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Paper Tuning

Crappie Luck

Crappie Luck

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Have ya'll found it's better to paper tune with or without feathers?

I don't think I've tried it without feathers but it seems that would be better at >10 yrds. and tell a little more.

I'm fletching now and I think I'll leave one black for tuning

Am I screwing up for some reason?
 
it depends on what kind of setup you have, if you are just tuning your hunting bow then i would skip the bare shaft tuning, thats more for target archers. paper tune with fletching on is fine for a hunting setup. Of course if you wanna try it just remember when you add the weight of the fletching you will get a little lower nock tear compared to shooting the bare shaft.
 
I paper tune for my initial setup on my bow (with feathers) , then go to walk back and broadhead tuning to dial it in .
 
walk back tunning is all I really do. Paper just gets too nit picky and it is still hard to see what is actually happening.

All arrows oscilate coming out of a bow, you just want them to correct as soon as possible. I dont want to adjust for my arrow to be straight at a few feet when what i really care about is if it flies like a dart out to 60 yds.
 
Paper tuning can be a complex thing if you let it. I try to tune at about 5-6 feet then go 10 yards then to 20. If you get good tears at these ranges, the long distant flights are nailed. Also I shoot a switchback and Goldtip pro 55/75, had the same problem with th 75/95 lot. my bow is set at 68Lbs. When I went to the lighter arrow, the problem went away.. hope this helps.
 
I got my bow paper tuned a couple of weeks ago at the Dickson Sportsman Store. It is primarily a bow shop and they have some guys in there that know what they are talkin about. I was asking the main guy in there a few question about paper tuning. He said that you want to be about 3-4 yards away....which is relevant to 10 feet, which some of you all are saying. He also said that if the arrow is tilted slightly downward, that it is ok. You just dont want it tilted up, left, or right. And I would have my fletchings on. I always shoot with the EXACT same set-up as if I were hunting.
 
This is the way I tune my bow:
I take a bare shaft with a field point of the weight of my broadheads (100gr), put a couple of wraps of tape around the shaft where the feathers are normally to mimic the weight of the feathers and shoot into a styrofoam (sp) tarket at the same level as my bow. I then adjust the rest or nocking point until all I can see after shooting is the nock of the arrow.
I start out at about ten feet. When the arrow is hitting directly into the target, I move back to twenty feet and fine tune a bit more. I keep moving back about ten to fifteen feet until I am shooting at twenty yards.
The arrow should enter the target with the nock neither high, low, left or right.
Then I set my sights with a fletched arrow and field point. Then I switch to broadheads. I have never had any trouble with the field points and broadheads not hitting the same spot after tuning with the bare shaft. It's a lot of work but is worth the effort.
 
Broadhead group tuning works best for me , and is much easier than paper tuning that can give false readings on paper .
I had one issue with a nock point that was too low, yet the paper was showing a high tear . It was because the tail end of the arrow was rebounding off the rest and kicking the fletching end up .
 
Radar said:
Broadhead group tuning works best for me , and is much easier than paper tuning that can give false readings on paper .
Click to expand...

I agree 100% I quit paper tuning my bow. Broadhead tuning gives me all the info I need to hunt.
 

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