- Location
- Germantown, TN (suburb of Memphis)
Decided to sell one of my S&W's that I rarely shoot. This is a model 19-5 pre-lock .357 mag with a 4" barrel. This is a nice pre-lock S&W, no MIM parts. The trigger and hammer are both case colored - smooth faced 0.312" combat trigger and 0.375" wide semi-target hammer spur. The model 19 is a K frame capable of shooting both .38 special and .357 magnum ammunition.
The serial is AVU-655x which according to my SWCA 4th edition books puts its birthday around 1986-1987 (grips are from 1987). The 19-6 version began in 1988, so I know it is before this. I picked this up during the Covid times and paid way too much for it, definitely losing money here and that is before all the time and materials I spent on it. It needed some TLC when I got it, the hammer nose rivet was loose and could be pushed out one side so I purchased a new one and properly flared it on both sides. The ejector rod was bent (it happens over time with revolvers, constantly opening and closing the cylinder) so a quick trip through my Power Custom measurement / straightening fixture got it running true. The hammer showed some marks on the right side from rubbing the frame, so I added the appropriate shims on either side of the hammer pin to center the hammer. You can see the shim(s) on the photo of the action with the side plate off. I installed a new Wilson Combat mainspring and trigger return spring kit, which along with polishing the rebound slide and the aforementioned hammer shims has the trigger pull weight at an incredibly smooth and light 7.3 lb average double action, and 2.0 lb single action measured with a Wheeler digital trigger pull gauge. No hammer push-off, the sear surfaces haven't been touched to achieve this pull weight. It is basically a Jerry Miculek race gun trigger pull. If you pull the trigger on this thing you will buy it on the spot, smoothest and lightest action of all the ones in my collection. It has been 100% reliable with my 38 special 158 grain reloads utilizing CCI primers, but you may want to put the factory main spring back in it if you plan on carrying this for self defense - it will bring the DA pull/hit up a few pounds (I haven't measured DA pull weight with original main spring, but can if you want me to).
I also worked on the checkered Target grips, tightening the fit and refinishing them. I stripped them, a light stain, then sprayed with ~10 coats of thinned Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil with a small airless sprayer. I kept a photo of the ad from FB when I purchased it, and took a photo of the grips while I was refinishing them. The Tru-Oil finish is easy to touch up if one ever damages the finish. I kept these grips glossy because I liked the look, but I can change to a satin finish by rubbing down liberally with Birchwood Casey stock sheen and conditioner. I have a set of grips that have been satin finished on another revolver that I can show you for comparison if desired.
While measuring the trigger pull today I also decided to check the barrel/cylinder gap measurement. The B/C gap measures 0.008". This is at the top end of allowable clearance per S&W specs (also called cylinder endshake) so I ordered a kit of 0.002" and 0.003" shims which should be here before Christmas. Ideally it should be between 0.004-0.006", I will set it at 0.004" unless the prospective buyer wants a thou or two more/less. Actually surprised I hadn't done this before, must have run out of shims at the time.
Here is a Link describing cylinder endshake for reference:
Larry Potterfield MidwayUSA "how to measure and correct cylinder endshake"
I currently have the serrated ramped front sight painted with an orange Sharpie paint pen just so I can pick up the front sight easier on the range. It can be cleaned off in less than 30 seconds if one chooses. There are a few marks on the revolver - a small rubbed spot on bottom of trigger guard (hard to photograph), typical but small rub marks right at the end of the barrel on each side (hard to photograph) and a scratch above the grip on the right side plate (I haven't tried to clean that up with any cold blue). I am posting a TON of photos (over 30) and will happily take more if there is something you want to see. There are some white cat hairs in a few of the photos, impossible to get them all but wife would be very upset if I got rid of the cat...
Price is $660. First posted "I'll take it" beats a private PM saying the same if I don't see the PM before the public post. I am not interested in shipping it, but will hold for however long is needed until you pick it up.
The serial is AVU-655x which according to my SWCA 4th edition books puts its birthday around 1986-1987 (grips are from 1987). The 19-6 version began in 1988, so I know it is before this. I picked this up during the Covid times and paid way too much for it, definitely losing money here and that is before all the time and materials I spent on it. It needed some TLC when I got it, the hammer nose rivet was loose and could be pushed out one side so I purchased a new one and properly flared it on both sides. The ejector rod was bent (it happens over time with revolvers, constantly opening and closing the cylinder) so a quick trip through my Power Custom measurement / straightening fixture got it running true. The hammer showed some marks on the right side from rubbing the frame, so I added the appropriate shims on either side of the hammer pin to center the hammer. You can see the shim(s) on the photo of the action with the side plate off. I installed a new Wilson Combat mainspring and trigger return spring kit, which along with polishing the rebound slide and the aforementioned hammer shims has the trigger pull weight at an incredibly smooth and light 7.3 lb average double action, and 2.0 lb single action measured with a Wheeler digital trigger pull gauge. No hammer push-off, the sear surfaces haven't been touched to achieve this pull weight. It is basically a Jerry Miculek race gun trigger pull. If you pull the trigger on this thing you will buy it on the spot, smoothest and lightest action of all the ones in my collection. It has been 100% reliable with my 38 special 158 grain reloads utilizing CCI primers, but you may want to put the factory main spring back in it if you plan on carrying this for self defense - it will bring the DA pull/hit up a few pounds (I haven't measured DA pull weight with original main spring, but can if you want me to).
I also worked on the checkered Target grips, tightening the fit and refinishing them. I stripped them, a light stain, then sprayed with ~10 coats of thinned Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil with a small airless sprayer. I kept a photo of the ad from FB when I purchased it, and took a photo of the grips while I was refinishing them. The Tru-Oil finish is easy to touch up if one ever damages the finish. I kept these grips glossy because I liked the look, but I can change to a satin finish by rubbing down liberally with Birchwood Casey stock sheen and conditioner. I have a set of grips that have been satin finished on another revolver that I can show you for comparison if desired.
While measuring the trigger pull today I also decided to check the barrel/cylinder gap measurement. The B/C gap measures 0.008". This is at the top end of allowable clearance per S&W specs (also called cylinder endshake) so I ordered a kit of 0.002" and 0.003" shims which should be here before Christmas. Ideally it should be between 0.004-0.006", I will set it at 0.004" unless the prospective buyer wants a thou or two more/less. Actually surprised I hadn't done this before, must have run out of shims at the time.
Here is a Link describing cylinder endshake for reference:
Larry Potterfield MidwayUSA "how to measure and correct cylinder endshake"
I currently have the serrated ramped front sight painted with an orange Sharpie paint pen just so I can pick up the front sight easier on the range. It can be cleaned off in less than 30 seconds if one chooses. There are a few marks on the revolver - a small rubbed spot on bottom of trigger guard (hard to photograph), typical but small rub marks right at the end of the barrel on each side (hard to photograph) and a scratch above the grip on the right side plate (I haven't tried to clean that up with any cold blue). I am posting a TON of photos (over 30) and will happily take more if there is something you want to see. There are some white cat hairs in a few of the photos, impossible to get them all but wife would be very upset if I got rid of the cat...
Price is $660. First posted "I'll take it" beats a private PM saying the same if I don't see the PM before the public post. I am not interested in shipping it, but will hold for however long is needed until you pick it up.
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