past the nock point��it should be around 1/4" off the string to directly under the string at the nock point. Cam timing...there are two 3/32nd holes in the bottom cam that are across from each other near the midpoint of the cam. Take two 3/32nd pins, or nails, and place in the holes. Next tie a long piece of string around the back pin and run it across the top pin to where it comes over the top and runs down the bow�that string and the bow string should be completely parallel.

Keep in mind that these are starting points, but your numbers should not drastically different if your bow is tuned or timed correctly. To fix any of these isn't rocket science, but you will need a press for some of it in case you need to add a twist or remove a twist.

Thanks TNDeerGuy, you sound like you know what your talking about. I will have to check on all of this. My first step though is to get heavier arrows.

don't make tndeerguys's head swell up now . Lol

 

[woodsman87]

You can also do a quick check of the basic timing/tuning issues with that bow�make sure the limbs are maxed out to 70lbs. As CT stated measure your brace height (measured from the string to either the berger hole or the most forward part of the grip...yours should measure at 7") and axle to axle (33" from pin to pin on the axles). I also would check centershot�at the berger hole on the arrow side (hole in the riser that your rest is attached with) measure from the riser to the center of a nocked arrow (that measurement should be somewhere between 11/16-13/16ths". Also while the arrow is nocked it should completely cover, or center, the berger hole�it shouldn't be below it or above it. Check cam lean�lay an arrow on the top idler wheel and let it run down the string past the nock point��it should be around 1/4" off the string to directly under the string at the nock point. Cam timing...there are two 3/32nd holes in the bottom cam that are across from each other near the midpoint of the cam. Take two 3/32nd pins, or nails, and place in the holes. Next tie a long piece of string around the back pin and run it across the top pin to where it comes over the top and runs down the bow�that string and the bow string should be completely parallel.

Keep in mind that these are starting points, but your numbers should not drastically different if your bow is tuned or timed correctly. To fix any of these isn't rocket science, but you will need a press for some of it in case you need to add a twist or remove a twist.

Thanks TNDeerGuy, you sound like you know what your talking about. I will have to check on all of this. My first step though is to get heavier arrows.

don't make tndeerguys's head swell up now . Lol

HAHA Im being serious. You to Bowhunter163. Obviously your screen name isn't bowhunter for no reason. I needed some help and advice, and I got exactly what I needed. Now I just need to get me new arrows, measure my specs, and hopefully get it to an archery shop that has a bow press if needed.

 

[bowhunter163]

You can also do a quick check of the basic timing/tuning issues with that bow�make sure the limbs are maxed out to 70lbs. As CT stated measure your brace height (measured from the string to either the berger hole or the most forward part of the grip...yours should measure at 7") and axle to axle (33" from pin to pin on the axles). I also would check centershot�at the berger hole on the arrow side (hole in the riser that your rest is attached with) measure from the riser to the center of a nocked arrow (that measurement should be somewhere between 11/16-13/16ths". Also while the arrow is nocked it should completely cover, or center, the berger hole�it shouldn't be below it or above it. Check cam lean�lay an arrow on the top idler wheel and let it run down the string past the nock point��it should be around 1/4" off the string to directly under the string at the nock point. Cam timing...there are two 3/32nd holes in the bottom cam that are across from each other near the midpoint of the cam. Take two 3/32nd pins, or nails, and place in the holes. Next tie a long piece of string around the back pin and run it across the top pin to where it comes over the top and runs down the bow�that string and the bow string should be completely parallel.

Keep in mind that these are starting points, but your numbers should not drastically different if your bow is tuned or timed correctly. To fix any of these isn't rocket science, but you will need a press for some of it in case you need to add a twist or remove a twist.

Thanks TNDeerGuy, you sound like you know what your talking about. I will have to check on all of this. My first step though is to get heavier arrows.

don't make tndeerguys's head swell up now . Lol

HAHA Im being serious. You to Bowhunter163. Obviously your screen name isn't bowhunter for no reason. I needed some help and advice, and I got exactly what I needed. Now I just need to get me new arrows, measure my specs, and hopefully get it to an archery shop that has a bow press if needed.

I wish you the best of luck with it and I wish i was closer so I could help more . I'm sure tndeerguy wishes he was as well . If you could make the trip Matt at Energy Wave would definitely take care of ya .

 

[muddyboots]

Also Mathews bows have a tricky grip. Try to make sure u hold it exactly the same every time.

 

[woodsman87]

Also Mathews bows have a tricky grip. Try to make sure u hold it exactly the same every time.

Actually I have picked up on that muddy boots. It took me some practice and lots of shots to finally get a grip figured out. I was actually proud of myself when I "taught" myself how to hold it.

 

[TNDeerGuy]

Would all of yall suggest that I needed a 340 spine? No weaker than that?

Yes, I would go with no lighter than a 340 spine if it were on my bow. You have the specs I stated earlier as a reference and it would be worth the 1 hour drive to come up here and see Matt @ EnergyWave. While Mathews bows aren't terribly difficult to work on and tune, for some reason or another very few people can seem to get them right, and the two Mathews dealers in close proximity to Nashville are on that list�something always gets "overlooked", half-done or called "close enough" and that is not how it should be done IMO. I do all of my own work and tuning, but if I didn't Matt is the only one I would let touch my bow anywhere here in Mid-TN. He can order anything you want, if it doesn't have it in stock, if you call him in advance.

As far as the walnut Mathews grip�you either love it, or you don't. Me personally, they don't fit my hand very well and for that reason I always change the walnut grip out with the Mathews Focus grip�it is a lot thinner and is not as easy to torque as the walnut one is and that may be something you want to look at.

 

[UTGrad]

I had a Focus grip on my Z7 Magnum and MR6...excellent grip upgrade.

 

[TITANSFAN2104]

Nowadays its almost useless to look at weight rating and such on arrows because what worked great in a 70lb mathews solocam 5 years ago would be horrible in todays more efficient dual cam bows. Alot of bows now transfer the same energy and achieve the same speeds at 60 lb that other bows require 70lbs to achieve.