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Archery equipment prices

Rackseeker

Rackseeker

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I have been out of the compound bow game for probably 10 yrs now. Been wanting to get back into it , plan on going to Iowa this year or next. Love shooting 3-D. Been looking at all the new bows and accessories. I mostly shot Bowtech in the past and plan on shooting a few bows before buying one. But dang new bows and accessories are expensive. I know you don't have to have top of the line gear to kill a deer but I want to buy quality. And quality isn't cheap usually.
 
knightrider said:
Save yourself a ton of money and buy last years model that the fan boys will be trading in any day now!!!
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This is the way to go. Usually you can find a like new condition for 50% less than retail. With that said my go-to compound is a 2011 Bowtech Invasion. IMO that was the best hunting bow ever made…
 
You ain't kidding. $1300 is the new median price of a bare bow...and that's not even the flagship models. Unreal. Sights are $300-600. Those used to be target bow and sight prices. I picked up a used Mathews TRX 34 for target and was blown away by it. I'm currently looking for a black or slate colored one to hunt with!
 
As stated above used is the way to go. Had my 2014 Carbon Element tuned after new strings and cables and was holding a year old 2023 Rx7 for $1000 bucks…half the price of new.

Nope, I'll keep shooting CE Gen3 until it breaks. IMO one of Hoyt's best bows shoots like a dream.
 
it's outrageous. will cost you $2500 at minimum to outfit a new bow. i made the decision to keep my halon 32 and just keep shooting it because none of the new bows are any faster.
my plan is to throw a new sight on it and run back bar so it'll scratch that itch of a new bow.
if i'm you, i look at a bow thats a few years old, and just rig it up how you want to. will save you a good bit of money. it's not the arrow its the indian
 
WTNBowHunter said:
it's outrageous. will cost you $2500 at minimum to outfit a new bow. i made the decision to keep my halon 32 and just keep shooting it because none of the new bows are any faster.
my plan is to throw a new sight on it and run back bar so it'll scratch that itch of a new bow.
if i'm you, i look at a bow thats a few years old, and just rig it up how you want to. will save you a good bit of money. it's not the arrow its the indian
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Almost exactly my plans for this year with my Halon 6. Gonna do new string and a back bar and keep on trucking.
 
I used a back bar for 2 hunts and came to the conclusion that they are more of a PITA than they are worth for my style of hunting and I never gained more accuracy from it…but they sure do look good!
 
The big box stores usually carry ready to hunt bows that are not that expensive. They have a lot of the same technology that was on the premium bows of a few years ago. They may not come with the best sight or rest but enough to get started and into the sport.
 
tree_ghost said:
I used a back bar for 2 hunts and came to the conclusion that they are more of a PITA than they are worth for my style of hunting and I never gained more accuracy from it…but they sure do look good!
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Interesting. I've never used one but my bow naturally cants just a little bit and I have to be conscious of making sure I get it level before every shot. Hoping a back bar will level it out for me and just help to make my shot process simpler and more efficient.
 
bowhunterfanatic said:
Interesting. I've never used one but my bow naturally cants just a little bit and I have to be conscious of making sure I get it level before every shot. Hoping a back bar will level it out for me and just help to make my shot process simpler and more efficient.
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I put an offset front stabilizer on my halon 6 to eliminate the tilt.
 
I don't know if I can explain this right but a back bar can off set items like a sight or quiver but with newer sights/quivers going more inline and lighter materials this isn't much weight now and not fully what the bar is doing. What the bar does provide is a consistent torque or load on your hand to make each shot consistent and to prevent sudden movements. This is also why you need to get your bars set up first before tuning the bow. It will take getting use to and your body will learn the amount of pressure needed to naturally level the bow over time. When I first stared using a back bar I tried to perfectly balance the bow to where it didn't require any input which in turn made my groups worse because any little bit of torque would throw the shot off.

They also require a lot of tinkering with to get set up how you like and it is always a personal opinion on how much weight, angel,or length you like. How I have mine set up could be completely different from someone else shooting the same bow. So if you get one just get lots of weights and get a mount that provides fine adjustments then shoot lots of arrows to see which setting gives you the best groups.
 
tree_ghost said:
I used a back bar for 2 hunts and came to the conclusion that they are more of a PITA than they are worth for my style of hunting and I never gained more accuracy from it…but they sure do look good!
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KISS. You've killed a lion's share of big bucks. Let me ask you how many times you had time to breathe, settle the pin, and repeat some calming mantra in your head while slowly squeezing your shoulder blades for a surprise release?

If your experience is anything like mine then you are usually contorted, twisted, bent over, stretched, kneeling, scrunched up, or some combination. You get one very brief shot opportunity and you either lift, draw, and release in one fluid motion or else you draw & hold an indefinite amount of time waiting for just the right window. Actual hunting is absolutely nothing like range shooting. Groups don't matter. Robin Hood accuracy doesn't matter. One shot. No warm up. No do over.

IMO your equipment and practice should match your objective. If your objective is competing on the range then by all means equip yourself accordingly and practice for a competition of accuracy on a range. You'll want all the stabilization because fractions of an inch make all the difference. BUT if you're objective is hunting then equip yourself & practice for what you're actually going to experience on the hunt. Not only does all the extra accessory stuff not help but it very plausibly can be a hindrance.
 
Yep at this point, finding a bow that is a few yrs old is the best option. By now, any of the problems would be known and found with quick searches. Bearings constantly going bad in cams, limbs splitting, etc. You basically let everybody else be the guinea pigs and test monkeys 😆 Pick up one of the better ones and learn to work on stuff yourself. That's why I went with a TRX instead of the new Title. The difference in price between a used TRX and new Title...I was able to get a LCA bow press and bow vise for leveling everything.
 

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