Food Plots Buffalo Method? I'm convinced.

[WilcoKen]

I don't know the official name but I am convinced of this method of planting now. I broadcast seed (oats/wheat), then bush hogged right after broadcasting. Then the hurricane rains hit. It is looking great!

 

[Rockhound]

It's all I've done for 5 years now. They aren't as pretty as plots on TV that have been disced and groomed but it flat works and I'm convinced more deer will use it because it's more natural.

 

[megalomaniac]

That's the 'throw and mow' method. Can work great of you double seeding rates and you don't have weeds or a lot of grasses that compete with fall crops.

The twist to kill competing weeds/ grasses is 'spray, throw, and mow'. You will get a better and cleaner plot. Still requires double the seeding rate.

The 'Buffalo system' was coined by Grant Woods. Basically terminate weeds with a crimper (simulating a herd of Buffalo trampling the standing vegetation to the ground) then drill (or drill, then crimp). No spray, no bushhog is the advantage. The other advantage is you are planting half the amount of seed as the other two, so that also saves $$$.

All 3 have great advantages over traditional till, disc, seed, cultipack. Main advantages of the no till plantings is retaining soil moisture by not discing, increasing organic matter/ building topsoil, and decreasing soil erosion while at the same time decreasing soil compaction.

 

[DoubleRidge]

Agree...one of the biggest benefits is the thatch will hold moisture and improve soil quality year over year...also with less trips over the plot there is less compaction of the soil....as mentioned, this method works well with wheat, cereal rye and oats...but always increase your seed rate above recommendations.
Buckwheat also works well with throw-n-mow....we've even tried soybeans before and germination was acceptable but the plot wasnt big enough and once the deer found them they mowed them down so we went back in and top sowed cereal rye.

 

[Outdoor Enthusiast]

That's the 'throw and mow' method. Can work great of you double seeding rates and you don't have weeds or a lot of grasses that compete with fall crops.

The twist to kill competing weeds/ grasses is 'spray, throw, and mow'. You will get a better and cleaner plot. Still requires double the seeding rate.

The 'Buffalo system' was coined by Grant Woods. Basically terminate weeds with a crimper (simulating a herd of Buffalo trampling the standing vegetation to the ground) then drill (or drill, then crimp). No spray, no bushhog is the advantage. The other advantage is you are planting half the amount of seed as the other two, so that also saves $$$.

All 3 have great advantages over traditional till, disc, seed, cultipack. Main advantages of the no till plantings is retaining soil moisture by not discing, increasing organic matter/ building topsoil, and decreasing soil erosion while at the same time decreasing soil compaction.

For the spray, throw and mow method, what is the preferred chemical for spraying?

 

[DoubleRidge]

For the spray, throw and mow method, what is the preferred chemical for spraying?

We have used glysophate (round-up) and sprayed then sowed seed directly into standing thatch....then later mowing dead thatch over seed....also glysophate will not hurt the seed in any way.

 

[Outdoor Enthusiast]

We have used glysophate (round-up) and sprayed then sowed seed directly into standing thatch....then later mowing dead thatch over seed....also glysophate will not hurt the seed in any way.

What is the prefer timing for the spraying? Late summer?

 

[megalomaniac]

What is the prefer timing for the spraying? Late summer?

I have the best luck spraying about 2w before seeding. I use gly hot... 3q per acre of the 41% stuff plus surfactant.

But my usual plot prep is bushhog, wait 10 to 14d for a bit of new growth, then spray and drill immediately (or spray and pray for rain, but only drill before a rain)

 

[DoubleRidge]

What is the prefer timing for the spraying? Late summer?

Yes...for fall plots spray in late summer 7 to 10 days before seeding...then seed and mow dead thatch down and if the thatch isnt real tall or thick...in a hurry we have sowed seed into thatch and then sprayed same day. Then two weeks later everthing was brown and laying down naturally....but coming back and mowing gives it a cleaner look....there are many options and a ton of info online for the spray-throw-n-mow method...it works to generate forage for wildlife...bit it might not always look perfect....but it works....good luck with your project.

 

[WilcoKen]

oats...but always increase your seed rate above recommendations.

Yes I went heavy with the seed rate. I did not do fertilizer but am thinking 19-19-19. Should I?

 

[DoubleRidge]

Yes I went heavy with the seed rate. I did not do fertilizer but am thinking 19-19-19. Should I?

If you already have the fertilizer you could...but over time another benefit of throw-n-mow methods is not having to use as much fertilizer because allot of the nutrients are returned to the soil vs a crop that is harvested...so if your happy with how they are looking then no need to add the extra input cost...but again, if you already have it theres no harm in making a light application before a rain.

 

[DoubleRidge]

Another step for those who are doing throw-n-mow...if you have areas that are spotty or thin you can go back in and top sow wheat, oats or cereal rye just before a rain. Some of the seed will be washed through the thatch by the rain and some will just fall through.
And some people will top sow the entire plot just to have more growth at different stages.
Layering in seed at different times to get it thicker.

 

[Ski]

And some people will top sow the entire plot just to have more growth at different stages.
Layering in seed at different times to get it thicker.

I do that. I sprinkle seed all fall and winter. Wheat and rye are cheap and deer seem to prefer young growth. It germinates and grows pretty much anytime temp is above freezing.