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Food Plots Food plot prep?

lung-buster

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Joined
Sep 16, 2008
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Location
Southern Middle Tn
If im reading correctly some are broadcasting seed, spraying and then mowing? Not working the ground up and letting the seed get covered by the mowed vegetation? Seems the more I work up the ground I get twice the rocks to the surface.
 
If im reading correctly some are broadcasting seed, spraying and then mowing? Not working the ground up and letting the seed get covered by the mowed vegetation? Seems the more I work up the ground I get twice the rocks to the surface.
I had been tilling my rock fields that I call plots. Tilling makes a nice seed bed, knocks back grasses and weeds to the same position as the planted seed (germinating from seed), and allows much deeper moisture absorption. However, it also allows more soil erosion in heavy rains and allows soil moisture evaporation at an amazingly rapid rate. For these reasons, I've gone back to throw-and-mow, where I broadcast seed into the standing weeds or previous seasons crops, then mow everything down to produce a thatch over the seed, and then spray to kill whatever I mowed. This process reduces soil erosion, helps to build a soil profile over time, and will hold soil moisture much better.

Plus much easier planting and less damage to my tiller banging through the rocks.
 
If im reading correctly some are broadcasting seed, spraying and then mowing? Not working the ground up and letting the seed get covered by the mowed vegetation? Seems the more I work up the ground I get twice the rocks to the surface.
yes, correct.

#1 goal- get the seed down to soil level so it has a chance to germinate, then cover it with thatch to retain moisture and keep it growing.
 
The one thing to remember when using throw-and-mow is to overseed. This compensates for the lower germination rate of seeds thrown onto bare soil. Take whatever the recommended seeding rate for drilled seeds is and increase it by 50%.
 

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