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Hack and squirt question

One more thing on the chemical and mix I mentioned. While probability of translocation in the soil is very low, if the roots of any very close NON target trees are grafted with your target species it could make your keeper trees sick…or worse. Better to just cut the target trees than spray'em.
 
For saplings and small trees that you would cut anyway, just cut them close to the ground and paint the stump liberally with undiluted 41% generic glyphosate. I've done this successfully on privet hedge, hardwoods, and even kudzu once you find the mail trunk. No mixing, just cut and paint.
 
I've all the mixes I've seen and tried for hack and squirt, I've had the best results with just using glysophate concentrate mixed 50/50 with water.
Same here. Some trees take longer than others and I've had to treat some bigger ones a second time. Sycamore seems to respond really quickly, river birch a little longer, and elms, gums of size quite a bit longer than that. Of course, some older elms just die spontaneously from I assume Dutch Elm disease.
I thought this topic was about that internet girl hawking, spittin, and squirtin again.
 
Related to this topic I just visited the spots I H&S about a year ago to remove sweet gum, beech and TOH. I also ran a fire thru a small portion (1.5 acres) and boy is there a drastic difference even though both spots are most mostly closed canopy.

Rx Fire
IMG_5727.webp


No Fire
IMG_5728.webp
 
EXCELLENT comparison pictures DPinTN. Love that kind of stuff.
Thanks Bryan. I was honestly blown away by the difference and didn't really expect much given the over story wasn't thinned. However I guess sunlight was able to get thru with just a reduction of midstory and removal of leaf litter. Already making plans to burn a few more areas ASAP.
 

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