Sounds like a path we are headed down. We have fuels on the ground, our logging was pines, but we haven't gotten all of our firebreaks done and have some areas the biologist said we will probably have to do some spraying before it's go time. Super cool stuff!
I'm following Mule deer's process as well. I have about 30 acres of 4-year-old regrowth I want to kick back to year zero. I suspect we will aerially spray first, then maybe burn (fire breaks are going to be the problem). The question will be, when is the best time to spray, spring or fall?
Spray late spring, early summer. Watch the weather and burn on a day with with relative low humidity during the summer after everything is dead. Not if it's been very dry though. That'll almost eliminate any spotting or burn over worries. If you do get a burn over it'll be easy to knock out and won't get away from you.
That is my primary concern. My burn areas are not easy to get to or around. They are on very steep terrain with virtually no access. Catching a fire that's jumped a line would be difficult.
My biggest concern with a summer fire would be that these areas are our primary fawn-rearing areas, as well as turkey nesting areas.
I'd spray June through August when the trees are most active. I'd probably go with with triclopyr (doesn't kill grasses) or glyphosate and just start from scratch. Imazapyr kills hardwoods and lets a lot of good forbs slide by but won't kill blackberries. I'd figure on 2 growing seasons post spray before you have a good grassy fuel base to carry through. The dead saplings are gonna come a little at a time. It won't be an explosive California wildfire like you might think.
First of all, why are you worried about turkeys? You hate them.
Do you remember ballpark what that cost?
I've heard turkeys gobbling 100 yards away while setting a blaze
Drones are getting pretty common as well. They don't need nearly as good a pad as a helicopter either
If it's open hardwoods, fire lines are easier than you'd think. I bought the most powerful backpack blower they make (Echo) and a 6-10' firebreak down to the dirt is fast and easy. We already had ridgetop roads, but got a dozer in and created hollow roads not just for better access, but also fire breaks. I also walk these roads with the blower. On steep hillsides, I'll walk down blowing to the bottom, then just have to walk up the other side. I blew a 7 acre unit perimeter last year in about 30-45 minutes.
For sure. I just wonder what their limit is on acreage.
I can't remember what price they told me to expect on our place but it was surprisingly low per acre.
Unfortunately, the edges of these areas are not open hardwoods. Sunlight has made it under the canopy around the timber-thinned (heavily thinned) areas and we now have chest-high brambles mixed in with the hardwoods probably 30 yards back from the edges. And I really, REALLY do not want to damage any of the mature oaks around the edges of the cuts, as that would kill our ridge-top oaks we use to draw deer up onto the easily hunted ridge-lines (in a good acorn year).If it's open hardwoods, fire lines are easier than you'd think. I bought the most powerful backpack blower they make (Echo) and a 6-10' firebreak down to the dirt is fast and easy. We already had ridgetop roads, but got a dozer in and created hollow roads not just for better access, but also fire breaks. I also walk these roads with the blower. On steep hillsides, I'll walk down blowing to the bottom, then just have to walk up the other side. I blew a 7 acre unit perimeter last year in about 30-45 minutes.
Basically, if I didn't have a good backpack blower, I wouldn't be getting much (any) burning done
Not yet. I'm hoping to get our local NRCS guy to take a look.
