TheLBLman
Well-Known Member
MOUNTING OPTIONS:
With all trail cams, you have to decide how you're going to mount or place.
Most commonly, we're going to somehow attach to a tree.
A few years ago, I obtained a large quantity of Python cable locks, keyed alike.
The Python locks are a convenient way of mounting,
and at least somewhat more secure regarding theft than the nylon web straps
which come with most trail cams.
If you go the Python cable route, one great feature of the Browning cell cams is the cam's mounting plate is made of steel, while most cams are made of plastic. Plastic mounts degrade over time, becoming brittle, making those cams easier to just "rip off" a tree, leaving the Python cable lock intact.
Some other non-cellular Browning cams also have the steel mounting plates.
More recently, I'm mounting more of my cams using steel boxes, which can sometimes be less noticeable to a trespasser compared to a strap or cable completely circling a tree.
If you go the steel box route, I highly recommend the boxes made by Trail Cam Pro, as they are tougher, and work better than those manufactured by Browning. The boxes manufactured by Browning may "look" nicer due to their camo finish, but they are bad about warping, and sticking, and I've had to use a hammer & screwdriver to open them up in the field. Prices for either are about the same.
Also, the folks at Trail Cam Pro are very knowledgeable and helpful should you have any questions or problems with most any make or brand.
http://www.trailcampro.com
If you go the steel box route, you can use Gorilla brand camo duct tape for additional concealment. I also use this tape on most exposed cams as well, both for camo, and to decrease the possibility of internal moisture. I like to use the tape to make a bit of a "hood" right above the lens, which helps a bit when it's raining or there's a big dew or frost.
Gorilla brand camo tape is the only one I've found that is dull, and not shiny.
You can additionally use it to tape leaves & small limbs directly to your cam (or cam box) for additional concealment.
Be careful to place leaves where the wind cannot shift them over your lens, sensors, or flash.
I'm often using my cams as much for security as wildlife trapping, so another reason I like the Browning trail cell cams is they come with the option to set for invisible "black" flash. Also always use black flash over scrapes, as older deer can be more sensitive to being flashed. My "go to" cams for both security & wildlife trapping have become the (non-cellular) Browning Dark Ops, in large part because of it's overall great value, small footprint, and black flash.
"Competition" is what make our free-enterprise system (capitalism) sizzle.
I look for the prices of cell cams/service to continue its decrease,
while the cell cam units will become more feature rich and reliable.
When I first started experimenting with cell cams several years ago, I was extremely disappointed.
Today, I'm very amazed with the technology and reliability,
along with much lower costs.
With all trail cams, you have to decide how you're going to mount or place.
Most commonly, we're going to somehow attach to a tree.
A few years ago, I obtained a large quantity of Python cable locks, keyed alike.
The Python locks are a convenient way of mounting,
and at least somewhat more secure regarding theft than the nylon web straps
which come with most trail cams.
If you go the Python cable route, one great feature of the Browning cell cams is the cam's mounting plate is made of steel, while most cams are made of plastic. Plastic mounts degrade over time, becoming brittle, making those cams easier to just "rip off" a tree, leaving the Python cable lock intact.
Some other non-cellular Browning cams also have the steel mounting plates.
More recently, I'm mounting more of my cams using steel boxes, which can sometimes be less noticeable to a trespasser compared to a strap or cable completely circling a tree.
If you go the steel box route, I highly recommend the boxes made by Trail Cam Pro, as they are tougher, and work better than those manufactured by Browning. The boxes manufactured by Browning may "look" nicer due to their camo finish, but they are bad about warping, and sticking, and I've had to use a hammer & screwdriver to open them up in the field. Prices for either are about the same.
Also, the folks at Trail Cam Pro are very knowledgeable and helpful should you have any questions or problems with most any make or brand.
http://www.trailcampro.com
If you go the steel box route, you can use Gorilla brand camo duct tape for additional concealment. I also use this tape on most exposed cams as well, both for camo, and to decrease the possibility of internal moisture. I like to use the tape to make a bit of a "hood" right above the lens, which helps a bit when it's raining or there's a big dew or frost.
Gorilla brand camo tape is the only one I've found that is dull, and not shiny.
You can additionally use it to tape leaves & small limbs directly to your cam (or cam box) for additional concealment.
Be careful to place leaves where the wind cannot shift them over your lens, sensors, or flash.
I'm often using my cams as much for security as wildlife trapping, so another reason I like the Browning trail cell cams is they come with the option to set for invisible "black" flash. Also always use black flash over scrapes, as older deer can be more sensitive to being flashed. My "go to" cams for both security & wildlife trapping have become the (non-cellular) Browning Dark Ops, in large part because of it's overall great value, small footprint, and black flash.
"Competition" is what make our free-enterprise system (capitalism) sizzle.
I look for the prices of cell cams/service to continue its decrease,
while the cell cam units will become more feature rich and reliable.
When I first started experimenting with cell cams several years ago, I was extremely disappointed.
Today, I'm very amazed with the technology and reliability,
along with much lower costs.
