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Lead sled

I was cruising the net and came across a comment on lead sleds, and it summed up their need quite well. They're for those that need tougher shoulders, or need smaller calibers.
lol, i have had more success using a sandbag when sighting in than using the lead sled. got the sled because it thought it would bring consistency when sighting in (i shoot a .300 win mag and a mossberg 835 so no shoulder or caliber issues...lol) may just be me but i can't get the thing to lock where i need it to when i sight in.
 
Back to the rifle rest. I sighted in two guns (30'06, 338 WIN Mag) last year with my son in law's Lead Sled. No problems! As for changing POI, I personally know of three animals last fall (antelope, deer and a cow elk) that would disagree with the change theory! And my son in law harvested 5 deer in W TN last year after sighting in with his Lead Sled. I recently bought a new Hydro Sled.
 
Back to the rifle rest. I sighted in two guns (30'06, 338 WIN Mag) last year with my son in law's Lead Sled. No problems! As for changing POI, I personally know of three animals last fall (antelope, deer and a cow elk) that would disagree with the change theory! And my son in law harvested 5 deer in W TN last year after sighting in with his Lead Sled. I recently bought a new Hydro Sled.
If you had an inch difference in using a sled and not, would you ever know the difference on game.
 
If you had an inch difference in using a sled and not, would you ever know the difference on game.
For me, yes. I do neck shots, 1" either direction will be noticed.

I use lead shot filled bags to absorb the recoil and I don't actually lock it down. And for the record, I'm talking about range use for the sled, not on the hunt.
 
Many years ago I was at the gun range, A guy had a sled and was going to sight in a new 7 mag for a elk hunt, said he reloded ect, about 2-3 shots in the base mount screws sheard off, he said that was the 3rd set to do that. I had no idea at that time why, I now would guess it was the sled or his load or a combo. Trying to sight in a Mossburg with sabots is about the only time I have hurt, I would now use the open sites as the hurt overrides the accuracy want lol
 
Many years ago I was at the gun range, A guy had a sled and was going to sight in a new 7 mag for a elk hunt, said he reloded ect, about 2-3 shots in the base mount screws sheard off, he said that was the 3rd set to do that. I had no idea at that time why, I now would guess it was the sled or his load or a combo. Trying to sight in a Mossburg with sabots is about the only time I have hurt, I would now use the open sites as the hurt overrides the accuracy want lol
All of that recoil energy has to go somehwere. It is designed to be absorbed by a shoulder. If there is no absorption, the energy will wreak havoc on things like base screws, optics and stock wrists. Not to mention, it is nearly impossible to get into the same position on the gun in the field as you do in a sled. Probably not a huge deal inside 200 yards but at 500 yards, a 1 MOA change is 5 inches. Very easily could be the difference between a good shot and a gut shot or miss.
 
All of that recoil energy has to go somehwere. It is designed to be absorbed by a shoulder. If there is no absorption, the energy will wreak havoc on things like base screws, optics and stock wrists. Not to mention, it is nearly impossible to get into the same position on the gun in the field as you do in a sled. Probably not a huge deal inside 200 yards but at 500 yards, a 1 MOA change is 5 inches. Very easily could be the difference between a good shot and a gut shot or miss.
The best thing to use to weigh down a sled is lead shot, second is sand, not steel plates. The recoil goes into the bags and disipates, much like Kevlar does to a bullet. If a rifle is zeroed properly the minor change of body position will make little difference. Unless the sled is screwed down, and you shoot hundreds of rounds on it with the same rifle it should not hurt the rifle or its components in the least, if it does, those components shouldn't be on that rifle in the first place.
 
The best thing to use to weigh down a sled is lead shot, second is sand, not steel plates. The recoil goes into the bags and disipates, much like Kevlar does to a bullet. If a rifle is zeroed properly the minor change of body position will make little difference. Unless the sled is screwed down, and you shoot hundreds of rounds on it with the same rifle it should not hurt the rifle or its components in the least, if it does, those components shouldn't be on that rifle in the first place.
Why not just use sandbags? A rifle is only as good as the shooter.

I will agree on not using subpar components. But most people tend to recommend them.
 
I've never understood the lead sled idea. I can't imagine using a rifle I couldn't set on bag or a bipod and shoot enough to zero it. I can't imagine hunting with a rifle that I was afraid to sit down on a set of bags and shoot.


I've used a front and rear bag on everything up through a .458 win mag.
 
Why not just use sandbags? A rifle is only as good as the shooter.

I will agree on not using subpar components. But most people tend to recommend them.
A sled takes the the human element out of it. Once you're zeroed, take it out the sled and shoot like normal.
I've never understood the lead sled idea. I can't imagine using a rifle I couldn't set on bag or a bipod and shoot enough to zero it. I can't imagine hunting with a rifle that I was afraid to sit down on a set of bags and shoot.


I've used a front and rear bag on everything up through a .458 win mag.
It's a tool, once zeroed you use it like normal. It's no different than using levels to mount your scope vs peering down the bore.
 
A sled takes the the human element out of it. Once you're zeroed, take it out the sled and shoot like normal.

It's a tool, once zeroed you use it like normal. It's no different than using levels to mount your scope vs peering down the bore.


I see it different than levels. Levels don't take out human elements they align everything so that your tracking is true after checking on a plumb bob.

Bore sighting gets you on paper, not zeroed.


The guys I see use lead sleds shoot some big hammer of a cartridge, for knockdown paaaar! that kicks the hell out of them and they can't stand to shoot it. So they shoot a few through a lead sled, call it zeroed and then they're off to kill elk at 1000yds or gut shoot a few deer at 40yds because they flinch.


If used for a quick sightin and then someone finishes tuning it with them behind the rifle I can see them being ok for that. I've just never seen them used that way.

My input on my rifles affects how they shoot so I shoot them like I use them and I'm not packing a lead sled through the woods.
 
I see it different than levels. Levels don't take out human elements they align everything so that your tracking is true after checking on a plumb bob.

Bore sighting gets you on paper, not zeroed.


The guys I see use lead sleds shoot some big hammer of a cartridge, for knockdown paaaar! that kicks the hell out of them and they can't stand to shoot it. So they shoot a few through a lead sled, call it zeroed and then they're off to kill elk at 1000yds or gut shoot a few deer at 40yds because they flinch.


If used for a quick sightin and then someone finishes tuning it with them behind the rifle I can see them being ok for that. I've just never seen them used that way.

My input on my rifles affects how they shoot so I shoot them like I use them and I'm not packing a lead sled through the woods.
It's a tool, like any tool it can be misused. I zero with a sled, then shoot off the sled to reintroduce the human element. If the POI has moved, it's not the rifle. If I'm going to the range to confirm zero, I don't use a sled, same when I'm plinking. If I'm spending the $ for a trip out west, I'm putting more than a few rounds down range, off the sled.
 
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