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Osage orange trees?

Theres plenty of them down around Cordell Hull lake. Finding one straight enough to make a bowstave out of is rare though. Turkey calls, not an issue! Whoever wants some for that, PM me and we will get you some pieces.
Shag may have a piece or 2 he MIGHT part with for a bowstave, he used to make them before he got into knives. LOL he also did chainsaw carving prior to knife making.
 
Huntaholic said:
Theres plenty of them down around Cordell Hull lake. Finding one straight enough to make a bowstave out of is rare though. Turkey calls, not an issue! Whoever wants some for that, PM me and we will get you some pieces.
Shag may have a piece or 2 he MIGHT part with for a bowstave, he used to make them before he got into knives. LOL he also did chainsaw carving prior to knife making.
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Yea that was my only issue with finding the rare one or two I've come across around Knox. None have been straight enough for the length I would need
 
Omega said:
In Clarksville, If you tell me what to look for I can see if there is anything suitable.
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I've never cut one before but from what I've seen basically a 4"+ diameter and 70" long trunk or limb that is relatively straight and has no twist in the bark. If the bark spins around it means the grain does too and that's not good for making a bow out of
 
GUNNERX2 said:
We were cutting one down at our duck club years ago and sparks were coming off the chain. Seemed like it took forever to cut down a 6" trunk.
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I have been cutting back on one, it's a twin, because it was trying to crush my shed, and I wore out some chain. Had to sharpen often, but I cut a bunch, there are two, three foot piles of stumps and branches, at least 20' of trunk plus associated branches.

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mountain chiro said:
I've never cut one before but from what I've seen basically a 4"+ diameter and 70" long trunk or limb that is relatively straight and has no twist in the bark. If the bark spins around it means the grain does too and that's not good for making a bow out of
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If possible, look for a couple of good trees that are in thicker woods. They'll have to compete for sunlight that way, and will grow longer trunk sections before having limbs sprouting.

Look for minimum bark twist, or "barber poling", that way the stave doesn't propeller and twist as much when you're splitting it. A clear, clean six foot trunk section is optimum for bows.

I prefer 12-16" diameter trees if I have a choice, but I'm happy to get whatever size that I can handle. Try for staves that are three inches wide across the bark. When you're splitting the log out for staves, use a thin axe like an Eastwing, or as thin a wedge as you can find, to start your splits. Some bowyers grind a "starter wedge" down just for that purpose, then alternate regular wedges down the length of the log, using your axe to gently clear interlocking grain and splinters.

If you try starting your split with a fat wedge, you can lose teeth when it bounces back toward your face.

As soon as you have a stack of staves, use some type of sealant on the ends. I prefer wood glue. That will keep the staves from end splitting, or "checking" as it's known. Find a place to stack them out of the weather and sun, with good air circulation.

A word to the wise. Keep them off the ground. Wood borers will eat them alive and ruin your hard work.
 
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