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New boat...Final update!!!

Got the throttle and gear cables replaced Saturday. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be... maybe 1.5h to install the new ones replacing the prior ones that were seized up.

Got new batteries (remote battery and main 12v battery) and played with the trolling motor. Downloaded the manual, (as Im just used to operating $150 tiller steer trolling motors) Seems to work fine (it's a Minn Kota Riptide SP with ipilot), although there is a noticeable whine on low speed... (would love opinions whether this is normal or not)... gonna pull the prop and make sure there isn't fishing line wrapped in it... but that's for another day...

Had today off and had plans to service entire motor and begin on electrical system (NOTHING works currently... no bilge, lights, trim tabs). Motor isn't peeing well and will overheat, so need to pull lower unit and replace water impeller.

We literally spent 1.5 hours trying to get the nut that links the gear shift rod in upper motor to the gear selector in the lower unit removed. Just horrible corrosion in the middle of the nut. After more than 3 cusswords (but I didn't throw any tools) I got to the point where it was either cut the nut off or just crank on it till it broke or the shifter rods broke. Fortunately, the the threads in the nut broke and we pulled the lower unit. Time.for MAJOR celebration!!!
 

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Once the lower unit was removed, it was easy to replace the impeller and reinstall the lower unit (we recut the threads in that damn nut and put antiseize compound on the threads of the linkage bolts going into it during reinstallation so it went on with just fingers). Serviced the rest of the motor (new spark plugs, new oil and filter, new fuel pump, new water separator filter, new thermostat) then fired her up! She was pissing stronger than most 12yo boys could! Prior owner thought she probably need new carbs, but it was just the seized throttle cable that kept her from revving up.
 

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Ethan got the new cowling gasket installed, and we feel comfortable the motor and fuel system itself is ready for the water. Unfortunately, we spent so much time pulling the lower unit, we didn't feel like tackling the electrical system today...
 

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Unfortunately, I've discovered a new problem... the steering piston doesn't rotate when turning, allowing the bolt linking the motor to the steering piston to grind into the mounting plate. I have no idea how simple.or complicated this is going to be to fix, but will start cranking on some nuts and bolts later this week and see what happens when I start taking stuff apart
 

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If I can get the steering and wiring sorted out this week, I'm hopeful I may be able to dunk the boat in a freshwater lake this weekend to replace the trailer bunks and (fingers crossed...) get the trailer rewired and lights working. Im getting several reports from others that some folks are killing the reds the past few days
 
Keep posting this stuff. I'm really enjoying following your journey! Can't wait to see pictures of you and your son's first trip on the new vessel. It will be something he never forgets!

I'm not sure I understand the problem two posts above. Is it possible that it's working properly and your bolt is just too long? Tough to tell what I'm looking at from the picture.
 
Pilchard said:
Keep posting this stuff. I'm really enjoying following your journey! Can't wait to see pictures of you and your son's first trip on the new vessel. It will be something he never forgets!

I'm not sure I understand the problem two posts above. Is it possible that it's working properly and your bolt is just too long? Tough to tell what I'm looking at from the picture.
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I'm not really sure what I'm looking at either, nor how it is supposed to operate correctly. all I know is that if the motor is trimmed all the way down and you turn the steering wheel, the hydro piston rotates too far down and binds into the motor mount. I'm thinking the hydro steering piston itself is supposed to rotate with trimming/ tilting, as there are 2 grease zerks on the either side of the piston bar that are impossible to reach in its current configuration. I'll do some research on the internet/ you tube and see if I can figure out what it's supposed to look like.

and yes, I do think the gray piece of metal connecting the steering system to the motor is also bent... but I don't think thats the main problem...
 
Any of you guys have the Minn Kota Riptide SP ipilot TM??? I'm thinking its 55lb, but not sure. Def 12v system. The whine coming from the trolling motor itself on low speed normal? (Goes away on higher speeds). I don't see how I'm going to be able to sneak up on fish without poling if I can't get this issue resolved.

I also have concerns whether I will be able to get the hang of operating a TM remotely after using a tiller steer one forever... but if I can get the hang of it, it will be nice to be up on the poling platform in the back and control the trolling motor up front remotely.
 
Post a video if you can of the issue. I am having trouble visualizing what you are talking about.

I have had the ipilot you are talking about in 24v. Mine never made noise at low speeds. This might be a stupid question but is it out of the water when it's making the noise?
 
megalomaniac said:
Unfortunately, I've discovered a new problem... the steering piston doesn't rotate when turning, allowing the bolt linking the motor to the steering piston to grind into the mounting plate. I have no idea how simple.or complicated this is going to be to fix, but will start cranking on some nuts and bolts later this week and see what happens when I start taking stuff apart
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Is it possible that the metal "arm" coming in from the right side of the photo is upside down? If it were flipped the other way it would elevate it's position and may get rid of the drag of the bolt. Another option would be to try and just flip the bolt around so that the head is in the lower position with the excess bolt and nut on the topside instead of the bottomside.
 
Dbllunger said:
Is it possible that the metal "arm" coming in from the right side of the photo is upside down? If it were flipped the other way it would elevate it's position and may get rid of the drag of the bolt. Another option would be to try and just flip the bolt around so that the head is in the lower position with the excess bolt and nut on the topside instead of the bottomside.
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Def possible, I thought about doing that... but still wont' allow one to access the grease zerks. I think it's called a 'tilt tube' that contains the steering piston and is frozen and won't tilt. So far I've been able to find out about how to fix everything on youtube, just havent had time to look into this issue yet....

And these downloadable service manuals are pretty awesome.... $16 for the honda BF30 outboard motor. Gives you everything you need including torque specs on the all the screws!!!
 
Pilchard said:
Post a video if you can of the issue. I am having trouble visualizing what you are talking about.

I have had the ipilot you are talking about in 24v. Mine never made noise at low speeds. This might be a stupid question but is it out of the water when it's making the noise?
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yes, out of the water... I still haven't even launched this boat yet... really needed to get the fuel system and motor in top shape so I can test the throttle and response in the water. It revved up nicely yesterday in neutral, no hiccups whatsoever. I had the entire lower 1/2 of the motor submerged in a big 50g bucket... just for kicks, I put it into forward gear and it flung 5g out of the bucket and all over Ethan :).. prob shouldn't have done that!
 
So... I think this piston/ bar is supposed to freely rotate (the one held on thru the motor mount by the huge nut in the center of the picture). It's stuck BAD. have heated it, still stuck.

The steering mechanism is a Bay Star... if that means anything to you guys.
 

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talked to my buddy... there is no way to pull it... completely frozen. Will have to get new 'L' bars. Will need a shop to lift the motor to cut out/ knock out the frozen ones and replace. Piston is good, so I shouldn't have to replace the entire assembly, just the $80 tilt tubes
 
Pilchard said:
That's the steering bar. If you disconnect it from the hydraulic ram, that metal bar should pull right out of the motor from each side.
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yes already disconnected from the hydraulic ram, but steering bar is completely frozen and not removable by us... although I was thinking maybe a come-a-long might work to pull????
 

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