You are technically correct but for my simple purposes it's the term that I use and I don't mean to mislead anybody. I'm not into benchrest shooting, turning necks, weighing each empty case, etc and getting too long in the tooth to get down in the weeds on the technicalities of it.
I hear good things about that range. I'd love to go shoot there too.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I haven't crimped any Hammers but maybe I should just to see what my rifles do.
It was very noticeable. Groups went from around .750 down to .250 and the SD dropped big time too.
That's very interesting. Don't recall which loading manual I read it in, but I seem to recall reading in one of the major manuals that crimping rounds after seating the bullet gave each round a more consistent starting point, which in turn tended to develop a more consistent pressure from round to round compared to relying on neck tension only, resulting in greater accuracy overall. Might be worth comparing crimped with non-crimped in groups of 10 rounds each, and running them over a chronograph while doing accuracy testing.
This is not much of a crimp, but just a little. I used the Lee Factory Crimp Die. They say to get the die set for about 1/4 turn of crimp.
I've never used a FCD, care to explain how you set it up to achieve the 1/4 turn crimp.
It's a really nice complex.
It really is. I go there often.
Takes a light touch, turn it until you feel it contact the brass, lower and give it a slight turn, mine is probably lower than 1/4 turn.
We may have even met up there unknowingly LOL
You set the die up the way their instructions say, but when you are setting the amount of crimp you want to turn it about 90 degrees. This gives you the 1/4 turn of crimp. It's barely even noticeable with your fingernail, but it really changed how mine shot.
