I used some plexi that I had laying around. Made slides for it[cut grooves in 2X4's or something else laying around]. So mine aren't sealed or anything. In the blind I just have openings. I actually leave the door open while hunting from the blind. Shot a nice 6pt through the doorway this year in MZ. Once the blinds have been there for a few years the deer pay em no mind if calm/quiet.
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Shooting houses (size and shapes)
- Thread starter AM84
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DoubleRidge
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Ours are open for now but we plan to build simple windows that hinge in.
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
I've been building shoot houses for 15 years, hav finally figured out the windows. This system is the simplest, quietest, and easiest to operate with 1 hand.
1/4 in plexiglass cut 1 in longer than the width if the window, and a quarter or half inch taller than the window. Simple hinges (have to be mounted offset with a spacer) to open and up on the inside.
Hand made rotating tabs on either side to lock the windows closed, and a rotating tab above the window when it opened to lock it open. (Made from scraps of the siding from the window cut outs.)
Pictures of from my builds this summer... window cut outs have been caulked, but shooting rail lining up flush to bottom edge of window (2x4) has not yet been installed.
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megalomaniac
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Oh, I like smaller windows. Mine are 23in x 8.5 in. 40in from platform floor to the bottom edge of window.
Small windows conceal movement inside much better, and less scent escaping when a window is opened to shoot.
Windows are kept closed during the hunt to contain scent, and only opened when getting ready for a shot. These windows are totally silent to open, quick to open, and can be easily operated with 1 hand.
Small windows conceal movement inside much better, and less scent escaping when a window is opened to shoot.
Windows are kept closed during the hunt to contain scent, and only opened when getting ready for a shot. These windows are totally silent to open, quick to open, and can be easily operated with 1 hand.
AM84
Well-Known Member
Good info. My plan is for windows and to keep them closed until time to shoot. I think I'm going to make my own similar to what you have. I will decide on the height for each window once I get my platform built and can get up there and sit and see how it looks in place. The land I will be hunting when in this has fields in 3 different and all are at quite different heights. The good news is turning the box blind the right way means I view each field form a different side. I imagine my windows might be a different height on each side due to that.
I used shed windows you can order on Amazon, but they've gone up in price quite a bit since I bought mine. They're nice, but can be loud when opening and require 2 hands, so they stay open for the duration of the hunt.
BSK
Well-Known Member
We were going to build 4 shooting houses. We priced out the lumber and the Sportsman's Condos ended up being cheaper. We bought 4.
clinchbilly
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clinchbilly
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My 2 cents.....use glass not plexiglass.
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
I just can't see that!
Here's all the lumber you need to build a 4x4... everything in the back of the truck to build one minus the tin for the roof, plexiglass for the windows, hardware and screws. Finished product in the second pic.
1 4x8 sheet 1/2 in pressure treated plywood for floor (save the other half for a 2nd house)
1 4x8 sheet of OSB for roof decking
4 4x8 sheets of t 111 siding
5 2x4s pressure treated for floor joists. and shooting rails
6 2x4s not pressure treated for wall joists and roof framing.
2 1x3s to reinforce and brace door
Total of about $225. Add another $30 in hardware, $60 for windows, $40 for tin, $5 for caulk, $5 for spray paint, and you can build the entire box for $365. I have scrap tin and windows for free, so my cost is $265.
To elevate... a set of 4 brackets for $60
4 4x4s
12 2x4s for cross bracing and ladder
Creosote post to anchor
Chain, turnbuckle, and s hooks
4 t posts for each leg.
About $400 to elevate the stand and have it secure enough to withstand 75mph winds.
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I have the pleasure of servicing and hunting from a variety of blinds both bought and built, my 2 cents worth are;
look at The redneck design for bow windows
Meg's window design for gun windows is similar to rednecks and work well
4x4 is cramped for a big man and forget archery
5x5 is convenient but not for guests
5x6 works well for a bow or a guest, both if the guest is small
6x6 will allow both a bow and a guest but the guest needs to help watch
rednecks 6x7 is a palace but you need a spotter and during the rut it can get crazy window to window
I like the bigger blinds in archery, I can dress dark, open the bow windows and stay back out of the light
With the built blinds use the metal to cover with the trim pieces to protect the windows, edges and corners. The added cost will add many years of service and minimal maintenance.
Look at the window awnings redneck offers, they reduce glare on windows, prevent rain from coming in the windows, make you less visible and help break up the outline.
OH and one other thing if you dont place it under a shade tree, insulate the roof.
look at The redneck design for bow windows
Meg's window design for gun windows is similar to rednecks and work well
4x4 is cramped for a big man and forget archery
5x5 is convenient but not for guests
5x6 works well for a bow or a guest, both if the guest is small
6x6 will allow both a bow and a guest but the guest needs to help watch
rednecks 6x7 is a palace but you need a spotter and during the rut it can get crazy window to window
I like the bigger blinds in archery, I can dress dark, open the bow windows and stay back out of the light
With the built blinds use the metal to cover with the trim pieces to protect the windows, edges and corners. The added cost will add many years of service and minimal maintenance.
Look at the window awnings redneck offers, they reduce glare on windows, prevent rain from coming in the windows, make you less visible and help break up the outline.
OH and one other thing if you dont place it under a shade tree, insulate the roof.
AM84
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply, all seems like good experienced advice! I plan (I think) to insulate the floor and the roof. Not sure about the walls. Also, I'm planning currently to use horse stall mats from TSC on top of my flooring to help keep the noise down and insulate a little as well.
Already was thinking about the little awnings over the windows like redneck uses and figure that will be part of my plan.
I'm over complicating this but would like it to be NICE and last a very long time.
Also, I'm thinking of going with shingles (or possibly the tar roofing stuff) for the roof instead of metal but I haven't made my mind up yet. That will dictate what kind of roof I build I guess.
Gobble4me757
Well-Known Member
I really enjoy this thread y'all. Love the opinions and all. I want to add though in the debate of build your own vs buying a pre-built one. I would add the cost for labor that you are missing out on. For example, if it takes me about 15 hours to build the thing...and I get paid if I were to take an extra shift X amount, is it worth it then? Sorry to somewhat hijack the thread but just something to consider...
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Metal over plywood with a layer of roofing felt will be quite like shingles, insulate well and should last 20 years
just my humble opinion
AM84
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You guys are great! Thanks so far for the ideas/opinions. I'm all ears for any others!
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I see your point but I can also see theirs, Its easier to lay out the time and effort, maybe sacrifice a little play time rather than the cash. I have the luxury of hunting from blinds of the people I work for but am considering a couple builds my self.
Omega
Well-Known Member
Yea, I'd avoid shingles, I did my first like a house roof, sheathing, tar paper, shingles etc, the new one is metal. Much less maintenance and since I went with the silver, it reflects the heat pretty good. I laid it on 1/2" pressure treated (PT) plywood with some wedge shaped PT 2x4s to angle it back to shed and capture rain via a gutter.
AM84
Well-Known Member
I'm weird in the sense that I will get as much, maybe more, enjoyment building it and working the land around it as I will hunting from it. It's all a process to me and it gets me outside and away from other distractions.
DoubleRidge
Well-Known Member
This is exactly what we did....osb sheathing with felt then metal...quiet and will last many years.
Also....worth noting....as a cost save...dont do metal over a purlin or lathe strip...not only is it louder but you can have issues with condensation and dripping on a cold frosty morning..
